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May 21st, 2009, 07:51 AM   #1
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Another valve spring broke!

All, another spring broke, this time significant damage to engine (piston/liner etc). This is the 3rd spring to fail on me in the last year...

I recently had a race cam fitted & the ports polished to get a few more ponies.

The mechanic looking at it now has suggested there may be interference within the springs (i.e. when they compress the coil is flattend)?

Taffy, I've looked up your dual springs on e-bay, and am considering purchasing. Will these be suitable for a race cam set up? Presumably prevention of coil flattening is a product of correct height adjustment during installation, i.e. springs are not "unsuitable", only the fitment/adjustment can be incorrect?

Please advise, looking to order today if possible for delivery to the mechanic.

Thanks

Crispin
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May 21st, 2009, 08:08 AM   #2
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

I'd say that the OEM's are prone to failure due to poor manufacture in these later years. the DVSK's suit anything that isn't as aggressive as the OEM cam so if the flanks are flat or convex you are 100% good but if they are concave like the OEM cam then I'd say no as a precaution.

i have them in stock.

regards

Taffy
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May 21st, 2009, 08:16 AM   #3
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

Thanks Taffy, the mechanic believes the flanks (ramps?), are concave?

So where does that leave me, are there any springs I can get which will give me a reasonable degree of reliability (or at least better than the conical ones)?

Thanks

Crispin
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May 21st, 2009, 08:47 AM   #4
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

a race cam shouldn't have concave flanks. i'll try and find a photo of the two types. a standard cam will have any of the following written on the ends

53
55
01
08


regards

Taffy
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May 21st, 2009, 08:56 AM   #5
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

the springs i guarantee with the cam on the right but not on the left. it might work with it, it probably does work with it but i haven't tested it.

and this is my top end cam which looks very similar to the torque cam in that the cam is convex on the flanks.



regards

Taffy
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May 21st, 2009, 09:13 AM   #6
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

Thanks Taffy, I have the one that came out of the bike when the race one was fitted, which has 82-08 4/5169 on it, so "08" as you mentioned above. I can see the slight concavity you mention (see photo);



I'll ask for the code from the cam currently installed just to be certain, and ask for a closer inspection of the flank profiles.

Cheers

Crispin
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May 22nd, 2009, 09:42 AM   #7
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

Hi Taffy, the mechanic had a closer look, and the flanks are indeed convex!

Order placed through friend, so thanks for the info!

Cheers

Crispin
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June 7th, 2009, 09:19 AM   #8
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

well i finally did it! i tried the '53' cam with the DVSK today at lt hadham and after ratt;ling the revs it came through ok!

so the good news is that a DVSK can be fitted with that nasty old '53' and '55' cam going back to year dot. oddly enough the '53' pulled how i remember it and veterans of this site will recall that i at firs,t couldn't detect much difference and it was only over a few rides it became better and better. the old valve tappet racket was back, sheesh i don't miss that!

anyway, for those that simply want a DVSK upgrade (from whoever) then it seems 100% feasible in the 35/30 heads (and the 400s 35/27) as for the 01-03 37/30s well the difference is a few grammes over the 35s for the 37s. it's a really small amount. so i can't say for sure but lets put it this way...the 400 revs to heaven and the other engines (bar the 470) can't and don't rev that high? the 32mm exhausts will be good becvause my 35mm inlets are good. that leaves the 37s to test. but really - 4gms??? i can't see it.

now that REALLY proves how shyte those conicals are doesn't it!

regards

Taffy
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September 3rd, 2009, 09:32 PM   #9
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RE: Another valve spring broke!

Hi all, well I'm finally back on the road this week after this "spring break" (seems more like a "summer break" having been off the road for the last 3 months!), hence my absence.

A chap local to me did the re-build, which took far too long to sort. You live & learn...

Anyway, thanks to Taffy for sorting out a great deal on parts & doing some honing work on my piston liner, which was speedily expedited on his part!

Its still early days obviously, but wow! what a difference these dual springs make to the engine noise.... what noise??! (apart from the ridiculously loud exhaust)!

I need to run in the engine now. Anyone got an idea of approximate running hours before changing oil/hitting full revs??

Thanks

Crispin
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September 4th, 2009, 08:20 AM   #10
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Hi Crispin and welcome back after your summer break. I would run the bike on a non synthetic oil for about 30 miles or so, don't ride it like a pussy either, accelerate hard through all the gears, not to the redline line but hard, then slow down to first gear and do it again and again. Don't tootle around, you need to get some gasses behind those new rings to force them onto the newly honed bore, your 1st ride is the most important ride as this will determine how you engine performs for the rest of it's life (not long being a berg).
Then dump the oil and put in synthetic of your choice. Jobs a goodun.

Regards Freaky
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