Husaberg
Go Back   Husaberg Forum > Husaberg Forum > Husaberg

Husaberg Husaberg Forum - Husaberg Motorcycle Forum


Thanks Tree6Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
November 4th, 2020, 10:57 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2020
From: Santa Fe, NM

Posts: 7
Thanks: 4

I Ride:
Dyno Chart for '99 FE501 with FCR41

I recently posted this '99 FE501 with a FCR41 for sale, and I thought some people would like to see a current Dyno/AFR chart for this bike. I am a tuner with my own Dyno for my Land Speed race team. I know the FCR's very well, and I spent an afternoon dialing this bike in. It has a "Big Gun" pipe as the only other engine mod.
I am at 7,000' elevation in Santa Fe, NM, so the jetting will be leaner than Sea Level by (2) steps. I use 4th gear, because it is closest to the 1:1 gear ratio, and gear drag will be reduced from an OD gear (5th or 6th). Plus, since we have 20% less air, the power typically drops off by 25% (cam efficiency drops with elevation). So, add back right at 33% more power than I show here for Sea Level.
I kept the average AFR at roughly 12.5:1, so I have some safe range down to 3,500' elevation, and up to 10,000'. It would make max power with 13:1. I used a 148 Main jet, and a 45 Pilot for this 7,000' test, but a 152 Main, and a 50 Pilot would be best for Sea Level. The mixture was best at 1 turn out. These numbers should be good for 450's up to 570's in my opinion. Enjoy!
Here's a pic of my "Twin-Scout" Altered-Vintage Land Speed racer. Dual engine, 80 year old Indian Scout motors, 240 Hp/187 Tq, and 177 MPH on the salt. It has set 14 new records. Notice the FCR41's?
Attached Thumbnails
Dyno Chart for '99 FE501 with FCR41-99-fe501-fcr41.jpg   Dyno Chart for '99 FE501 with FCR41-twin-scout.jpg  
Thanks from steve, fedge, brucifer and 1 others
jmosher is offline  
 
November 4th, 2020, 11:27 PM   #2
Member
 
Joined: Jun 2016
From: South of the crocodiles, North of the penguins

Posts: 42
Thanks: 20

I Ride:
I love mad, ingenious ba$tards.
They make the world a better place IMHO

Thanks for sharing.
383hq is offline  
November 5th, 2020, 02:54 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
From: Ely, England

Posts: 16,263
Thanks: 539

I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
Originally Posted by jmosher View Post
I used a 148 Main jet, and a 45 Pilot for this 7,000' test, but a 152 Main, and a 50 Pilot would be best for Sea Level. The mixture was best at 1 turn out. These numbers should be good for 450's up to 570's in my opinion. Enjoy!
well done mate and thank you for that. I've been running my SOP dyno for years and my sea level 400 ran a 148MJ and the best oif my tuners are down there too.

that PJ is only like that because of the needle design whereas the MJ is reliant on itself.

regards

Taffy
Taffy is offline  
November 5th, 2020, 11:34 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
thorgan's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
From: Sacramento California

Posts: 187
Thanks: 142

I Ride: "2000" FE600, 1994 FC660, 1994 FE501 (in pieces), 2001 FE 501 (in fewer pieces), 2002 FE 400
Hey jmosher, I'm curious to know what needle you've got in there (and at what clip position). As Taffy hinted, these engines seem to be quite sensitive to the needle, often requiring changes to other jets to compensate for poor needle choice. I've probably got 30 or 40 needles in my "collection" from trying to find the sweet spot for one of my 600's and I'll be sorting an FCR for a 2001 501 (being punched out to 522cc) when Thumper Racing is finished with it. However, I never had the benefit of a dyno and I'm sure my butt isn't as sensitive as Taffy's who's jet kits, in my experience, have been quite good.
Thanks from steve
thorgan is offline  
November 5th, 2020, 12:17 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2020
From: Santa Fe, NM

