husaberg 390 timing marks

the_viking · June 9th, 2011, 08:52 AM

Originally Posted by Garrison

Fantastic write-up. Thanks very much. (I could have used this when I did mine last month!) Like you, I just had one to adjust.

One point on the cam removal though; It's just that one bolt on the little bracket on the cam sprocket that holds it in place. Then you just slide it to the left side about two cm to be able to lift the rocker and grab the shim. (I used a magnet). No need to remove the cam chain. Nice and easy.

So this prevents you from screwing up the timing, right? If the chain is never actually removed from the cam?

E-Ticket · June 9th, 2011, 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by the_viking

Originally Posted by Garrison

Fantastic write-up. Thanks very much. (I could have used this when I did mine last month!) Like you, I just had one to adjust.

One point on the cam removal though; It's just that one bolt on the little bracket on the cam sprocket that holds it in place. Then you just slide it to the left side about two cm to be able to lift the rocker and grab the shim. (I used a magnet). No need to remove the cam chain. Nice and easy.

So this prevents you from screwing up the timing, right? If the chain is never actually removed from the cam?

That is correct. But you should still remove the cam chain tensioner (be it stock, Dirt Tricks, or DJH) to release pressure on the cam chain and avoid scraping cam bearing surfaces, giving yourself enough slack to work, etc.

The other trick, after locating TDC and using your crankshaft fixing bolt to locate and hold things in place ... is to put a small drop of paint or white-out on the cam chain link that lines up with the locating dimples on the cam and cam tower. That way, you know exactly when to line up the cam chain on the cam gear ... makes it really easy-peezy. And if you've done all that - it's 5 seconds to slip the cam out and have easy access to everything.

Cheers! E-Ticket

Garrison · June 9th, 2011, 09:53 AM

Sorry! My bad - you did say you needed to remove the cam chain tensioner, not the cam chain. I misread it first time through.

Still - that's just one more bolt

the_viking · June 9th, 2011, 10:08 AM

Thanks guys! Will be doing my own valve check soonish, this thread has helped a ton. I'm still not sure I'm confident enough to pull the cam, but we'll see. I had my valves adjusted by the shop at 15 hours, so I'm hoping they'll be in spec and I won't have to worry about it...

This would be a good sticky thread candidate!!

E-Ticket · June 9th, 2011, 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by the_viking

Thanks guys! Will be doing my own valve check soonish, this thread has helped a ton. I'm still not sure I'm confident enough to pull the cam, but we'll see. I had my valves adjusted by the shop at 15 hours, so I'm hoping they'll be in spec and I won't have to worry about it...

This would be a good sticky thread candidate!!

Pulling the cam sounds scarier than it actually is. Remember, it's not a twin-cam setup where you have pull bearing caps off and retorque. Once you have your TDC, fixing bolt in place, and mark your timing chain ... then it's simply removing the cam chain tensioner, removing the camshaft fixing bolt/plate ... and the cam simply slides out of it's bearings. Slide it out far enough to have it come of the bearing ... and the cam drops down slightly and you simply lift the cam chain off of the cam gear ... and ta-da! ... you're sitting there holding your cam.

While this isn't a detailed step-by-step valve adjust - the following pictorial on the '08 KTM cam/ADC issue with give you some more pictures to make it easy to visusalize. And yes, it's a Katoom ... but the same head/cam/valves are what is on the late-model Hooseyburgers:

http://www.omraoffroad.com/forum/vie...er=asc&start=0

Cheers! E=Ticket

Garrison · June 9th, 2011, 01:16 PM

I went one step easier: I zip tied my cam chain to the cam sprocket, and then just slid out the cam enough to lift the rocker.

To those who are a bit nervous about this procedure, this was also my first time adjusting valves. It went really well, with nothing perplexing. I think I looked at a couple of youtube videos of this procedure on generic bikes as well before diving in. Now that I've done it once I think the second time would be a whole lot quicker. The only pain for me was having to remove the stator cover to advance the engine, as my Rekluse doesn't allow it to rotate with the rear wheel. Of course, I damaged the gasket while I was at it. Maybe I should have a machine shop create an access plug, as one lister described previously in an excellent post.

E-Ticket · June 9th, 2011, 01:44 PM

Originally Posted by Garrison

I went one step easier: I zip tied my cam chain to the cam sprocket, and then just slid out the cam enough to lift the rocker.

To those who are a bit nervous about this procedure, this was also my first time adjusting valves. It went really well, with nothing perplexing. I think I looked at a couple of youtube videos of this procedure on generic bikes as well before diving in. Now that I've done it once I think the second time would be a whole lot quicker. The only pain for me was having to remove the stator cover to advance the engine, as my Rekluse doesn't allow it to rotate with the rear wheel. Of course, I damaged the gasket while I was at it. Maybe I should have a machine shop create an access plug, as one lister described previously in an excellent post.

