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August 17th, 2010, 01:32 AM   #1
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2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

I have just orderred a 12 tooth front sprocket for my FE390; can someone confirm that:
- it is 'turn clockwise' or 'anti-clockwise' to get the original one off, and,
- what torque do I tighten the new one up to in Nm; do I use loctite?
(my other bike a Husky 610 sprocket is held on with only a circlip)

Thanks in Advance
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August 17th, 2010, 02:32 AM   #2
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

Screw, engine sprocket
M10
60 Nm (44.3 lbf ft)
Loctite 243

Need someone else on UHE to tell you which way to turn the bolt. I can only guess Anti-Clockwise to loosen
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August 17th, 2010, 06:50 AM   #3
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

Standard anti-clockwise like any other bolt. It is really on there tight - so you do need a long bar.

From the user's manual page 87:

Screw, engine sprocket 60 Nm (44.3 lbf ft) M10 LoctiteŽ 243T
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August 17th, 2010, 07:21 AM   #4
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

I know that the 12T is a factory option, but the smaller you make the front sprocket, the harder it is on the chain. If possible make the rear sprocket bigger.

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August 17th, 2010, 07:27 AM   #5
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

Like CodeMonkey said you do indeed need a long bar, and to work out how you're going to stop the shaft turning! That sucker really was on there tight. I tried putting the bike up against a wall to stop it moving forward but it just made the rear wheel spin even with it standing on quite a grippy surface (maybe if someone else had sat on the seat it would have worked). I ended up wedging something between the wheel and swing arm to stop the wheel turning, but no doubt someone will pop up soon with a better way to do it.

The old Husky circlip is certainly easier, but I don't miss it as the splines on the shaft wore out on my TE450, probably at least partly because the sprocket is always a little loose on the shaft behind the circlip and moves about. Had to get the shaft replaced.
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August 17th, 2010, 10:28 AM   #6
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

Impact gun.
Make sure you have the sprocket facing in the proper direction. It makes a difference.
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August 17th, 2010, 10:33 AM   #7
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

I don't have an impact gun, but it sure might be worth getting one! What do you do to stop the shaft turning?
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August 17th, 2010, 10:37 AM   #8
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

Bought an eletric impact from the hardware store just for doing countershaft and clutch hub nuts. About $100 USD. Comes in handy for other things as well.
Just put it in gear, you may even be able to remove it in Nuetral. It is all with the impact mechanism, it hits so hard and quick.
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August 17th, 2010, 10:50 AM   #9
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

I wondered if it might be enough just with the shock of the impact and maybe being in gear - useful to know that for sure so I'll see about getting a gun as it would be a lot easier that way.

Of course it didn't work with a normal wrench by hand just relying on the engine to stop it turning - it turned the engine which triggered the fuel pump and that made me jump as I thought it was going to start up! Better to use an impact gun and have the shock applied to the nut rather than to me (though some would say it's hard to tell me from a nut anyway).
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August 17th, 2010, 11:07 AM   #10
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Re: 2010 FE390 Front Sprocket Replacement

Originally Posted by GregUK
I know that the 12T is a factory option, but the smaller you make the front sprocket, the harder it is on the chain. If possible make the rear sprocket bigger.

Greg
You can't go bigger than 52 teeth with the stock chain guide. You have to get the TM Designs guide. Plus there are not a lot of 54 tooth sprockets out there.

I've been running the 12 on the front for about 1K miles now with no problems.
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