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May 22nd, 2015, 01:18 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
I convert everything to roller on the 650s so I throw these rings away. I'll send you one straight away and then at least you have it infront of you as an option.
Taffy
What rings are you talking about, Taffy? The rings I'm referring to are the inner rings of the roller bearing, with the shroud/edge that take a small axial load. Both times I have tried to use roller bearings, that edge has been damaged and pieces have gave large secondary damages. I have installed them with appr. 0,8mm axial play.

Originally Posted by makazica View Post
Mats, have you ever received a Nobels prize for your accomplishments in engineering? Have you worked for Husaberg or any other major (minor) motorcycle manufacturer? Would you donate a piece of your brain to me?

(To all) How come you choose Husaberg engines for your projects/experiments? Do you consider them superior, a good basis, easy to work on, inexpensive?
Yeah I know! No Nobel prize for me! What a scandal for the committee! I mean, the prize for having made the most mistakes, on one single engine type, should have been mine years ago!

I actually got a request from Husaberg back in 2005 for a billet cylinder head. They wanted to investigate if there was an advantage with moving the valves further away from the spark plug (!). I had by then tried to reposition the valves with larger diameter valve guides. As the castings had too little material at the location of the valve seats, they could not be repositioned without welding. The guides lost their press fit and welding the head made it soft and loosing press fit of the seats. I told Husaberg that the only way was to make a new castings or mill out a head completely. So I registered a company and presented them with an offer of a billet head, which apparently was too steep for them (2000 for a complete head). Then they contacted a tuning company in Stockholm area to do the same welding exercise. I heard nothing from the result of that attempt...

Donating a piece of my brain? I fear scientists are standing in line already, but for much different reasons...

I choose Husaberg because of it being very light weight with high level of tuning from the start. And, Yes, patriotism naturally played a part! i mean, the original design was made by Mr Lars Nilsson at FOLAN, which was 12km from where I live. Lot's of skilled people withing motor design, tuning and manufacturing are clustered within a 40km radius, so that network is very valuable to me. Did I mention my machinists brother in law designs components for Koenigsegg, and my machinist manufactures them! Koenigseggs engine mechanic is doing my dynoing. My old neighbour used to be responsible for production line at Koenigsegg. I have welded som alu pipe work for the AC plumbing in a Koenigsegg, so I'm "surrounded"!
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May 22nd, 2015, 05:31 PM   #142
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he means an extra small thin collar tightened between the primary gear and the drive side ball bearing as used by dave clarke racing in the UK

#83 is a factory KTM crate engine NTN TMB ball bearing, while a roller is used on the other side of the crank

the new collar goes where #77 is currently and the seal #77 is replaced by another seal with a larger ID.

it stops the crank from moving axially unless the ball bearing moves in the case

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May 22nd, 2015, 10:04 PM   #143
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Ok! The curve ball was expressing that the ring was "thrown away". I figured that there is nothing in an OEM engine to throw away!

I will put my engine together today with ball bearings, because then I now the replacement interval (5-6 hours). Any other bearing set up may have a longer or shorter replacement interval, but it is unknown at the moment. Since the consequences of a bearing break down are tough (lost race and maybe expensive secondary damages), this is not the time to experiment. I rather tear the engine apart after each race (1,5-2h), than exposing myself to the risk of a bearing break down.

After season (late September) I will consider making a new crank. It will be without CB with a thicker left cheek. The right side cheek will have two bearings. The extra one will be positioned in the flywheel compartment, mounted in a cage that replaces the flywheel cover. I'm not using the flywheel anyway so... Thats the easier way for my to make the mains last a little longer, but it doesn't make the big end any better. Then we are talking solid crank, billet cases, larger diameter primary gear and a split rod.
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May 22nd, 2015, 11:04 PM   #144
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yes please Dr_C !

and while we are making requests to the engine building factory Ill add a hayabusa gearbox to my personal edition

edit: what axial play are you running with the balls ? I would use 1.5mm
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Last edited by bushmechanic; May 23rd, 2015 at 01:23 AM.
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May 22nd, 2015, 11:25 PM   #145
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Hi Bushie,

F1 gearboxes run gears as thin as 5mm up to 12mm for the higher loaded low ratios, just need good materials. A lot lighter and compact that way.
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May 22nd, 2015, 11:45 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
Mats, are you using a ring on the crank to pull the crank to the left? you know, the ring is in the left cover and the nut tightens the gear onto the ring which is butted against the main bearing?

Taffy
it is a bit like this Mats:


this is the oil seal, with a 38mm ID and not the usual 30mm.


if your crank flexes, the ball, able to run 'free' in the middle of the trench, able to wollow and weave has it's best chance with this set up.

regards

Taffy

Last edited by Taffy; May 22nd, 2015 at 11:48 PM.
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May 23rd, 2015, 01:26 AM   #147
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Originally Posted by spanner View Post
Hi Bushie,

F1 gearboxes run gears as thin as 5mm up to 12mm for the higher loaded low ratios, just need good materials. A lot lighter and compact that way.
Thumpers work with an uneven speed of rotation of the crank. This is very different from multi-cylinder engines, where there are far more acceleration pulses (from the combustion stroke) along 2 revolutions of the crank. This rough pulsation easily breaks the oil film between the teeth in the engaged pair of gears. If the oil film breaks, there is a great risk of pitting damages. Because of this, a thumper calls for much wider (and/or larger dia) gears than a multi-cylinder engine. It's all about the surface pressure in the thin contact line!
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May 23rd, 2015, 02:20 AM   #148
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I think that the secret is in the material,
I read up about the gear drives in helicopters in testing they have
to be able to run dry for something like 20 hours without failure, the steel
used is something like $200 a kilo not like your regular $10 a kilo
case hardened steel found in the Husaberg box.
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May 23rd, 2015, 02:25 AM   #149
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Ah! You are talking about Unobtainium!
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May 23rd, 2015, 02:26 AM   #150
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It is obtainable but unaffordable.
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