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November 11th, 2010, 11:04 AM   #11
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

OK, so here's some random thoughts... It's funny, but I find that when I try to do the 1/6 method, I can never get the .12 feeler in there afterward. It seems to take another 1/6 of a turn before it seems about right. I have to chalk that up to being hard to get a good angle on the feeler because 1/6 should be dead-on... I have normal automotive feelers by the way. I am going to pick up the Motion Pro guage with the hard stem and the "feeler tip" and I bet that will cure the problem.
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November 11th, 2010, 06:44 PM   #12
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

Best thread ever!
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November 12th, 2010, 12:20 AM   #13
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

Originally Posted by bmxr
OK, so here's some random thoughts... It's funny, but I find that when I try to do the 1/6 method, I can never get the .12 feeler in there afterward. It seems to take another 1/6 of a turn before it seems about right. I have to chalk that up to being hard to get a good angle on the feeler because 1/6 should be dead-on... I have normal automotive feelers by the way. I am going to pick up the Motion Pro guage with the hard stem and the "feeler tip" and I bet that will cure the problem.
you can get domed valve stems and cupped tappet pads and that will explain all that.

its a lot easier for feeler gauges now. anyone with a pre-2005 (or whatever) had a bridge down the middle of the inspection area. so 1/6th was the way to go. however, its about being a competent mechanic as well as being good at on and not the other.

TDC on the early bikes (up to 2004)is when an imaginary line 5mm to the right of the two on the flywheel is in line with the top ignition cover screw hole.

2004+ and TDC is when the leading edge of the ignition staple is in line with a line from the centre of the crank to the lower edge of the trailing ignition cover screw hole. also known as "9 'o clock".

mucking about with doing the tappets in anything but TDC is lethal. why? because the exhaust has a huge bump on it called the 'auto decompressor'. start adjusting your tappets on a 1mm bump and you're going to make a right old mess of them!

hope this all helps

regards

Taffy
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March 12th, 2011, 08:59 AM   #14
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

I'm with BMXR, it takes at least two flats before I can get the gage in.

I don't see how mine could be worn domed, the bike only has 15 hours on it.

I'd rather have them a little too loose than too tight.

Question: If the decomp was interfering during adjustment, then you'd end up with way too much clearance, correct? It's mashing down on the rocker to open the valve, so you'd back the adjustment off to get clearance.

While I had the radiator and everything off to do repairs, I went ahead and checked the valves, they seemed a tiny bit off. Now everything's together and I can't get it to start.

As soon as I let off the decomp lever, it won't crank past the compression stroke. I didn't change the valves that much, and if anything, they're a tad loose (used feeler gage).

I may have just ruined the battery, I ran it pretty flat quite a few times a couple weekends ago.
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March 12th, 2011, 12:06 PM   #15
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

OK, battery cable not quite tight, fixed that, jumper cables attached, same thing. Something wrong.

Seat off, sideplates off, tank off, drain radiator, radiator off, skid plate off, stator cover off, compression release cable off, spark plug out, nylon rod in the hole, set to absolute perfect TDC @ compression.

I don't know what I was doing before, but this time, 1 flat or 1/7 turn was perfect.

Adjusted all 4, re-assembled, choke, starter, it bumps right off and starts, runs great.

I'm glad it's running. I wish I understood this.
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March 16th, 2011, 05:42 AM   #16
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

TDC is when the leading edge of the staple is at 9 'o clock and crosses an imaginary line between the centre of the crank and the lower edge of the ignition cover bolt hole at 9 'o clock.

that's when to do the tappets. 1/6 of a turn and no more or less.

remember sloppy tappets only stop the decomp from working.

regards

Taffy
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March 16th, 2011, 07:06 PM   #17
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Re: Valve Adjustment and DTC +video

I need to learn how to do this on my own bike. Good thread, thanks for posting.
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April 22nd, 2015, 07:24 PM   #18
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Valve adjustment

Hi bergers so I just got a berg fe650 and I want to check the valves as the last owner did little or no maintainence.
I removed all the items and valve covers and rotated the engine to tdc with a straw so the piston is at the top and it at the rocking point also there was a sharpie line on the rotor which matched.
So the question is when I crack open the nut I expected some slack on the screw buts it's tight and would need at least one turn out to get clearance.
The bike starts and runs so it may be close. My question is am I safe opening all the screws and tight down to the touch and then use the one hex unscrew per the thread.
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April 22nd, 2015, 07:42 PM   #19
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wind the engine over 1 more time (360 deg) and see if there is some slack in the rockers

one TDC will have the valves "tight" then the next will have them "loose"

same valve gear as the KTM RFS



im not a fan of the turns method but here it is

Thanks from jmscrttndn
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April 23rd, 2015, 02:13 AM   #20
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The pitch of the adjusting screw is .75mm so .75/6 = .125mm
.75/8 = .09375mm
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