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June 6th, 2011, 09:46 PM   #21
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Pictures from when the Valve Cover is removed? Or pictures from the start with all the fiddley bits removing tanks and radiators etc... ?
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June 7th, 2011, 12:11 AM   #22
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

If you could post pictures from the start that would be great, but i'll take anything you've got to help.

Cheers
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June 7th, 2011, 01:48 AM   #23
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

I also would appreciate someone video'ing or taking photos of the valve check/adjustment procedure.

I have a 2010 FE390 and am about to install a 'Dirt Tricks Cam Chain tensioner', will this make the valve check/adjustment any different, same with this installed, rather than the OEM tensioner?

Thanks in advance
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June 7th, 2011, 01:54 AM   #24
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

I started to check the valves yesterday. Will post as I go. Never done it before so feel free to correct me.
I am going by what I learnt from DaleEO’s posts and the Workshop manual.

Part 1 - Getting ready to remove the Fuel Tank

IMHO you need a metric 1/4 inch drive and metric 3/8 inch drive socket set to get to the valves.
You will also need a Torx Bit T45.
Bash Plate Off and give the bike a good wash. Hose as best you can up around the Valve Cover Area.

Remove the side Spoilers from the fuel tank. 3 x Bolts in each side plus a Bolt at the bottom front of each Spolier. The 3 x Bolts in the side are like self tappers that screw into the tank.
Air Filter out.
Clean rag in top of Throttle Body to keep dust out.
Loosen the Muffler by removing the spring that holds it to the mid pipe. Remove the 2 x Bolts that hold the Muffler. Access the Bolts through the holes in the Rear Fender. From underneath, twist the Muffler clockwise a ¼ turn to miss the subframe. It should just wriggle out after that.
Remove the Black Upper Subframe part by removing the 6 x Torx Bit Bolts. Just pull the front left part out a little to completely remove it.

Picture of Black Upper Subframe and Muffler removed:


There are 3 x Bolts that hold the Subframe on. 2 on the left and 1 on the right hand side.
Loosen the right hand Side Bolt.
Loosen the bottom left hand Side Bolt.
Remove the top left hand side Bolt.
You should be able to push the Subframe back a little, this will give you access to remove the tank. I found it difficult to push the Subframe back so took all 3 Bolts out.
Pictures of the Bolt holes on the Subframe:



Notice I took the rear Fender off and the Number Plate Carrier. I am working to install my 70 Degree Racing Subframe Fuel Tank at the same time. You don't have to remove these parts normally. One thing I noted when removing the Rear Fender (after removing the bolts) is you have to use a screw driver to lever it up out of the Subframe. The lugs you can see in the next picture lock the Rear Fender to the Subframe. I just loosely screwed the screws back in so I did not loose them.



Will post a bit more soon.
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June 7th, 2011, 03:20 AM   #25
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Part 2 - Removing the Fuel Tank.

With the Subframe laid back a little, you are ready to remove the Fuel Tank.
Remove the Air Line from the Fuel Cap. I removed it from where it connects to the Bike Frame.
Remove the Electrical connector on the Fuel Tank near where the Air Filter is. That connector is power to the Fuel Pump inside the Fuel Tank.
From the left hand side of the bike, just near the Throttle Body is the Fuel Line. It has a quick-disconnect fitting that you should be able to spot. You need to make sure this fitting is clean, use compressed air to blow all dirt away.
Find the metal tab on the quick-disconnect fitting and press it in. Pull the Fuel Line apart at the same time.
I then wrapped a rag around the connectors to keep dirt out. This is important as the injector seems to clog easy on these bikes.
Picture of the Fuel line on the engine and the Fuel line and quick-disconnect fitting on the Fuel tank Fuel Line:



Remove the Bolt at the top of the Fuel Tank just under the wire that retains the Air Filter.
Picture here:


The Tank should lift free now. As you lift it push the black rubber Air Box back free from the tank. It stays in place.

Fuel Tank free:


As you remove the Fuel Tank disconnect the electrical connector at the back of the Fuel Tank. That connector is the Low Fuel light circuit.
Picture of the connector below:


Here is the Fuel Tank Removed:
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June 7th, 2011, 04:00 AM   #26
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Part 3 - Remove Radiators.

I thought this job might be a bit difficult but the Radiators came off real easy.

Drain the Coolant via the little Bolt in the Water Pump Cover. Once the Radiator Cap is removed the coolant comes out fast. You would be pretty clever not to spill any:


I used an empty 1.5L (might have been a 2L) Coke Bottle and got most of it:


Remove the Horn Wires.
Loosen the Top Radiator Clamps. They are easy to get to which is good:


Loosen the bottom Radiator Clamp on the Left Radiator.

Remove the 2 x Bolts that hold the Radiator each side. With the Radiator Guards I have I had to use a long extension bar on my ¼ inch drive socket to reach the Radiator Bolts. The same 2 Bolts hold the Radiator Guard and the Radiator.
Remove the left Radiator:


I just wired the Right Radiator away from the Valve Cover with a coat-hanger:


That is all I have done. More tomorrow if I get time.
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June 7th, 2011, 11:06 AM   #27
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

That's brilliant, much appreciated.
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June 7th, 2011, 09:56 PM   #28
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Part 4 - Check Valves

OK I am out of my league now, I am not a mechanic.

Try and clean as much as you can with a rag and compressed air around the Valve Cover and above it. I think if I was to do this again I would wash the bike a second time with the tank off.

KTM Feeler Gauges:
59029041100


Remove the 4 Bolts holding the Valve Cover.
You need to lever the hose off that is connected to the top of the Valve Cover. It is not held on with anything and comes off easy with the help of a screw driver.


Bike in 6th gear and spin the wheel till the drill mark on the head lines up with the drill mark on the Cam Gear (Ladybergs tip, thanks). I did this without taking the spark plug out, but you are supposed to take it out. You can see the 2 marks in this picture:



Here is a picture of the inlet valves. They are the 2 Valves on the top of the head.


Here is a picture of the exhaust valves. They are the 2 Valves towards the bottom of the head.
Note, in the photo you can see the Oil Strainer in between the Valve Springs. This is the Oil Strainer that goes in the Banjo Bolt in the Head that you need to clean when changing your oil.


There should be a gap in between the Valves and the Rocker Arm as shown below.

The Gap should be measured at 20 Degrees Celsius:
INLET = between 0.10mm and 0.15mm
EXHAUST = between 0.12mm and 0.17mm

So here is a good inlet Valve within spec. The 0.10mm fits and the 0.12mm does not fit.




Mine Valves measured:
At 11 Degrees C (It's bloody cold at Galston today)
Left Side Inlet 0.10mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.12mm did not fit. Within Spec
Right Side Inlet 0.12mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.15mm did not fit. Within Spec
Left Side Exhaust 0.10mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.12mm did not fit. OUT OF SPEC
Right Side Exhaust 0.12mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.15mm did not fit. Within Spec

So my Left Side Exhaust is tight by 0.02mm. Do I need to change my Shim?
Thanks from joaquinh and Biscuits
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June 8th, 2011, 02:14 AM   #29
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

turn the shim over and measure it agian ?
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June 8th, 2011, 05:27 AM   #30
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Re: 70 degree valve check/adjustment

Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to do the pictures Davo, very helpful.
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