Posts: 7
Thanks: 4

I Ride:
Some FCR tuning

Actually, I don't know which needle is in this '99 FE501's FCR41. It was bought new from Sudco, and is likely the stock needle, and clip position. I will pull it apart the next time the gas tank comes off. Usually, Keihin made the best choice with their original needle. Needle swapping can drive you crazy, because the change in feel is so subtle. I've found it best to leave the stock needle in there, and try the various needle clip positions. This is done after you have found the perfect Main, Pilot, and mixture settings. Then move the clip to a lean position, and test ride the bike in the mid-range, like slow city traffic speeds. If the power feels somewhat flat, then richen the clip position. Test it again. Once it feels crisper in power, stop there. You can continue to richen the needle, but you won't feel any difference as it gets richer. You want the first position richer than the lean flat feeling. You need to drive test a needle position for several miles to get a good feel for the position.
On my dyno, and can drive test it through the gears gently, where I am in the needles mid-range, and watch the AFR numbers closely. I want to see between 12.8:1, and 13.5:1. I go through the gears (3) times. One slowly, one slightly harder, and the third, a bit harder. Then I can average all (3) tests to get a feel for the AFR achieved from the needle's clip position. On this '99 FE501, I was right in the middle of these numbers, so I didn't have to look at the needle.
To determine the correct Pilot jet size, you need to adjust the mixture needle to find the fastest idle when fully warm. First you turn the needle in till the RPM starts to drop. Then turn it out till it speeds up. Keep going till it starts to slow again. Turn it back in to that fastest idle position. If you are at, or very near (1) turn out, then you have the correct jet. If you are at below (1) turn out, then the Pilot is too large. If you are at above (1) turn out, then your Pilot is too small. For Amals, Mikunis. or DelOrto's you are looking for 1 1/2 turns out for fastest idle.
The main jet can be tested by the stop watch method by using a taller gear, like 5th where you can start off slow, whack the throttle fully, and time the run over a measured distance. This must be a repeatable test with the same marked off distance, and entering the start point at the exact same speed and RPM. Use a helper with a stop watch. The quickest time will be from the most correct main jet, which will be making peak power (and best AFR). Hit the throttle fully at the entry point, and have your helper, who is standing at the finish point, start the timer when he hears the motor rev up, and stop the timer when you cross the finish point. This will get you very close. This should be helpful to many of you. See Ya; Jim Mosher
jmosher is offline  
November 5th, 2020, 12:46 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
thorgan's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
From: Sacramento California

Posts: 187
Thanks: 142

I Ride: "2000" FE600, 1994 FC660, 1994 FE501 (in pieces), 2001 FE 501 (in fewer pieces), 2002 FE 400
Hmm...found a document at Sudco that indicates they use an "OCEMR" needle. Not sure if I have one of those since I'm cheap and buy used carbs off of ebay. Maybe I'll pick one up and give it a shot on the 522 when it's done.

Thanks for all of the tips, Jim!
thorgan is offline  
November 5th, 2020, 01:20 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2002
From: Snowy Mountains NSW Australia

Posts: 1,604
Thanks: 131

I Ride:
After the main, the needle is the most critical thing when tuning an FCR in my experience. I fitted and FCR39 years ago to my FE501 using Taffy's jetting as a base and it went well enough by SOP. Its hardly ridden now, but has always, post FCR, been an absolute PITA to start from cold, whereas hot starting is fine.

I acquired another FCR an MX aka Mk2 to adapt and its stalled work in progress.

In the intervening years I've got into DR650s for adventure riding, and recently sold my FE650, so my '98 501 needs to get operational again.

My DR650s have gone through FCR39s, 40s and 41s which I've set up with an O2 sensor and wideband AFR meter. The interesting thing for me was that the 39 and 41 had a happy spot with the same needle, whereas the 40 needed a different needle to get it right. I've got about 25 different needles in my shed, and there must be few hundred available.

