dsducati

Sure sounds like a problem with the oil system reed under the clutch cover
dan

JoeUSA

Having been there before, I agree with Dan. In my case the reed was blocked from closing by a piece of bearing ball retainer ribbon that broke out of the clutch main shaft bearing. With the reed being held open, the crank case filled up with oil within a few minutes after being shut off. But it wasn't bad enough to cause it to smoke. Yours might be much worse, maybe the reed is broken!

Joe

LINEAWEAVER

It is indeed quite possible you simply have a damaged crankcase reed valve. Such allows wet sumping, consequently overloading the oil ring with excessive oil consumption (ie burning) being the result.

Oil blow being worse upon initial start up is also a good indication.

Best Regards,
Dale

Quick check:
View the piston crown and note the outer circumference. If said area is clean as compared to that of the remaining piston oil is most likely finding its way past the rings.

oyk

it turned out at last that the damn reed valve was broken
it is funny what damage can do to you a small piece of fiber that costs no more than 2.62e.

the funny thing is that a month or so ago, someone posted a question for the reliability of the reed valve and i thought to answer that : "hey, don't worry. my reed valve hasn't ever been changed since 1996 an still working perfectly "

oyk, you fool........

nsman

OYK.
Glad you found the problem.......nsman

steve

My recollection is that the manual says 150hrs for replacement. I'm on my fourth and the old ones looked fine each time. But they are cheap and easy to replace. The most expensive part being the clutch gasket.

Steve

JBSracing

I read this topic with interest, why is the Husaberg so sensitive to wet sumping causing oil to be burned?

I think a dry-sump is a better design, but lots of bikes use semi-wet (baffled but no reed/check valve) or fully wet sumps, below are a few examples the links take you to schematics so you can tell I haven’t cheated. So why does wet sumping a Husaberg cause the severity of smoking described here? I know its not designed that way, but what is so physically different in a Husaberg to cause it to smoke and another bike to run normally with a wet sump. NB – the Polaris, Hondas, and Kwak use 3 ring longish skirt pistons, so may be that’s it, BUT the Yam uses a very similar piston design to the Husaberg 2 ring, low compression height, short skirt, when you slam on the breaks I'm sure the Yams crank is submerged in oil??

Polaris Predator 500

Honda XR 400 & XR 600 (XR650 changed to dry sump, 400 still wet)

Kawasaki KFX400

Yamaha YZF450

Ben - JBSracing

LINEAWEAVER

Hi Ben,

As opposed to a true wet sump design "the Husaberg engine is a quasi dry sump" providing for a relatively dry crankcase cavity during operation.

On a conventional wet sump engine the crankshaft does not usually run in an oil bath as the sump is well below that of the crankshaft halves and most often outfitted with a baffle and / or scraper.

The Husaberg oil level is such that if the reed valve fails the crankshaft halves will indeed run in oil consequently overloading the two ring, slipper skirt piston.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dale

JBSracing

Hi Dale

Thanks for taking the time to educate me again. Your comments are much appreciated and noted (literal in my note book). I can certainly see that the Husaberg has no low oil sump in the castings unlike the engines I linked to. Looking at the engines I linked to they have baffles low down as you say and have big gaps higher up that the oil can get back out of. The Husaberg doesn't have the gaps to let oil back out so I guess once its in it stays in till it finds its way to the combustion chamber. Thanks again.

Best regards

Ben

oyk

what really caused the smoking effect was :

broken reed valve (who knows for how long) caused insufficient piston-cylinder lubrication because of the fact that when piston was moving to TDC it could not "suck" oil through the oil filter small hole located on the back+top of the crankshaft chamber.
is my theory solid? am i wrong?

anyway, the result was the cylinder surface to become slightly oval, so rings could not seal well(in fact new rings could not seal at all).

i asked at my dealer for the price of a new cylinder and he said 590e.

is it good idea to have my cylinder electrochemically re-coated? (it is obvious that i don't know the right term )

actually i send the cylinder today to a specialist here in greece to get it done.

he sais that he has the equipment, he needs 2 weeks of work but i simply think he sends it to italy (no way he has the equipment)

anyhow, the price is 220e and i get 1 year warranty.

anyone tried it? does anyone has a link to somewhere preferably in europe that performs that kind of work?