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April 17th, 2014, 11:37 PM   #61
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Thanks bushmechanic!

Very good thread for learning everything you didn't want to know about your main bearings!

However; yes I had some flakes on the magnet... I have a dial gauge, so I will check the play. It starts to feel that I need to split the engine and (at least) have the main bearings changed. I have the repairs manual, but I haven't opened up a Husaberg before. The KTM RFS I have experience with, though. I guess you know what the MINIMUM things you need to change when splitting the cases, since you obviously have done it a few times... Is there a guiding "shopping list" anywhere around?

Mats
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April 18th, 2014, 12:52 AM   #62
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Update: axial clearance 0,4mm (measured with gauge and pushing in and out by hand onky). Radial clerance 0,04-0,05 (on flywheel, grabbing it by hand up & down). What I noticed now is that the chain tensioner is fully out and the chain still feels a bit loose...?? Will do another post on that, since it's off topic.

Mats
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April 19th, 2014, 05:30 PM   #63
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Great work Bushie,

Wonder if the LH case can benefit from some JB weld.
There is a fair bit of webbing around the main bearing
housing that could be easily filled in.



Looking at using a nj2206 almost looks as if it was made for it.
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April 23rd, 2014, 12:22 AM   #64
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yes the 20mm wide roller is a straight drop in after you chuck out the counterbalancer

never thought of epoxy filling in those webs ,, the 02 cases I have are beefier around the mains. could be a good idea.. easy to do.

Ive always thought the weak point is the thin machined bit providing clearance for the cam chain sprocket near the 6905 bearing

Ive got my 2 timken 22206 spherical rollers waiting for a home ... need to get some thickwall tubing for the sleeves next.
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April 23rd, 2014, 12:24 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by Finnmats View Post
Update: axial clearance 0,4mm (measured with gauge and pushing in and out by hand onky). Radial clerance 0,04-0,05 (on flywheel, grabbing it by hand up & down). What I noticed now is that the chain tensioner is fully out and the chain still feels a bit loose...?? Will do another post on that, since it's off topic.

Mats
0.4mm is a bit tight, the radial play is good though.

if you aim for 0.7-0.8mm axial play its easier to get what you're hoping for
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April 23rd, 2014, 02:07 AM   #66
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Bushie,
"yes the 20mm wide roller is a straight drop in after you chuck out the counterbalancer"


Looks to be enough material to just bore 4mm deeper.
Although it would be nice to have the bearing closer to the flywheel, don`t
discount the leverage of the primary gear against the clutch basket
gear.


Performance Metals
Might have some tube for your bearings.
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April 23rd, 2014, 02:28 AM   #67
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nice link, thanks Spanner

I think if we just bore 4mm deeper without a sleeve to spread the axial loading then the case will be too weak to take any axial load

the clutch loading is a good point as well though, spanner the husaberg engineering ninja
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April 23rd, 2014, 03:21 PM   #68
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Has anyone tried their bullet proof main bearing conversion?

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April 23rd, 2014, 03:35 PM   #69
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contiman runs the JBS hardened steel sleeves and 22206 spherical rollers

82mm crank 105mm bore

JBS 700 Kit on welded 80mm Crank

I run one 22206 on the drive side in a much simpler sleeve

the 02 im working on will have one each side, it is a great idea IMHO
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April 24th, 2014, 06:43 PM   #70
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Hi Bushie,

I agree removing any material from the main bearing area will reduce
its strength.
Boring 4mm deeper leaves around 1.5mm thickness, I think, surly not
enough.
Might be able to reinforce that area with a turned aluminum
ring screwed around it perimeter to the case the ring could also
hold the seal.

Like your idea of extra oil supply to the LH main bearing.
Hard to see how it gets any oil hidden behind the
counterbalancer bearings

PS the Carrillo is back in its box going to run the std rod
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