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November 25th, 2009, 09:33 PM   #1
 
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09 FE450 valve adjustment

what are the specs for the valves?
what is the procedure? how do you know it is top dead centre?

pain in the butt not having a manual. Happy to take pics and do a thread on it when i know the details.

Wayne
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November 26th, 2009, 08:54 AM   #2
 
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Re: 09 FE450 valve adjustment

Originally Posted by bowser
what are the specs for the valves?
what is the procedure? how do you know it is top dead centre?

pain in the butt not having a manual. Happy to take pics and do a thread on it when i know the details.

Wayne
Check back tomorrow, mate. I am putting together a thread on the "care and feeding" of a 2010 Husaberg FE 390. Adjusting the valves is one of the items. I'll post the link here tomorrow for you.

Cheers! E-Ticket
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November 28th, 2009, 01:27 PM   #3
 
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Re: 09 FE450 valve adjustment

any luck?
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November 28th, 2009, 01:55 PM   #4
 
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Re: 09 FE450 valve adjustment

Originally Posted by bowser
any luck?
Yes! It went quite well ... changed two shims out ... and took a ton of pictures for you.
But my "tomorrow" turned into "later tonight" on posting the steps and pics .... sorry about the delay!

Cheers! E-Ticket
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November 28th, 2009, 05:46 PM   #5
 
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Re: 09 FE450 valve adjustment

Originally Posted by E-Ticket
Originally Posted by bowser
any luck?
Yes! It went quite well ... changed two shims out ... and took a ton of pictures for you.
But my "tomorrow" turned into "later tonight" on posting the steps and pics .... sorry about the delay!

Cheers! E-Ticket
haha that's fine.
what are the specs?
how do you know when the motor is at TDC, is there any timing marks?
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November 28th, 2009, 10:43 PM   #6
 
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The following is the bare minimum that you have to do to check the valve clearances on your '09 FE 450. Exchanging shims get's more involved and you have to remove the cam chain tensioner (CCT) and camshaft. Still quite straightforward - but you need all the steps including resetting the CCT.

"Checking" the valve clearances on your '09 FE 450:

1. Wash off the engine and clean any loose dirt from overhead hoses, cables, etc.
(You don't want sand and dirt falling into your engine, do you? It's easiest to do if your remove the gas tank first - but that's a whole 'nother story.)
2. Engine needs to be at room temperature: ~ 20 C degrees (68 F degrees)
3. Put the bike on a bike stand (so you can rotate the rear wheel).
4. While rotating the wheel, use the gear shift and put the bike in 6th gear.
5. Pull off the engine vent hose from the top of the valve cover.
5. Remove the valve cover (4 bolts).
6. Put a socket and a breaker bar on the countershaft sprocket (the front spocket on your drive chain).
7. S-l-o-w-l-y, using the breaker bar, turn the rear wheel forward via the countershaft bolt.
9. You should see the camshaft rotating as well in an anti-clockwise direction.

Finding Top Dead Center (TDC):

10. There is a small punch mark on the camshaft gear .... and a corresponding small punch mark on the cam tower itself (next to the small fixing bolt on the camshaft location plate). As you rotate the rear wheel and camshaft .... you should see the two punch marks begin to align.
11. When the punchmark on the camshaft gear is *directly below* and aligned with the punchmark on the cam tower.... you are at Top Dead Center (TDC)! It's that easy!
12. You can now check the valve clearances using a feeler guage:

Temperature: 20 C degrees (68 F degrees)
Exhaust valve clearance: 0.12 -- 0.17 mm (0.0047 -- 0.0067 in.)
Intake valve clearance: 0.10 -- 0.15 mm (0.0039 -- 0.0059 in.)

Record your engine hours, mileage, and your valve clearances. If your clearances are within specification ... then you're done!

13. Re-install the valve cover and torque the mounting bolts to 10 Nm (7.4 lb/ft.)
14. Re-connect the engine vent hose to the valve cover ... and take the engine out of gear.

