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June 8th, 2011, 05:17 PM   #31
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Originally Posted by DaleEO
The original procedure was to place the motor in the correct position, measure the clearances, and then if needed, pull the rocker shafts to gain access to the shims.
Then reinstall rocker shafts and re check measurements.
This eliminates having to mess with the cam, or cam chain adjuster. The latter procedure has you pulling the cam chain tensioner, and cam.
Hey Dale, I have been looking at this method of pulling the Rocker Shaft to adjust my clearance as I agree it looks way easier than messing with the Camshaft etc... Why would they have changed the procedure? I am a little worried bearings or something else might drop out when I pull the Rocker. Hope you can advise?


Originally Posted by rwhite148f
That's brilliant, much appreciated.
Thanks for the comment rwite148f it is a bit of work taking all those photos and writing it up.
The work so far has not been too difficult which surprises me. I am a little nervous about the next step and am tossing up whether to leave the Exhaust a little tight (0.02mm) and keep riding. I was thinking clearances would get bigger over time not smaller?
But I really have no idea, I even struggle staying on this beast when it is going. It spends a fair bit of it's life on it's side or tumbling down a hill

Originally Posted by berglsmerg
turn the shim over and measure it agian ?
Hey Berglsmerg! Good to see you still lurking around UHE ol mate.
Can you explain why turning the Shim over would change the reading? I am a little out of my depth.
Have you adjusted your Valves yourself before? Did you pull the Rocker Shaft or the Camshaft to change Shims?
It is a wonder no one has invented a little tool to push the Valve Down so you can pull the Shim? Would be easy as long as you turned the motor so the piston was not at the top of the stroke and the relevant Valve was still shut.

Originally Posted by the_viking
Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to do the pictures Davo, very helpful.
Thanks the_viking, I appreciate the comments, keep them coming fellas, especially if anyone sees something I could have done better or something I have done wrong.

More comments I get the better job I will do of writing it up Plus the better this post will be for anyone contemplating checking their Valves in the future.
I like to know if what I am doing is any good or not worth writing up?
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June 8th, 2011, 05:54 PM   #32
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

FWIW, I used to do the "pull the rocker arms shafts" ... till I discovered the problem of wear patterns, rotating them, swapping them, etc., etc.

Now, I just pull the cam if I need to. I think it's almost as fast ... and feels safer to me.

Cheers! E-Ticket
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June 8th, 2011, 05:59 PM   #33
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Thanks Davo, those write ups and pictures are worth their weight in gold! I know that myself and others would like to see a write up (and pictures) of actually changing a shim. Thanks
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June 9th, 2011, 01:00 AM   #34
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Part 5 - Removing the Valve Shims

There seems to be 2 ways to do this. Remove the Cam Shaft or Remove the Rocker Shaft.
I am choosing to take the Rocker Shaft way. I chose this way because removing the Cam Shaft requires the Cam Chain Tensioner to be removed and it appears you need a special tool to reinstall it.
DaleEO used the remove the Rocker Shaft technique, if it is good enough for him it is good enough for anyone. He is a legend.
Special Tools:
Magnet
Micrometers
8mm Allen Key
Long 6mm x 1.00mm Pitch Bolt

I would advise doing 1 rocker at a time so you donít mix anything up.
In my example I am taking the Exhaust Rocker Shaft off. That is the bottom Rocker Shaft. This process would be the same for the top ďInletĒ Rocker Shaft.


Remove the 8mm Allen Key Head Plug in the Side of the Head near the Spark Plug. Put it on a nice clean rag. Bottom Plug for Exhaust Rocker and Top Plug for Inlet Rocker.
Loosen the 2 x Bolts that hold the appropriate Rocker Shaft.
Here is a picture, where you can see the 8mm Allen Key Head Plug and the 2 x Exhaust Rocker Bolts loose.



Remove the Right Hand side (Spark Plug Side) Rocker Shaft Bolt completely. They are different bolts, so donít mix them up. Put it on a nice clean rag.

Screw a clean long 6mm diameter x 1.00mm pitch bolt into the Rocker Shaft. It is actually a Rod that you are screwing into that holds the Rocker Shaft and acts like a Bearing. Screw it in where you removed the Allen Key Head Plug.
Just a few turns will do.
Remove the Left Hand side Rocker Shaft Bolt completely. I left the Left Hand side Rocker Shaft Bolt in so the shaft (or Rod) did not spin while I screwed in the 6mm Long Bolt. I think it is important to not let the Rod spin as I think it will give you different Valve Clearances if the Rod is not inserted the same way as it comes out. The 2 Bolts that you removed go through holes in the Rod to stop it spinning. So it can be inserted 180 Degrees out if you spin it.

