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November 17th, 2014, 04:55 AM   #31
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Hi

Were do you have the radiator cap ? Can't find it

Why don't you make another Y on the bottom were you have the rubber hose ? that would be the most equal between sides.


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November 17th, 2014, 11:52 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by zaga View Post
Hi

Were do you have the radiator cap ? Can't find it

Why don't you make another Y on the bottom were you have the rubber hose ? that would be the most equal between sides.


ZAGA
No, I was asking you guys if you had any bright ideas on the necessity of an expansion vessel, where to connect it and where to place the filler neck!

If the return flow from both coolers gather in the same tank, that will be close enough for me.
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November 19th, 2014, 09:22 AM   #33
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Dr_C i guess the linear outside has the same dimensions with the OEM, the bore is safe to oversized at 102mm??? What's your opinion?
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November 20th, 2014, 04:55 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by johnyberg View Post
Dr_C i guess the linear outside has the same dimensions with the OEM, the bore is safe to oversized at 102mm??? What's your opinion?
Hm. I have limited experience with std bikes and "normal" use, so I might not be the best person to ask about this... BUT, I think that the alu-liner is a bit weak already as it is. Bare in mind that it has limited support from the cylinder/casing where the piston to wall forces are high. If you are planning on staying below, say 65 RWHP, I think 1 mm less thick liner is doable. It might lead to higher blow-by and piston wear, but I do not think the liner will crack.

I'm using a 104 mm steel liner with some +80 RWHP at 8800 rpm, still trying to find the optimum piston clearance! Yesterday I got a liner back from "honing" with 0,12-0,13mm clearance. So, we'll see how that turns out!
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November 20th, 2014, 05:38 AM   #35
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Dr_C i will use steel liner for my project, 102mm inside and stock diameter outside. I think it can handle the load... 0.12-0,13 clearence is what i will use, it's a good starting point.
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November 30th, 2014, 12:02 PM   #36
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Am I the last one adjusting the pressure in the oil system? A 3 mm thick distance made pressure go up from about 0,8 bar to 1,5 bar. A hope that is enough to keep pressure up even after I enlarge both nozzles into my cams.

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November 30th, 2014, 02:13 PM   #37
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cool Dr C

i tested the cracking pressure of my relief valve with air to be 35psi



in use it is only 25Psi, 20psi with thin oil

I have an additional 1mm diam jet feeding oil to the drive side main and a 15mm wide oil pump. the counterbalancer oiling hole in the 80mm crank is welded closed

this is with 3lbs force on the ball from a stiffer spring

not sure if that is useful information

I think with the stock spring you can't really add too much preload, bergsmlerg reckons id have to weld the hole shut
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Last edited by bushmechanic; December 4th, 2014 at 01:38 AM.
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December 7th, 2014, 10:28 AM   #38
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Bushie! Have you tried to run the oil pump only (with a separate motor/drill) and measure flow to different consumers?

http://open.spotify.com/track/4C2fObwevUwxhfzAq6JtcD
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December 7th, 2014, 03:30 PM   #39
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ha!

no i wanted to do the drill powered oil fun park but i wanted to ride more... LOL

ive seen a video somewhere of a ktm rfs engine inside a plastic storage crate with the oil pump being run by a drill .. fantastic
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December 14th, 2014, 01:57 AM   #40
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The engine is slowly coming together again! I'm planning on test start during the christmas holidays!

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