I'll see your one-step easier ... and raise you with:

.... you put your bike in gear, put a socket and breaker bar on the countershaft sprocket ... and turn it very slowly until the cam dots line up. If you turn it slow, there's no real chance of loosening the countershaft sprocket bolt. And then you're done without having to crack a cover open.

Your call.

the_viking · June 9th, 2011, 06:36 PM

Originally Posted by E-Ticket

Originally Posted by Garrison

I went one step easier: I zip tied my cam chain to the cam sprocket, and then just slid out the cam enough to lift the rocker.

To those who are a bit nervous about this procedure, this was also my first time adjusting valves. It went really well, with nothing perplexing. I think I looked at a couple of youtube videos of this procedure on generic bikes as well before diving in. Now that I've done it once I think the second time would be a whole lot quicker. The only pain for me was having to remove the stator cover to advance the engine, as my Rekluse doesn't allow it to rotate with the rear wheel. Of course, I damaged the gasket while I was at it. Maybe I should have a machine shop create an access plug, as one lister described previously in an excellent post.

I'll see your one-step easier ... and raise you with:

.... you put your bike in gear, put a socket and breaker bar on the countershaft sprocket ... and turn it very slowly until the cam dots line up. If you turn it slow, there's no real chance of loosening the countershaft sprocket bolt. And then you're done without having to crack a cover open.

Your call.

Nice!! I have to deal with a Rekluse also, this is another good idea from ET, thanks again!

Davo · June 9th, 2011, 11:32 PM

Originally Posted by E-Ticket

FWIW, I used to do the "pull the rocker arms shafts" ... till I discovered the problem of wear patterns, rotating them, swapping them, etc., etc.
Now, I just pull the cam if I need to. I think it's almost as fast ... and feels safer to me.
Cheers! E-Ticket

Hey E-Ticket, I see the Bolt and the Horse Shoe looking bracket that holds the Camshaft so I agree that part looks easy:

How do you reinstall the Timing Chain Tensioner without the special Tool 77329051000 ?

Originally Posted by fnqberg

Hi Davo,
I've read somewhere that the clearances get tighter on the bergs with time. Is this true?
I have just checked mine and I got 0.12 and 0.13 on the intake, and 0.17 and 0.18 on the exhaust.
I mic'd the exh shims at 2.85 and 2.91 respectively and was gonna chase up a 2.90 and 2.95 shims, but if they get tighter over time, wear should bring them closer to spec and I prolly wont bother.....what do you think?
by the way, have ya go the thermostat set on 20degC in the shed?

Had a beer with a thread repair/mechanic mate last night who confirmed he had seen Valves get tighter after time. They push up into the valve seats.
Can’t remember if he said it was typical for Exhaust Valves (I’d had a few beers by the end of the night

).

I can’t comment on your Valves tightening up fnqberg, I am flying by the seat of my pants and have no idea

Originally Posted by fizz

Thanks so much for posting the procedure and Pics - really appreciated.

I have 36 hrs on my bike and havn't checked my valves yet, but now I feel more confident about it - I have heard engine ticking on my bike when both cold and warm and unsure if its valves and/or CCT.
Only problem is checking valves at 20 degrees celcius - in Canberra its freezing cold - I'll have to convince Mrs Fizz I'll have to check the valves inside the house

Regards
Fizz

Thanks fizz. I have 1,899Kms and 48.1 Hours. Think they were checked at 3 Hours by Sutto’s.
Yeah I am a bit paranoid about ticking noises too. Might invest in a DJH Cam Chain Tensioner. I am sure my stock one is OK though, like I say just paranoid.
It’s been 11C for the last 3 days here in Sydney. I think I might take a heater out to the garage tonight.

Hey Berglsmerg, I understand your logic now on the Shims wearing on the Rocker Shaft side, thanks will keep that in mind. I have brought a few new Shims so will try my luck with them.

Thanks for your comments Garrison and E-Ticket, keep them coming everybody.

berglsmerg · June 10th, 2011, 03:51 AM

Davo the special tool for the tensioner isnt really special, its just a device to push the tensioner rod out, any piece of round small enough to fit thru the small top cover hole will do that for you.

Sorry to bust your bubble eticket and viking but no mater where you apply force to your final drive ( chain and sprockets ) you still wont turn the motor over due to the rekluse.

Also there is absolutley no risk of screwing up cam timing if the cam is left in place, to measure lash after placing the shim the cam needs to go back in inviting damage to bearing surfaces and possible over/under tension of the camchain when the adjustment is completed.

But to each their own, variety is the spice of life etc etc the main thing is to ensure you have a beer or 12 whlie tinkering ( or maybe a cup of soup or hot coffee for our southern brothers ay Davo.

S.O.O 2 next wednesday bloke get ready for 2-0 QLD

)