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November 19th, 2015, 06:40 AM   #131
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She's OK with me baking engine parts in the oven too Haha.

Anyone have a sealant recommendation? For the case halves, is Permatex Ultra Black RTV suitable?

The stuff that was on the engine was grey between the case halves, and white between the head and valve cover.
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November 19th, 2015, 08:12 AM   #132
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Speakin of engines in The oven. I must till you that some women actually can stand it. My dad had a woman over night. When se woke up, had breakfast and putta The dishes in The dishwasher se found not only engine parts from his Trike. But allso The toiletbrush. And 5 years later they got married.
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November 19th, 2015, 06:37 PM   #133
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Right side main installed, both new races installed on the crank.

That's the most I have accomplished on this project since I started it.

Also, the clutch side race was far more difficult install oddly enough.

The ignition side literally dropped on, had to tap the clutch side on with a hammer using the tool I made.

I got the woodruff key out of the water pump shaft, now I just need a puller to get the cam drive gear off, and I can replace the other main bearing.

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November 20th, 2015, 02:56 PM   #134
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Thanks for the help guys!

0.6mm Axial Play.

I can only assume it will very slightly increase when there is sealant between the case halves.

I can't believe how thin the oil rings on the Wossner piston are!

Still not 100% on if I'll be keeping this bike, or selling it.

I'm at the point where I can easily make money on it.

I value the learning experience, and I have ridden this bike before I bought it, when it didn't have any issues... I know it's a bad influence on me, but at the same time, all my time I put into it!

Really love my dear Husky TE610, but the Husaberg sure is a lot more fun.

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March 3rd, 2016, 07:56 PM   #135
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To the suitably knowledgeable, what should I be looking for as the root cause of the failure?

Left Side Crank Bearing
2005 FE450E
90 hrs
5800 km's
SKF Bearing

[IMG][/IMG]
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March 5th, 2016, 08:39 PM   #136
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did you measure the crank axial play before taking it apart ?

thats the likely issue

also check crank runout and use NTN bearing on re assembly
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March 6th, 2016, 07:01 AM   #137
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Good job
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March 6th, 2016, 05:07 PM   #138
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Bushy,
The axial play was 0.5 to 0.6, was hard to get an accurate measurement due to the main bearings flopping around.
What I plan to do is;
1. Replace the con rod with all new pins and bearings
2. Replace the piston & liner (obvious given the damage to the liner)
3. Replace both the SKF main bearings with NTN items.
4. Replace the counter balancer bearings (Using bearing mount solution & pin punch them "lightly"

Some questions before I re-assemble.
1. What is the ideal clearance to give the rod to the crank webs. Currently I'm going down the route of re-assembling the crank to the same width between the 1/2's using the pre-disassembly measurement that I took.
2. My bearing shop is a NTN agent, what bearing number should I ask for (I've noted that a NTN Nj206 is mentioned) or is the bearing only available from KTM?
3. Is NTN the premium bearing or should I look to Nachi or other brands.
4. Using NTN bearings (in this example), and the fact that its a 450, what axial end float should I target?
5. What run-in procedures and oil should I "ideally" use or is just get on it and ride, without giving it a hard time.

Sorry for being a pain in the arse,
Thanks, Rod
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Last edited by bahnsy; March 6th, 2016 at 05:26 PM.
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March 7th, 2016, 03:35 AM   #139
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G'day rod

Those ntns are special ones. And different to all the others Orangeberg has them give him a call details in my signature

I would go for Crank axial play of 0.5 to 0.6mm and rod big end axial play of 0.4 to 0.5mm

But if you talk to john about his bearings ask him.

For run in just low revs without lugging for 10 hours or so

Cheers ! bushie
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March 28th, 2016, 02:22 AM   #140
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the easiest way of getting the ignition side main roller bearing out is as follows;

use a suitable bar that only just goes through the seal housing or use a 6203 gearbox bearing.

with one hand put the inner race back up and into the bearing from below and hold.

then place the shaft or 6203 in and press through with the press. the inner race keeps the rollers outwide and then they become the thing you push on.

another way to do it is to grind enough of the outside lip off the inner race that it falls through the oil seal hole. drop it into the rollers from above this time and again - just press.

and alway have enough axial float upon your rebuild and then you don't have to change from NTN or SKF or anyone or anything! axial clearance comes first so GET ENOUGH!

regards

Taffy
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