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January 23rd, 2015, 10:59 AM   #11
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Seat hole works just aswell as seat off, tried it today.
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January 23rd, 2015, 11:20 AM   #12
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Good to know will have to find myself a spare seat
funny they said to me it made no difference seat on/of on dyno
Maybe with the seat of an new piston etc I will hit the "magic" 65hp number on the rear if I get it mapped perfectly
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January 23rd, 2015, 12:12 PM   #13
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Yes, once you are in the AFR sweetspot the seat off isnt enough to throw it off line. Without a longer duration cam it will be difficult to hit 65 if oem is 52.
With a cam I think 66-67 is possble, 70 seems far fetched.
Already at current state its 20% better than oem plus the range is way wider, now oem is made to do well in the trails, anyhow it will be quite hard to reach 70, upper 60s is plausible though, SAE corrected.

Had a go repairing the exhaust today, done, and then did a few more pulls and it popped another hole, tear down AGAIN and weld AGAIN its finally together now though, ready for riding, exhausted but happy. Waiting for track info, its rather difficult to tell as it has been snowing a lot here, but seriosly cold, usually means a track will be open this weekend, Ill try and get a gopro on.
Sunday one of the big tracks is open and I can try my ride to the quickest in the series, should be interesting to see where it stands. Possibly heats as Im one of the best with starts, let you know.
Thanks from bushmechanic and jon andersson

Last edited by TomTom; January 23rd, 2015 at 12:48 PM.
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January 23rd, 2015, 01:19 PM   #14
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Jeez mate you're not having a real good time with that bung. What are you welding with? I just blasted mine on with a MIG, too easy, didnt leak and holding up well.

Good luck with the racing, keen to see some footage of this animal in action!
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January 23rd, 2015, 02:20 PM   #15
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Needs TIG imo, I said this morning life is too good, and Im expecting a comet in my head by saying that, and It soon was to be true, but my will to ride was stronger so I won the battle, stupidly stubborn personality

Last edited by TomTom; January 23rd, 2015 at 02:31 PM.
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January 23rd, 2015, 11:50 PM   #16
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No one on this site have ever made 70hp on the rear (with stock displacement).
Make's bike got to 69 on the rear wheel with the throttlebody from fp engineering and the bike was still building power if you see the dyno sheet but ran out of revs with stock ecu/rev limit.
On the downside below 6000rpm bike loses power with that huge tb but above it's animal
My last run was just below 63 hp so not to far of 65 with freshly rebuild engine some small mods I woud say 65 is possible with stock cam I also got the full fmf system/dna filter.

There is no bung on my fmf is that necessary to get accurate a/f readings?
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January 24th, 2015, 12:09 AM   #17
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Just had a good look to your dyno sheet vs mine and our bikes are pretty similar from 6-8500rpm almost exactly the same...
But the guy on the dyno closed the throttle when he felt the bike stopped building power at +- 8700rpm maybe it would keep above 60 hp for another couple of hundred revs not sure but I never feel the need to rev it to or above 9....

Interesting our bikes are pretty different (mod wise) but power is almost identical.
2 things your bike have that I don't is perfect mapping cp piston.
I spend 900 on fmf system and than some on the dna filter but still stock piston don't know why but don't like the idea to have a high compression piston on my bike for a couple of reasons:
-Faster wearing (I got 230+ hours on the stock one and still looks like new)
-I have heard you lose power on lower rpms???
-The stock piston is reasonably lighter in weight so less stress on other components/bearings.
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January 24th, 2015, 03:51 AM   #18
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Hp number isnt too interesting, too many things will affect the number, it may just aswell be shoestrings or camels
The shape of the output is interesting though, and I wouldnt mind having the engine keep the tq higher up, as its now you can feel it fall off, heaps better than stock though, but that is the final thing Id like to adjust before Id call it complete. I like the quiet oem exhaust and just the throaty roar of the intake, not sure if Im missing out there, dont think it will be much.

High compression does not make anything worse unless you do crazy figures, the efficiency comes up with higher combustion temperature. I did take out material from the chamber so static compression is around 13:1, which isnt too drastic, and the actual pressure running the engine is much determined by when the intake valve closes and with the oem cam at 115 centerline its not very early, so no worries about reliability or using pump gas ime.

A welded bung is preferred, you could read it by sticking a copper pipe into the outlet and suck the fumes out too, but a lot messier and possible contamination with fresh air scewing your readings, plus readings will be severly delayed.

For now I will just ride it, too much wrenching with no riding and you get nuts
Looking good for tomorrow, forecast says -3 and sunny, fingers and toes crossed!
Thanks from bushmechanic

Last edited by TomTom; January 24th, 2015 at 04:23 AM.
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January 24th, 2015, 04:06 AM   #19
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if you look closely you can see bits of my riding boots in that pic


Originally Posted by berglsmerg View Post
Jeez mate you're not having a real good time with that bung. What are you welding with? I just blasted mine on with a MIG, too easy, didnt leak and holding up well.

Good luck with the racing, keen to see some footage of this animal in action!
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January 24th, 2015, 04:12 AM   #20
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Was wondering what those stains were
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