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March 7th, 2015, 04:12 AM   #31
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Well I am running the same KW`s as in Bushie photo and they have worked just
fine, with slightly heavier valves as well, (because they are larger than STD).

The KW spring seat is quite thick probably around 4mm, there is no way I would
put a .2mm washer silver steel or what ever under a valve spring, just stupid!
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March 7th, 2015, 04:43 AM   #32
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oh FFS dude your autism is showing

your claimed figure for seated force being 61lbs is BS! got you AGAIN !

If you still can't even measure your own springs seated force FFS how is anyone supposed to take your claims seriously

I used a DRO accurate to 0.001mm for the distance and a proform valve spring tester, my results concur with everyone else who can actually measure things.

Taffys springs have the same coil count, wire diameter, spring rate and overall length as the KTM set. they even have the same colour paint dabbed on them. only the retainers are physically different

the ktm set has a 0.4mm thick lower seat, taffys has a 0.2mm one. the difference in seated force from this 0.2mm difference is approx 3.5lbs

this amounts to 4.3% less seated force and 1.5% less peak force than the ktm duals.. just not worth the extra money.

the kibblewhites do valve bounce at 60lbs seated and 8500rpm with the stock berg cam.

however any spring set will do the same at that low value including taffys its not rocket science

this does not occur with the kws at 65lbs up to 9k, putting them a stock head gets you close to 75lbs there is no chance of valve bounce.

the Kibblewhites are designed for 400cc to 613 ktm rfs engines with a speced seated force of 80lbs and no valve bounce up to 12K

yes 0.2mm lower spring seat is still too thin its actually 8 times stiffer than 0.1 but still not good enough.. .

he is only using such a thin squashed penny under there because otherwise taffy springs ARE THE SAME AS the KTM set

attached DVSK instructions i paid nearly 100 squids for, they should be ok for generic use
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Dual Spring Kit instructions.pdf (20.5 KB, 37 views)
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Last edited by bushmechanic; March 12th, 2015 at 10:24 PM.
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March 7th, 2015, 04:43 AM   #33
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it WORKS! you're an empty vessel, just making a lot of noise, you haven't even got a sound argument!

and DO try and read what I said, I said that the KWs would be fine for all but racers!

you know, you have a dumb bigoted view on the one hand and unable to read on the other.... FFS! MY larger valves weigh less than standard so what have you been doing with yours? lead lining them!!!!

Taffy
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March 7th, 2015, 04:47 AM   #34
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I can read just fine, you've still got your figures mixed up

from page one
KTM ATV duals, seated 80lbs and 228peak
yours are 4.3% less than that seated and 1.5% less peak

what do you come up with this time?

still 40% lighter stonger and faster ?
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Last edited by bushmechanic; March 12th, 2015 at 10:25 PM.
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March 7th, 2015, 04:53 AM   #35
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my springs don't bounce. that's beacsue they are stronger at a higher peak lift. AND HOW THEY SHOULD BE!

I love the way spanner says he'd never trust 0.2mm silver steel washer but a 0.5mm (and not 0.4mm as Bushie says) factory piece of marzipan is fine.

WAL of Tosh!

I've measured the difference in seated pressure in my own springs over 0.3mm and it is over 4.5LB.

By the way you don't have the right to offer up my instructions without my permission so you're braking the law and remove them!

you used to claim the KWs were so much better and now look at you! if the KTM springs are 80 at the seat and mine are the same but 0.8 less pressure then I'm 10Lb down. I'm on 70 according to your calculations!
what a liar!

Taffy

Last edited by Taffy; March 7th, 2015 at 05:04 AM.
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March 7th, 2015, 05:01 AM   #36
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I thought you said my springs were KTM springs? yet clearly all your figures have been rubbishing mine? in all your tests mine are harder than KTM springs. YOU SAID IT!!

then you reckon the shims are 8 times harder but you still don't reckon they're good enough!

you reckon my seated pressures are harder even though they sit on thinner shims!!!! LOL!!!

your not credible, talk to my hand, your a phuqing waste of space!

Taffy
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March 7th, 2015, 05:17 AM   #37
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my springs don't bounce. that's beacsue they are stronger at a higher peak lift. AND HOW THEY SHOULD BE!
A laugh a minute

I would have thought seat pressure would be more relevant in regards to valve bounce than " stronger at a higher peak lift. AND HOW THEY SHOULD BE!"
What ever that means
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March 7th, 2015, 06:02 AM   #38
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you two must be the most unloved aussies ever. saturday night and you're in front of the computer!

nobody love you......

or just no mates! LOL!!!!

spanner, I've got a lovely one saved up for you on another thread, one of your heroes has accidently pooped on your shoes mate! he's only gone and repeated what I said!

but I'll save that one up!

Taffy
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March 7th, 2015, 06:10 AM   #39
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This is fantastic entertainment on a saturday night with a litre of Bundaberg rum on board.

Tosh, marzipan, talk to my hand, phuq phuq phuqqity phuq, 3 bags full, the cow ran away with the spoon.
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March 7th, 2015, 06:43 AM   #40
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fwiw it's quite obvious to me that Taff either doesn't understand the logic behind the arguments, counterarguments, and specifications - or he pretends not to understand them. Whichever it is has long since ceased to interest me.

It's still amusing how he never fails to describe himself to a tee when he really starts losing his temper.

What is the seated force of your spring kit? What is the peak force, and how does a higher spring rate at peak lift help reduce valve bounce? What strength properties of the shims are important, and what are those figures describing each different style shim?
Thanks from bushmechanic and spanner
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