15. Give a big sigh of relief and go grab a cold Fosters. :^)

Cheers! E-Ticket
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November 28th, 2009, 11:39 PM   #7
 
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Thanks heaps for that, will check them tomorrow after work.

those tolerances are pretty broad
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November 29th, 2009, 11:48 PM   #8
 
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Awesome.

Got any pic's to go with that excellent "how to do valves"

Thanks
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December 7th, 2009, 11:31 PM   #9
 
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checked my valves today, bike was hot
both Exhaust valves were on the limit at 0.178mm and the inlets were outside the limit at 0.19mm and 0.203mm.

how much work is it to shim it up?

Is it possible for someone with the workshop manual to scan the pages that show how to shim up the valves?
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December 8th, 2009, 04:41 AM   #10
 
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Just remove the rocker arm shafts and the rocker arms,replace the shims and then mount it back together again.
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December 8th, 2009, 05:17 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by bowser
checked my valves today, bike was hot
both Exhaust valves were on the limit at 0.178mm and the inlets were outside the limit at 0.19mm and 0.203mm.
Before you proceed with cam removal, etc, make sure to check the valve clearances again when the engine is cold.
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December 8th, 2009, 07:18 AM   #12
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The 2009 and 2010 Husaberg's are the same top end as the KTM XC4 engines, correct? If so, DJH has a great write up on KTMTalk about doing valve checks.
http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtopic=254389
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December 8th, 2009, 07:35 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Fourstrokeforce
Just remove the rocker arm shafts and the rocker arms,replace the shims and then mount it back together again.
Two important points if you use the "pull the rocker arm shaft" method of changing your shims:

A) Make sure that you that the rocker arm shafts go back in the original spot (intake versus exhaust) ... and in their original orientation (up or down). Swapping or rotating the shafts can change your valve clearances due to uneven shaft wear.
B) Be sure to properly torque the bolts for your rocker arm shafts. "Wingin' it" won't cut it.

Cheers! E-Ticket
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December 22nd, 2009, 01:11 AM   #14
 
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Checked my valves again today (09 FE450 50 hrs, 2200km's) as ii was concerned the measurements i got the other day were wrong somehow. but they were the same as what i got last time.

today (hot) i got
LHS IN = 8 THOU (4-6 THOU IS SPEC)
RHS IN = 9 THOU
LHS EX = 7 THOU (5-7 THOU IS SPEC)
RHS EX = 7 THOU

I then pulled out the rocker arms and measured the shims ready to go order some harley davidson shims tomorrow. However, i noticed the inlet rocker has some hard facing coming off it (as shown in the pics below)

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Is it common for the late model KTM's/Berg's to have this wear?
Is it still useable or get a new one?
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December 22nd, 2009, 07:48 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by bowser
Checked my valves again today (09 FE450 50 hrs, 2200km's) as ii was concerned the measurements i got the other day were wrong somehow. but they were the same as what i got last time.

today (hot) i got
LHS IN = 8 THOU (4-6 THOU IS SPEC)
RHS IN = 9 THOU
LHS EX = 7 THOU (5-7 THOU IS SPEC)
RHS EX = 7 THOU

I then pulled out the rocker arms and measured the shims ready to go order some harley davidson shims tomorrow. However, i noticed the inlet rocker has some hard facing coming off it (as shown in the pics below)

.............

Is it common for the late model KTM's/Berg's to have this wear?
Is it still useable or get a new one?
No, it's not typical or common! And yes, I would replace that puppy immediately ... and would replace the rocker arm shafts as well.

And of course, verify that your cam lobes are in good shape.

BTW, you're not checking valve clearances with the engine hot are you?
'cause they're supposed to be checked with the engine at room temperature.

Let us nkow as things progress, bowser ... as you now have our full attention!

best of luck, mate. E-Ticket
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