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April 11th, 2011, 11:35 AM   #1
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70 degree valve check/adjustment

Does anyone have directions on how to perform a valve service on the new engines?
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April 11th, 2011, 12:11 PM   #2
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Basically just set the piston at TDC on the comp stroke using the marks on the head and camshaft sprocket and check the clearances. I've read somewhere, possibly on this forum, that it's easier to remove the rocker shafts and rockers than the camshaft and camchain & tensioner if the clearances require adjustment. I'll be checking mine shortly so I'll be looking into this method.
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April 11th, 2011, 07:28 PM   #3
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

I just did this on my 2010 FE 450 and had a hell of a time finding a useable metric feeler gauge. Luckily I still had an angled .10 and .13mm from my old Berg and found a .15mm to check the upper limit. But I'd love to find a proper set.

Here's what I did:
Bike in 6th gear and on a lift
Pull sparky plug (Berg tool kit wrench)
Remove L radiator (8mm) (I left the gas tank on cause I have long skinny fingers but ya might want to pull it)
Remove valve cover (10 mm) and crankcase vent house.
Using the rear wheel turn over the engine until the little dot on the cam chain gear lines up with the drill "point" or divot on the rocker shaft housing. Check your clearances. Make sure your at TDC and not at overlap. (Thanks Dale EO ) Mine were .13 on the intake and .12 exhaust, if I recall.

Hope this helps
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April 24th, 2011, 07:07 AM   #4
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Hi Everyone,

Been lurking for a few months. First post.
I purchased a new 2010 FE570 about three weeks ago.
Did the first oil change a one hour and now have three hours on it.
I check the clearance on the valves and I am at the tight end of the range.
.10 to less than .12mm on the intakes.
.12mm on one exhaust and between .10 and .12mm on the other exhaust.

It seems that I need to pull the rocker arms and replace shims, correct?

I will have to get to the old shims first, to determine what size the factory used when building the engine, correct?

People comment about using harley shims. Are all Harley shims the same as late model KTM's and Husabergs?

I have a Harley dealer right around the corner from me so that would be convienent. Any comments on Harley part numbers for shims? If I put Harley shims in it, will it go slower?

Seriously, your thoughts would be helpful.

What an awesome bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
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April 28th, 2011, 07:40 AM   #5
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Just checked the valve clearances on my 2011 FE390 for the 1st time at 50 hours.
Exhausts were 0.18mm and one inlet was 0.15mm and the other 0.11mm.
Should I adjust the inlet that's at 0.11mm or just leave it until the next valve clearance check ?
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April 28th, 2011, 08:33 AM   #6
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

As long as you are carefull when removing the "shoe" bolt that holds the camshaft in place (so as not to drop into the head), it is way easier to loosen the cam chain tensioner, remove the cam "shoe" with that single bolt on the backside of the cam gear, this allows you to slide the cam out (keep your cam chain wired so as not to lose it down the chain tunnel), place new shim, then you can slide the cam back in (carefully) and re-check, if not correct, then slide cam out, replace shim and slide cam in to recheck...the other way, you would have to constantly re-torque your cam tower bolts so you could get a correct measurement...what a pain

Also, if you are on the "tight" end of the spec, you can usually go one shim size different and you would be fine, no measuring/calculating needed...just a thought (of course re-measure clearance to be sure).
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May 20th, 2011, 06:43 PM   #7
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Originally Posted by HusaUrDaddy
Hi Everyone,

Been lurking for a few months. First post.
I purchased a new 2010 FE570 about three weeks ago.
Did the first oil change a one hour and now have three hours on it.
I check the clearance on the valves and I am at the tight end of the range.
.10 to less than .12mm on the intakes.
.12mm on one exhaust and between .10 and .12mm on the other exhaust.

It seems that I need to pull the rocker arms and replace shims, correct?

I will have to get to the old shims first, to determine what size the factory used when building the engine, correct?

People comment about using harley shims. Are all Harley shims the same as late model KTM's and Husabergs?

I have a Harley dealer right around the corner from me so that would be convienent. Any comments on Harley part numbers for shims? If I put Harley shims in it, will it go slower?

Seriously, your thoughts would be helpful.

What an awesome bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
3 hours and the valves need to be adjusted?!

Is that normal?
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May 21st, 2011, 06:26 AM   #8
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

There is a locating bolt on the side of the engine. take the bolt out remove the washer screw the bolt back in, turn the engine over till the bolt locates, that's your timing mark, same as the KTM'S I've been told.
You will need shims if your valve adjustment is out.
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May 21st, 2011, 06:47 AM   #9
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Out of adjustment valves in a new engine should qualify as a warranty item.
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May 21st, 2011, 07:05 AM   #10
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

First valve check is scheduled for the four mark in the manual, so I would say that is 100% normal.

I had one valve just on the edge of the spec at that mark. The rest were fine. Same maintenance schedule as KTM. I don't anticipate the valves moving much after the next (15 hour) adjustment.
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