Dragging Clutch

bokbfok · November 9th, 2020, 10:06 AM

Howdy,

I did search but it appears most threads are either never resolved or the OP never stated what correct the problem.
First off, I am new to the husaberg brand and come from a Kawasaki.
The first thing I noticed is that when the bike is in gear and not running, I can not roll it around while pressing the clutch, is this normal?
Second, when out riding for the first time, clutch behaved as I expected but as the day progressed, the clutch lever became useless. I can pull the lever and nothing happens, still have drive.
Third, when bleeding the system this weekend, with the reservoir open, when I pull the clutch lever, I can see bubbles coming up.

Here is what I have done: Rebuilt the slave cylinder. Filled with Maxima 5W fork oil. Bled using a power bleeder. Went for a ride, almost of the side of a cliff as clutch did not release. Back bled system. Rebuilt slave again using Viton oring. Back bled again. All using the 5W oil.

Current thoughts, rebuild master cylinder. Replace clutch plates.
Anything that I am missing?
Thanks!

Taffy · November 9th, 2020, 11:03 AM

yes your missing the master cylinder rebuild!!! but you haven't even bothered to tell us what you have....

you have used the wrong oil at some point. mineral is what they ask for. some have used ATF. There is a clutch m/c rebuild kit available 'as is' or to brake fluid specs. If you want to try me I have them both.

100137 convert to brake fluid. you would need to change the anti-slosh rubber as well which is 100639.
100598.
100470.

all aftermarket.

cheers

Taffy

bokbfok · November 9th, 2020, 11:23 AM

Apologies, I thought my signature was filled out. It is now, but I have a 2009 fe450.
I am pretty sure I have read here and other forums that fork oil is a suitable replacement? I guess I will change that. I have a master cylinder on the way as that was my next step but seriously considering swapping to brake fluid. I will look at what you have.
Once I have rebuilt the master and use the correct fluid, I will check back.

Thanks

Taffy · November 9th, 2020, 12:24 PM

why don't I meet people like you every day! my life would be so much easier. good luck!

Taffy

bokbfok · November 9th, 2020, 01:33 PM

Originally Posted by Taffy

why don't I meet people like you every day! my life would be so much easier. good luck!

Taffy

I try! The Magura blood will only get here end of next week, so will update then unless I can get some sourced locally sooner.

ned37 · November 10th, 2020, 08:37 AM

if you don't want to wait for magura, go to the drug store and get some mineral oil

Goose916 · November 10th, 2020, 01:39 PM

Originally Posted by ned37

if you don't want to wait for magura, go to the drug store and get some mineral oil

It's called Magure Blood because they bleed you dry!

Rainerio · November 10th, 2020, 08:35 PM

Just for your information Magura Blood it's light red is for motorcycle. Magura Royal Blood it's blue is for Bicycles. The light red is for higher heat. The blue is for lower heat. So don't us the blue on a motorcycle. Most if not all DOT fluids don't us it were Magura/mineral oil is used. Reason it will swell the rubber making it useless after 1 use.

bokbfok · November 23rd, 2020, 06:40 PM

I rebuilt the master cylinder, drained the fork oil out and reverse bled using the red magura blood this weekend. Took the bike for a ride and clutch seems to be working as it should.
Rode to work today, 8 miles each way and the clutch behaved. Thanks for the guidance Taffy! One question, on these bikes, is it hard to shift to neutral while running? I am having a hell of a time to get it in neutral. I have to kill it and then shift.

I also have a Oberon slave cylinder coming for just in case.

heidenberg · November 23rd, 2020, 07:58 PM

I feel like being tough to get in neutral while running is a berg signature feature