The needle is critical to getting the part throttle rideability right, and makes no difference on a dyno for the most part.

Which means I'm curious what needle is in play, like Thorgan.
steve is offline  
November 6th, 2020, 02:42 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
From: Ely, England

Posts: 16,263
Thanks: 539

I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
Well Thorgan, he doesn't know what the needle code is so the only bit I can admire is the MJ size which is all a Dyno is there for. Even he says he finds needle shapes confusing. I used to but because SOP is free, I did my learning there.

as for EFM, go look on a chart and it is basically THEE richest, THEEEE Thorgan, THEEEEEEEEEEE richest needle you can fit. now if we work on the basis that rich is dull, rich is safe, rich is passive, rich has no coughs, splutters just shit to start warm, other than a few pops on the overrun, what do we do when we admire EFM?

I mean, I saw a window licker once open a door, do I admire him and follow him?

NO.

so a 50PJ isn't "the business". Nor is an EFM.

I just sent my new needle to the States. I was really looking forward to it being tested by what seemed a reasonably competent bloke with a KTM 660 LC4. he was one of the few in 10 years to write in.

out of 600 jetting kits;
585 x nothing, nada, zilch, phuq-all, not a sqweek.
10 x i want my money back you C**T
5 x feedback

of those 5;
3 x "it ripped my arms off.... = so your kit is only therefore just 'OK', and better than walking home...but only just"
2 x sensible feedback.

So let's be mindful of the fact that a trip to Thumpertalk reveals that all Americans are running 170+MJs even in 250s and the jet goes up as the CC gets bigger.

The KTM rider just got the following results in August;
My new design of needle
145Mj
clip 6 (not the usual C7)
32.PJ

at each stage over two months we worked his jetting down and down and it went quicker and quicker. and i was getting one off words and phrases like 'best ever', 'OMG, wheelies in 3rd'. I could go on and on. everytime he said "surely that is it" I said "no, I'll send you this for free" and he fitted it and then he'd say "way to go dude!!!!".

so I asked him at the end, now that I'd worked with him for two months and sent him stuff for free and his bike was a rocket; "would you write me a paragraph on your bike?" "sure dude"

"brilliant" I said.

"Taffmeisters new needle has improved punch at 3/4 throttle. Taffmeisters jetting kit along with the available jetting advice has allowed my bike to start easier, run smoother at lower rpm and rev higher all while using less fuel."

there you go, the most wooden goddamn awful piece of unusable junk I've ever seen.

sounds like one of those Communist leaders in the third world.

This whole showe is Phuqed I'm telling ya

Taffy
Taffy is offline  
November 6th, 2020, 07:04 AM   #9
Member
 
Joined: Jul 2019
From: southwest

Posts: 91
Thanks: 16

I Ride: 99 FE501e, FX600e, FC501
Gotta get one for the 600, maybe try this 39slant on the 501
heidenberg is offline  
November 6th, 2020, 12:54 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2002
From: Snowy Mountains NSW Australia

Posts: 1,604
Thanks: 131

I Ride:


If you look at the above graph, you'll see that the needle is critical from 1/8 to 7/8 throttle, diameter, clip and taper, and where the taper starts, and then there are the dual taper needles too, like I understand Taffy's to be. One size needle does not fit all.
steve is offline  
Reply

  Husaberg Forum > Husaberg Forum > Husaberg

Tags
chart, dyno, fcr41, fe501



Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Altitude Jetting Chart zen Service Manuals 0 March 2nd, 2017 08:50 PM
02 FE501 / FCR41- Jetting help please..... AUSBERG Fuel 2 May 13th, 2008 11:58 PM
Jetting Chart Def Fuel 1 November 12th, 2007 08:17 AM
FCR41 on 02 fe501 jeffs2200 Fuel 9 August 27th, 2007 11:16 AM
dyno chart daxdriver Mechanical 6 December 30th, 2005 02:28 PM


Facebook Twitter Google+ RSS Feed