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March 15th, 2014, 04:10 AM   #21
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Re: All About Valve Springs! (with nice pics)

PAC racing springs as recommended by FD racing



http://blaisracingservices.com/ktm/ktm- ... 0/525.html

Product Information

$179.95

Blais Racing Valve Spring Kit for 2000-2007 KTM 400/450/520/525 EXC/ MXC/ SX/ XC. Fits RFS engines only.

This Single Conical Beehive spring kit is 30 grams lighter per valve than the heavy stock dual springs. Designed by us but made by Pac Racing Springs, this is the best setup for your KTM. You will feel the power difference and your valve train will last longer. Don't waste the extra money for the extremely overpriced kits out there or the overpriced stock springs. We only sell what we use ourselves here at Blais Racing Services.

Kit Contains:

4 Pac Racing Conical Beehive Springs

4 Chromoly Upper Spring Retainers

4 Chromoly Lower Spring Retainers

Made in the USA.
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May 24th, 2014, 03:10 PM   #22
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i have good results to report with the KTM ATV DVSK.

I pulled the rocker arms out of my 550 engine to put in the 650, as the 650's ones had the bearing pins welded. Yes, welded... It cost me $80 to have them render them useless after those bearings wore out.

So, ~125 hours of use on the 550 since I did the valve springs, timing chain. I swapped the cam follower bearings out on the rocker arms. A chain tool pops the pins out of the rocker arm, and I used a punch like this to secure them:

This is an old pic... I'm going to try and make a ring punch by drilling a divot in a drift. I'll test it on my worthless rockers with the welded pins and the old pins that came out of the good rockers.

Not that this way is bad or anything, just think I'd like to do it the same as the factory, although they might use a press?





Where was I?

Oh, results.. After 125 hours I measured the pins where the needles lie. I could see some wear on the bottom of the pin. The 125 hour pin was .001" smaller than the new pin.

I set the endplay right on the rockers, adjusted the valves with the 1/8 turn method, using a very light touch when "lightly seating" the screws. *done every 30 or 40 hours.

Every valve check, before and after adjusting, I have grabbed the rocker and physically lifted it up and down to check that it has slight amount of slack. It always had a minūte amount of slack before and after.

I used Rotella T Dino oil exclusively at 7-10 hour intervals.

It seems that the dual springs do give the cfb's an easier time.
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March 3rd, 2015, 10:07 AM   #23
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I removed the valves+the old valve springs from a 650 and ordered a set of kibblewhites...
But I don't get it how to install....
Someone has a how to the instructions provided do'nt have any step by step install info and after looking for a while how I think it should be done I am confused maybe you have to use some parts from the original valve springs to make it work???....
I can make some pictures of the parts (springs) but left the cylinder head in the shop....
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March 3rd, 2015, 05:18 PM   #24
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big spacer goes at the bottom

Titanium retainer at top

need to make some room around each spring in the head and the rocker cover

speced seated force is 80lbs but will be closer to 72
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March 4th, 2015, 12:02 AM   #25
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Well the inner diameter (red cross) of the big spacer like thing is to small to go through those little round things that are fixed in the cylinder head where the valve stems go through or maybe you have to remove this???
(It would be easyr to have a picture from a cyl head with valves/springs removed to show what I mean... )
And the washer seems to big to fit I make some pics the stock valves compared to KW
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March 4th, 2015, 12:09 AM   #26
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In this order the kw springs are almost the same size than stock conical ones but the spacer has to be installed to so where/how to machine this....
Maybe I just fit stock valve springs and sell the kw kit I thought it was gonna be more plug and play like the dual valve springs from taffy
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March 4th, 2015, 07:36 PM   #27
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thats odd Husabelg the 96 - 96000 set fitted straight in my bike, nobody else has had any trouble either

maybe you have the lower spacer upside down? or its the wrong part number lower spacer ? if the ID of the lower spacer is still too small just drill or machine it out

I measured from the top of upper retainer to bottom of the valve spring cavity in the head at 37mm for 80lbs a distance 37.7mm gave me 72lbs

if you really want a set of taffy springs I'll swap the ones I have here with your Kibblewhites LOL
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March 4th, 2015, 07:52 PM   #28
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this is what my 96-96000 set looks like

note the shape of the lower retainer

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March 6th, 2015, 11:47 AM   #29
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Valve stem seal must be removed to fit bottom spacer, replace with new one's as they get damaged when they are removed they just pull off may need to twist as you pull.
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March 7th, 2015, 02:38 AM   #30
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you can't listen to Bushie

he claims that my valve springs have the same strength as the KTM ATV sets.
he claims the seated pressure of the ATV sets is 72LB
he 'confesses' that my sets aren't compressed by the same amount. by 0.8mm infact compared to the ATV sets. this reduces the seated pressure of mine to somewhere around the 61LB mark. that is just using his figures.

in the meantime he has put the kibblewhite pressures UP to 65LB just to stop valve bounce!

so now my valve springs are lighter than the Kibblewhites! that leaves peak lift!

My valve spring kits have been in the Norwegian KrossKart champions Kart for the last three years. all we do is repalce them every two seasons and he just keeps winning!

he screams the tits off that 650 (thank god it isn't a 450!) and he continues to win every year!

my kits come with instructions and are a simple fit. so let us talk facts!

I've never heard of any valve bounce with my sets because as Bushie says (and yes I'm using his figures again) the peak lift of my kit is stronger than the Kibblewhites.

a customer described to me about a year ago the condition of his valve seats using Kibblewhites - classic valve bounce problem, cause and effect.

however, am I condemning the Kibblewhites? not at all! in day to day use they are just fine! but given that Bushie in his own words has valve bounce and he's not even in a Krosskart which is screaming its tits off you'll forgive me for saying that the Kibblewhites probably aren't the best choice for a racing engine - mine are!

Bushie has done his absolute damndest to slag off my stuff but on another thread he can be quoted as saying thatmy sets are lighter than the KTM ATV sets when seated using my washers that are of 0.2mm silver steel.

now before he slags the new 0.2mm silver steel shims as not being good enough, I will say that when I started with 0.1mm shims - that they weren't strong enough but that I replaced the 0.1s with 0.2s for everyone who got in touch with me except guess who.... go on have a guess everyone! that's right - Bushie! these 0.2s are THREE times stronger and there are no problems.

another thing Bushie can't do is tell you the condition of valves and seats under even harsher conditions than that Krosskart and his 700 slug, isn't that right Bushie, even you haven't got those 'visuals' the test info etc!

Nordic champions - year after year!

and as a plug for my kit, you get three pages of clear instructions on how to fit the kit. I've sold 400-500 of my kits with no problems at all bar the shims mentioned.

let the 'tosh' begin!

Taffy
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Last edited by Taffy; March 7th, 2015 at 02:43 AM.
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