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May 16th, 2015, 04:01 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by Dr_C View Post
The Multi Layer Steel (MLS) gasket is allready in place on the photo. I glued the cotton sewing threads on top of it.

However, all efforts were thrown away when the right side case cracked after 4 laps. Propably because the right main bearing seized. Fun. Indeed.

Attachment 4940
very sorry for you

it look's more like vibrations crack , rather than effort crack , dont you think ?



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May 17th, 2015, 03:24 AM   #122
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Seems like the right hand side main bearing got fed up with the abuse...

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May 17th, 2015, 04:00 AM   #123
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Now when you say it it do look a bit tired.

Any theories why or just shit happens?
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May 17th, 2015, 07:57 AM   #124
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Sad state of affairs indeed.

Tons of effort for such a catastrophic fail, big HP is tough on parts!

Main bearing short comings were why I switched to the 70 degree motor, bigger main seem to handle the abuse better. Before my Berg I had an RFS motor that I way built for HP and had an appetite for mains. Never blew one like that but they would be noise and junk and would require frequent changes.
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May 17th, 2015, 03:23 PM   #125
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Time to go roller?
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May 17th, 2015, 08:12 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by spanner View Post
Time to go roller?
Been there. The shroud of the inner ring got torn off (angular problem due to crank spread) and the debris destroyed both liner and piston before I noticed the damage. I figured that ball bearings would give me a heads up and not throw debris around. I was wrong about that. For this season it will be ball bearings and 5-6 hours replacement interval.
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May 17th, 2015, 09:47 PM   #127
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nasty pics .... have you tried something like 1.5 - 2 mm axial crank play ?
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May 17th, 2015, 11:32 PM   #128
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Mats

are you using a ring on the crank to pull the crank to the left? you know, the ring is in the left cover and the nut tightens the gear onto the ring which is butted against the main bearing?

I don't think the balls can take it full stop. I think you're waisting your time persevering with them, they can't give you any axial float and it is clear the rollers need 0.6mm anyway. so the balls are wandering around in their races.

the balls can't give that. the trouble with the rollers is that their maximum rev ceiling is below your redline.

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May 18th, 2015, 12:33 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by bushmechanic View Post
nasty pics .... have you tried something like 1.5 - 2 mm axial crank play ?
No, not that much. Before RST* I used ball bearings with some 0,4-0,6 mm axial play, without any problems. I also tried rollers with 0,8 mm axial play, but as I mentioned the inner ring shroud was knocked off, causing a lot of damages, also to the counter balancer. My cranks didn't have the better support for the inner ring as they had from ... 2005 (?). Whats your track record with that large axial play? Can the crank use that play?
* RST - Ridiculous State of Tuning

Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
Mats

are you using a ring on the crank to pull the crank to the left? you know, the ring is in the left cover and the nut tightens the gear onto the ring which is butted against the main bearing?

I don't think the balls can take it full stop. I think you're waisting your time persevering with them, they can't give you any axial float and it is clear the rollers need 0.6mm anyway. so the balls are wandering around in their races.

the balls can't give that. the trouble with the rollers is that their maximum rev ceiling is below your redline.

Taffy
No, I do not fixate the crank around the left bearing. My english skills are not very good. What do you mean with: "I don't think the balls can take it full stop"?
No, I cannot go on with ball bearings and that is not my intention either. But they will have to do for this season. Then we will see if I will continue this development, or feed the pigeons. A solid crank, angular contact ball bearings (Ducati-style with prepress), tall 2-piece conrod, 6-speed gear box, billet cases and a dry clutch makes my mouth water...
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May 18th, 2015, 07:10 PM   #130
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RST !

ive used 1mm axial play with no problems on the 105mm piston, generally max rpm is 9k but according to my data logger ive done 10k a few times LOL, crank is heavier than stock, roller bearings showed less wear than with 0.8mm axial play

I would think that 1.5mm axial play may not be used but that is just a 50/50 guess, if there was time to experiment and i had an RST engine I would try no CB replaced with a really nice supporting spacer for a 20mm wide 2206 NJ roller, and a NTN NJ206 roller on the other side and 1.2mm axial play minimum.

currently in the 700 I run a 22206 spherical roller on the drive side and an NTN nj206 on the ign side with 0.8mm float .. looked all good at 25 hrs hard labour (i broke another gear LOL)

what were contimans conclusions with his spherical rollers and 710 cc RST on an 82mm crank ? i think his tiny pin welds cracked IIRC

In my 628 i run 22206 spherical rollers with 0.1mm axial play, pin welded really really solid .. big er70s2 fillet all the way around, crank is very light and it sees 10K regularly .. all ok @55 hrs but ive not looked inside

there is absolutely no point in a husaberg in locking the crank to one side with a ball on the drive IMHO, there just isn't enough room axially to warrant locking it, honda does that with a ball one side and a roller the other but the purpose of locking it to one side is to stop the crank flapping around axially as they are set with nearly 3mm "axial play" (should you remove the retaining collar and move the crank side to side to measure it) if you could achieve the 2-3mm axial gap that honda does it would be a nice finishing touch but at floats up to 1- 1.5mm i think it is not needed.

the engine you describe is a beautiful concept Dr_C! i have dreamed up many combinations of parts to acheive the same but with ony a MST looking forward to pictures of the build ... not pictures of pigeons
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