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March 16th, 2014, 12:38 PM   #1
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Starting issue

Recently, I purchased a 2011 FE570 with only 120 miles on it. I've owned several KTM's but this is my first fuel injected bike.

The few times I've started the bike I've always been able to get it started but not without some concern. It seems to take a fair amount of cranking to fire and then it usually backfires before it eventually starts. It seems to start better when warm but still backfires as I'm cranking the starter. Again, this is my first fuel injection experience but the required prolonged cranking of the engine and backfiring don't seem normal.

Any suggestions/recommendations would be appreciated!
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March 17th, 2014, 12:19 AM   #2
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Re: Starting issue

Fresh fuel with some Startron additive. Have the dealer check to see if the competition map has been installed.
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March 18th, 2014, 02:59 AM   #3
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Re: Starting issue

Are you giving any gas out of habit from your carburetor days? If so, don't. As soon as you give gas the fuel is cut off. So any "janking" of the throttle is bad.

It is a good way to empty the system from fuel if you manage to soak it though, give gas and let the starter engine empty the cylinder.
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March 19th, 2014, 01:45 PM   #4
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Re: Starting issue

Originally Posted by berger
Fresh fuel with some Startron additive. Have the dealer check to see if the competition map has been installed.
I will try the star tron. What is the competition map?
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March 19th, 2014, 01:46 PM   #5
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Re: Starting issue

Originally Posted by jon andersson
Are you giving any gas out of habit from your carburetor days? If so, don't. As soon as you give gas the fuel is cut off. So any "janking" of the throttle is bad.

It is a good way to empty the system from fuel if you manage to soak it though, give gas and let the starter engine empty the cylinder.
At first I was giving it some gas like with a carb and then realized my mistake. Now, I don't touch the throttle and it helps but still seems to backfire before it will start.
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March 22nd, 2014, 01:31 PM   #6
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Re: Starting issue

Originally Posted by allkidd
Originally Posted by berger
Fresh fuel with some Startron additive. Have the dealer check to see if the competition map has been installed.
I will try the star tron. What is the competition map?
The competition map is the "closed course" competition map. Basically it delivers more fuel all the way around.

You also need to block off the air injection valve on the cylinder. If this has not been done to your bike, it will pop on decel. Further, if you block off the vacuum lines to the carbon canister, and just vent your tank normally this will help too.

I can find no reference to the secondary air SAS in the 2011 parts book.

It is found on page 43 of the pdf attachment of the 2009 parts, or page 9 of the engine section.

I'm pretty sure your bike has this on it stock, unless someone already removed it. This is the main source of popping on decel.

You can remove it and install the plug found on page 53 of the pdf 2009 parts book, or page 19 of the engine section. Parts #13 and #12 are the plug and washer for the Secondary Air SAS.

Refer to page 32 or 33 in the parts book/chassis section for the evaporative canister. All of the following references that page.

Part #11 is a drain for the evaporative vacuum line system.

Part #6 is the drain for this system. Try removing this drain plug to remove any fuel that may be in the vacuum lines. If these lines are full of fuel, it will have an effect on starting. So, short of disconnecting the evaporative system, by making sure this drain is empty you can help make sure that is not affecting anything. Notice how that the line comes directly from the fuel tank vent cap down to the T fitting, then goes to the carbon canister. From the canister, the vacuum line goes up to a valve that is controlled by the ECU. This valve when open, provides the vacuum source to the tank vent. From the valve a vacuum line runs up to the intake tract.

Part #10 is vacuum source to the evaporative system. It is a small barbed fitting that is screwed into the inlet casting on the head, just below the throttle body. You can pull this line off, and most importantly block off that barbed fitting. You can also unplug the electrical connector to the valve, Part #2, and it will not affect the operation of the bike.

If you do all of this, remember to vent the gas cap as you would normally on a dirt bike.

Once this has all been done, removing the secondary air system, evaporative system, and an ECU reflash to the competition map, your bike will start much better and will run better overall.

[attachment=0:jqut2z0i]2009_FE570 parts book.pdf[/attachment:jqut2z0i]

[attachment=1:jqut2z0i]2011_FE570S emmission.pdf[/attachment:jqut2z0i]
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2011_FE570S emmission.pdf (4.01 MB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf 2009_FE570 parts book.pdf (4.42 MB, 6 views)
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