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July 29th, 2014, 03:28 AM   #41
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heres a bushmechanic tool I made years ago when I had absolutely no spare money



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July 29th, 2014, 03:34 AM   #42
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machined valve spring seats deeper to get 65lbs seated force from the KTM dual valve springs, and faced off the upper surface of the head parallel to the cam bearing tunnel, also faced off the rocker cover parallel to the rocker arm pivots



0.75mm thick tapered spacer shell held in with brass rivets and bog, bolted together and re bored the tunnel 0.75mm higher up



made some room for serious head studs



with the top surface of the head properly parallel to the cam and the rocker arm pivots I had to face off the lower head surface parallel to the upper surface to make the cam come out parallel to the intermediate shaft


Last edited by bushmechanic; July 29th, 2014 at 03:36 AM.
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July 29th, 2014, 03:49 AM   #43
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Pmsl....
No wonder why i can't find g clamp ...
Classic valve spring compressor
I like it !!
Thanks from bushmechanic
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July 30th, 2014, 03:09 AM   #44
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cut valve pockets with a valve

cam nicely timed itself slightly advanced with the cam lifted

needed a bit more piston to valve clearance, could have done another job in the mill but thought id show how it works with a fly cutter made from a valve.



cutter made from welding a blob onto an old valve and grinding some edges on it



i used a few spacers at the top to limit the cut depth to 0.2mm at a time



few more pics etc of other tools

Originally Posted by bushmechanic
this idea was shown to me by contiman

its no different in principle to setting the piston on an angle in a mill and using a facing cutter to deepen the pocket

I have done it with only one cutting surface like a fly cutter. the result is the same as in the mill.

this one is done with a valve as the tool and gives you the same result as doing it in the engine

[youtube:37xo1wre]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4W2p_8aXxI[/youtube:37xo1wre]

this one is done with a rottler cnc machine

[youtube:37xo1wre]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYQ-kUhinmY[/youtube:37xo1wre]

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... iston&sm=3

.
Originally Posted by bushmechanic
some more pics

the sandpaper glued to the valve is a nice one









commercially available for use with a drill and mounted in the valve guide



or use a lathe

Thanks from madmenno
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July 30th, 2014, 03:19 AM   #45
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recut valve seat Neway cutters

one of the seats had a spot of corrosion that didn't clean up with a light lap so needed a re cut



nice metal underneath, the rust was quite deep, had to take 0.2mm off



narrowed, cleaned up with 30 and 60 deg cutters and lapped


Last edited by bushmechanic; July 30th, 2014 at 03:34 AM.
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July 30th, 2014, 11:48 AM   #46
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I see u taken some meat off top piston ?! Isn't that gonna change compression ratio "less" just
Wondering how ya know not take to much off? Understand more clearance for the valves
Just wondering
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July 30th, 2014, 04:27 PM   #47
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yes about 0.2cc total, 0.1cc per pocket ... but i took some off the head as well so it will be about the same or higher CR.

its only a trailbike so im not too fussed about the CR, as long as its between 11.5 and 12.5 im happy
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July 30th, 2014, 06:19 PM   #48
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..
Originally Posted by spanner View Post
I made a tensioner full radius instead of the flattened off Husaberg design
to get the chain back to the original position so I can use a .8mm head gasket.
Still needs a little development, as the chain wears the tensioner will press the chain into the cam sprocket, but I am close


This is how I do my CAD analysis but it works



Next Is a manually adjusted chain tensioner.

Cheers spanner



Billet cylinder head



Originally Posted by fdracing View Post
I made the groove in the head



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

on the pics you can see what's going on when a stud broke , it happens on 6 gear at 210 km/h

regarding the cam chain , I put two chain tensioner rail and two cam adjuster one in the stock place and the other one in the front , so I can adjust my timing easily
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July 31st, 2014, 02:53 AM   #49
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Yes looked at putting a curved guide on the front side, but came to the conclusion that it was much easier just to make a full radius rear slipper.

Wondering if some noise is generated from that front guide flapping around.

Are you shimming the cam to get the chain tight Bushie?

That water transfer hole and the m6 cover mounting hole could have been better placed at allow for more chain adjustment.

The tensioner is a fair way out to start with, even with a new chain and stock deck/gasket.

Love that post valve porting
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July 31st, 2014, 03:39 AM   #50
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post valve porting LOL like a postnatal class

yes it is kind of a shim under the cam 0.75mm thick at the bottom, and thinner higher up. I would have welded it up and then rebored but my brother has the tig for a while, I also discoverd 0.75 was not quite enough so will re do it to 1mm another time.

yes I think your rear curved guide is a better solution than putting one on the tension side of the chain, yes could be noisy .... must be a pretty wild dance going on with the chain would be great to do a slo mo vid through a plastic cover

sealed the cases together this afternoon, jeebus that took me a while, 50 different mongrel parts so nothing fitted straight up

Last edited by bushmechanic; July 31st, 2014 at 03:56 AM.
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