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July 26th, 2014, 04:06 AM   #31
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mitseiki pentasaurus

Lucky you LOL
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July 26th, 2014, 09:46 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by bushmechanic View Post
Gday Mat

big end is standard, I have a PEEK coated cage but ive already welded this one so it will go in the 700, its only a lame trailbike this one. Im hoping I "never" have to change the mains.

fresh out of spam but have plenty of play dough in stock, top work by my 5yr old assistant.





0.9mm squish, HC3015 cam, intake valves to piston 1.8mm exhausts 3mm CR is about 12.5:1

Great to see you have moved on from crayons to play dough !

Deep breathung Hc 3015 and 12,5:1, the sucker should fairly wail then.

.9 squish is keen with the flexing Ti pin and associated small end clearance, tight mains and big end would mediate that I spose.

Mitseki pentasaurus ? I don't speak engineer but is it a relic 5 axis cnc mill made from fossilised T-Rex stool ?

Now we've seen your bottom end, how bout you give us some head.
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July 26th, 2014, 12:01 PM   #33
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haha

welcome back Mat!
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July 26th, 2014, 06:39 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Goose916 View Post
and here I thought the "Greek style" was bearing grease. I've lived in SF too long
Originally Posted by berglsmerg View Post
Yeah well I'm hoping it's just yoghurt.....
it is said that the Greeks were the ones who invented sex

however it was some time later that Italians had an epiphany and introduced women to it.

the story of the mitseki pentasaur is easily googled

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=M...A-nC8gfUiYHICw

according to the internet it comes from a pickled velociraptor chair with 5 legs
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July 26th, 2014, 06:48 PM   #35
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.9 squish is keen with the flexing Ti pin and associated small end clearance, tight mains and big end would mediate that I spose.
im hoping my teflon crayons will help ease the pain

apparently 0.5mm squish works ok with the 82mm crank



I inadvertantly ran 0.8mm squish with a 105mm JBS headgasket on a 100mm bore that worked ok too.

Last edited by bushmechanic; July 26th, 2014 at 07:02 PM.
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July 26th, 2014, 07:35 PM   #36
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the stock chain tensioner foot doesn't line up to the guide properly not sure if it is possible to correct that with your manual unit.
Yes I will be looking at correcting that.

Pentasaurus;

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July 26th, 2014, 07:47 PM   #37
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Bushie, does the HC3015 cam have differing lobe heights or do you need to compensate the valve timing owing to the deck being adjusted.

I am expecting to have to slot the cam sprocket to get things right again.
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July 28th, 2014, 03:44 AM   #38
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lovely pantograph, it blows me away reading grandads old machinery books how long ago they were making hydraulic servo operated copying machines

yes the HC has different lobe timing and lifts, I had to advance it a few degrees to get their specs last time i used it.

its not my favorite cam but it will do for this bike.

raising the cam first then will degree the cam again and recheck PTV clearance, cam gear is already slotted

the bottom surface of the head was not parallel to the cam bearing tunnel ... it keeps getting shinier and smaller all the time LOL

cut the valve spring pockets 0.5mm deeper today to get the seated force back down to 65lbs
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July 28th, 2014, 10:23 PM   #39
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ok, so . . . . for those of us that can change our oil and, on occasion adjust our valves, can you explain the use of the silly putty? I understand the concept of squish piston/cylinder/head clearance, but i'm curious as to how the putty helps you determine. Or, is is just where your kid decided to smear putty and you took a pic cuz it was funny and you knew it would confuse idiots like me
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July 29th, 2014, 03:22 AM   #40
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Gday Goose

if you watch DR_Cs youtube videos there is a section where he does this but with far more professional expressions and yellow clay .



you just measure how thick the clay is after the engine has rotated 2 turns
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