Place a Large Rag under the bike below the Head in case the Rocker Shaft falls out. Mine did not fall out but I dropped it when I was trying to remove it. Itís slippery with all the oil on it.

Pull the long 6mm Bolt gently and the Shaft inside the Rocker Shaft Slides out. I did not pull it all the way out, just stop puling when the Rocker Shaft Drops. Don't pull it all the way out as you will not be sure which way it goes back in. Again I reiterate, it can be 180 Degrees out and give you different Valve Clearance Readings. Here is a picture:



Here is a picture of the Rocker Shaft as it drops down. You can keep 1 hand on the Rocker and 1 hand on the 6mm Bolt to do this:


Here is a picture of the Bolts and Rocker Removed. Keep them on a clean Rag.



The Shims stayed in place. I think the oil keeps them there.
I used a magnet to get it out.
Here is a picture of the Shim. Rocker Shaft facing Side


Here is a picture of the Shim. Valve Facing Side.


I could see no marks on the Shim to identify itís thickness. My Micrometers measured 2.92mm (it must be a 2.90mm Shim I think as they donít make a 2.92mm)



I am off tomorrow to buy some Shims ($12.96 each in Australia) and try and reassemble.
I was 0.02mm tight, so I am buying a few to be safe:
60036035275 SHIM D=10/2,75
60036035280 SHIM D=10/2,80
60036035285 SHIM D=10/2,85
60036035290 SHIM D=10/2,90
60036035295 SHIM D=10/2,95

Will post up more tomorrow inc Bolt Torque settings for reassembly.
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June 9th, 2011, 02:26 AM   #35
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Hi Davo,

I've read somewhere that the clearances get tighter on the bergs with time. Is this true?

I have just checked mine and I got 0.12 and 0.13 on the intake, and 0.17 and 0.18 on the exhaust.

I mic'd the exh shims at 2.85 and 2.91 respectively and was gonna chase up a 2.90 and 2.95 shims, but if they get tighter over time, wear should bring them closer to spec and I prolly wont bother.....what do you think?


by the way, have ya go the thermostat set on 20degC in the shed?
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June 9th, 2011, 02:43 AM   #36
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

oops, sorry, just read your previous comments...
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June 9th, 2011, 02:53 AM   #37
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Thanks so much for posting the procedure and Pics - really appreciated.

I have 36 hrs on my bike and havn't checked my valves yet, but now I feel more confident about it - I have heard engine ticking on my bike when both cold and warm and unsure if its valves and/or CCT.

Only problem is checking valves at 20 degrees celcius - in Canberra its freezing cold - I'll have to convince Mrs Fizz I'll have to check the valves inside the house

Regards
Fizz
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June 9th, 2011, 04:07 AM   #38
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Hey Davo I use the pull the rocker shaft method like dale, I had the same thing as you with the exhaust being out of spec on one side. As the rocker pushes down on the shim it does it in an arc wearing a "dish " into the shim, turning it over will expose the nice flat side to the rocker arm so your clearance will close up slightly. Fnqberg, the valve lash should open up, if you have diminishing clearances its usually a sign of a tuliping valve or valve seat recession, CRFs were shocking for it.
Thanks from zimi
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June 9th, 2011, 07:24 AM   #39
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Fantastic write-up. Thanks very much. (I could have used this when I did mine last month!) Like you, I just had one to adjust.

One point on the cam removal though; It's just that one bolt on the little bracket on the cam sprocket that holds it in place. Then you just slide it to the left side about two cm to be able to lift the rocker and grab the shim. (I used a magnet). No need to remove the cam chain. Nice and easy.
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June 9th, 2011, 08:03 AM   #40
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Originally Posted by Garrison
Fantastic write-up. Thanks very much. (I could have used this when I did mine last month!) Like you, I just had one to adjust.

One point on the cam removal though; It's just that one bolt on the little bracket on the cam sprocket that holds it in place. Then you just slide it to the left side about two cm to be able to lift the rocker and grab the shim. (I used a magnet). No need to remove the cam chain. Nice and easy.
+2! But even removing the cam is a no-brainer.
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