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April 18th, 2014, 01:03 AM   #1
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Cam chain tensioner fully out with new chain

Hi,

I've just put together a 2004 FS650E with a new camshaft, it's bearings and a set of KTM double spring set after one of the conical inlet springs broke... I also put in a new DID chain and I realise after 2 hours only that the tensioner is all the way out already! Anyone having any experience like this before or any clue what might be wrong? The engine doesn't sound too healthy either, sounded much better when I first started it and for the first hour. Not sure my main bearings are 100%, but I would maybe not call the engine noise "rumbling" as seems to be an indicator of bad main bearings. I did have some flakes on the oil magnet though... Anyhow, can't see a relation between the loose chain and possible bad main bearings.

Mats
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April 18th, 2014, 02:16 AM   #2
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who did you buy the bike off? PM me?

I sold a lot of parts to a Finn who was going to skim the block by 0.4mm.

T... M....?

Taffy
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April 18th, 2014, 02:31 AM   #3
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FWIW in case it helps ..... if you can get hold of a regina camchain they are supposed to be shorter,

codes here

Stuck in the timing chain marsh

you could probably get a thicker copper headgasket made up if that is needed



Originally Posted by spanner View Post
He also can make them in the following thickness, .40mm .53mm .66mm .81mm 1.06mm 1.27mm 1.6mm 2.0mm 2.33mm 3.17mm.
Which opens up some possibility.


I have tracked down some ARP studs which I think will work, but as I have not received them yet
so I can not be 100% sure they will work.

Cheers spanner
FE650 copper head gasket
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April 18th, 2014, 06:57 AM   #4
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No Taffy, the bike is imported to Finland by me, so it's probably not that bike. However, have no history of it what so ever, so the head might be lower than stock...
What are your thoughts of a modified tensioner? I'm thinking of something like DJH Cycle Sport's version? DJH Cam Chain Tensioner_Before and After.mp4 - YouTube

Mats
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April 18th, 2014, 07:05 AM   #5
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you'll find that you have an early tensioner blade in there. if you look at the tip it is relatively SHARP and POINTED. the 2005 blade is like a fat banana.

this is all you need.

in stock!

Taffy
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April 18th, 2014, 09:30 AM   #6
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Ok Taffy, thanks. I see from the 2004 and 2005 diagrams of the engines that it has changed to part number 820.36.002.000 from 800.36.002.000. And IT IS the sharp and pointed one I have in there. But you have a modified version as well; what's the difference? And does this solve my problem with the tensioner being "too short"?

Mats
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April 18th, 2014, 09:34 AM   #7
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Should also mention that the blade isn't whitish/yellow, it's black...

Mats
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April 18th, 2014, 09:41 AM   #8
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you're getting your years muddled.

pre 2004 is yellow and straight = no good

I modify those later ones to help people with pre 2004s as well.

you sir just need therefore = the standard item!

regards

Taffy
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April 18th, 2014, 09:56 AM   #9
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Ok Taffy, thanks again! IŽll get the Ž05 one after Eastern and post the progress! However I need to get and install John's weep hole leakeage kit also before I can put the engine back together again, since it leaks both oil and water from the hole - unless you have a solution to that as well??

Mats
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May 7th, 2014, 05:28 AM   #10
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OK, got the Ž05 chain guide installed and I have 6 clicks left on the tensioner instead of zero and a loose chain! Thanks a lot for the tip, Taffy!! Haven't started yet though, still waiting for my weep hole kit from Orangeberg.

Mats
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