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March 21st, 2014, 03:30 AM   #51
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

FArk yeah!

very nice Spanner

I see you made some room for the bigger rod as well ?
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March 21st, 2014, 03:46 AM   #52
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

I have to do the balancing act again
and remove some from the counter weight

Do you have any idea how to adjust the counter rotating balancer to suit other
than throwing it out the window?
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March 21st, 2014, 04:06 AM   #53
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

based on other balancers I have seen I think that any adjustment toward a generally accepted value would involve making it heavier

there is supposedly a secret formula to match the reciprocating parts to the CB but i don't know anything about it.

from what ive found, the CB also only really does any smoothing at low rpm, at high rpm it adds a buzzy feel to the problem. the balancing of the CB is supposed to reduce the buzzy feel at high rpm

maybe if you grind it right down it will feel as good as my bike
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March 21st, 2014, 04:19 AM   #54
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

LOL secret formula
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March 30th, 2014, 12:16 AM   #55
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

Well I have perhaps found the true weak point in the Husaberg 628 crankshaft hidden under the shot peening.
No need for incomplete fancy finite analysis either.
Just a bit of grinding and rubbing with a bit of rock and watch the cracks appear.
Crack on right is highlighted with red ball point pen.
Other cracks do not need highlighting.

This one headed for the welders to have extra added, or the bin
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March 30th, 2014, 08:31 PM   #56
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

interesting spanner

I suppose they are possibly all like that though ?
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March 31st, 2014, 12:28 AM   #57
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Re: Balancing an 80mm 650 crank

Quite possibly Bushie,
I am starting to think the cracks in the centre are some sort of inclusion
from the manufacturing process.
Not sure what they were thinking thinning it down right opposite the main bearing pin.
The crack highlighted with the ball point looks to me to be perhaps from torsional load,
being on the drive side. May be.
I have another flywheel so I will dress the same area and see if it the same.
Not sure about welding, but seems to be quite commonly done when they make stroker
cranks etc, would be nice to know the material it is made from?
Could fill in quite a bit of that area.

Cheers spanner
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April 1st, 2014, 04:18 PM   #58
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I think they use stellite 6 TIG filler rod on the ktms

I know its the same as they use for building up camshafts
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April 3rd, 2014, 01:47 AM   #59
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stellite 6, that is petty hard stuff to machine ?

I found (I think) that the cranks are case hardened.
so have a layer of high carbon content steel on the surface.
Makes it brittle near the edge of the weld. HAZ.

Cheers spanner
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April 4th, 2014, 03:57 PM   #60
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Solved the crack mystery I think
Seen similar cracks in tooling where a thinner section is
surrounded by a larger section, when quenched the thin
section contracts first more than the still hotter larger section
creating enough stress to crack the thinner section.
Being Case hardened it may only be a surface crack around
the depth of the case

Both flywheels are cracked the same, a third one has no crack
so may have been quenched different or from a lower temperature.

Going to use them.

Have shaved 250g total off so far, next step is to re-balance
to the STD factor by surface grinding material of the inside
flat faces as marked.

Might get a total reduction of around 500g from the crank

Thinking counter balancer will not need adjustment?

I have an idea I can save around 30g from the STD big end pin still
thinking that one out

Cheers spanner
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