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August 19th, 2009, 06:04 AM   #1
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screws that hold on the chain sliding guard

on the 2008 model mine are M5, but the manual says they are M6. Is the manual wrong or are some 2008 m6 screws that hold the chain rubbing guard? Anyone worked out how not to have the lower screw cap destoyed or does it depend on the spocket used?
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August 19th, 2009, 03:06 PM   #2
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The problem I've had with the M5s on my 07 is not the screw but the washers. When the bike was new this got away from me and the slider broke and had to be replaced. The washers are too thin, and over time the cupping decreases and the slider gets loose, which makes a noise as the chain slaps it and it gets worse. It will eventually come off or break as mine did. I beefed up the cup washers, found some in the shed and reshaped them using a couple of sockets as dollys. The M5s protrude a bit more, but are still OK to get on and off if necessary.

Steve
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August 20th, 2009, 05:02 AM   #3
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. I beefed up the cup washers, found some in the shed and reshaped them using a couple of sockets as dollys.
you cheat Steve , I had to use the lathe

i only get about 3000km out of the beefed up lower ones
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August 20th, 2009, 05:37 AM   #4
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Yeah, but Bushie, you've got billet now, and I've only got a bit of steel bashed about a bit, so yours must be better...

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August 20th, 2009, 06:08 AM   #5
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yeah but yours are proper cold forged

and probably lasting longer than mine too
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August 20th, 2009, 06:21 AM   #6
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ah thanks, so it is a bit of a problem....I will see what I can work out ....so far I have beefed up the cup with copper washer under it that has cupped as I screwed down the M5. Although the copy is soft I am hoping it will act as a cushion and because it is bigger maybe the surface area will help. I needed the bigger washer as the holes in the slider had worn bigger. If the chain is adjusted per the manual (1cm from the swinging arm) the chain will still hit the lower M5 screw. The other option is to make a cup for the M5 out of some very hard plastic?
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