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June 3rd, 2017, 12:00 AM   #21
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Joined: May 2016
From: Portugal

Posts: 111
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I Ride: Husaber FE 400 E 1998, Suzuki DR 350 SE 1998, XT 350 1992
Nice looking . All you need to get it started is tree wires . Red green and black
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June 3rd, 2017, 12:28 AM   #22
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From: Ely, England

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yeh, Julia's becoming a big asset here. She's been with me nearly two years and is thoroughly deicated and takes on new explanations everyday.

she says: 'what is.....' and I go around the workshop explaining almost from the beginning what is what in a 4T engine.

I'll tell her how pleased you are...you've gotta let the mule catch the carrott now and again!!!! not calling her a mule or anything....!

regards

taffy
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June 3rd, 2017, 08:14 PM   #23
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Joined: Dec 2016
From: Port Moody, BC, Canada

Posts: 66
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I Ride: Husaberg 400 FE
back-yard-butchery

Hi MX563. Just checked back to see how you are getting on. Love the scary 20 ton wood splitter bit! You do know safety glasses will not stop parts with that much power behind them, right? Husaberg cases can break at the pivot with the right combo of errors. Just sayin`.... Alas, you might have to shave the pivot shaft off flush, then drill out the remains. This job must be done on a milling machine. Don`t sweat loosing the pivot axle. Yours is so corroded it`s done anyway. Kawasaki has axles for small dirt bikes that work fine as swing arm pivots. Measure yours before cutting it, use those numbers to select the new one.
No really, it looks like you are doing most things right. Good job.
Wiring. No easy way. Decide which of 5 systems you have. Use the best wiring chart you can find. Use real auto wire and connectors, the factory used the cheapest available. Odd, as the rest is so good. If you are used to the electrical quality of a recent Kawa MXer, the Husaberg stuff will be a shock. Just science the heck out of it, and it will suddenly run fine. One hopes.
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September 25th, 2017, 07:13 PM   #24
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Joined: Jun 2016
From: California

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I Ride: 2016 Kawasaki KX450F, and hopefully a 2001 FE650E...
My apologies for doing such a terrible job with updates. This one is the important one...the bike is back together and running! I just put in a 24 mile trail ride on it last weekend. I was pleasantly surprised with the performance.

That being said, the lighting isn't all hooked up and the kickstart shaft seal leaks oil, as does the shift lever shaft seal. Oh, and also the clutch cover gasket. I pieced the entire motor back together, it runs well, but I screwed up the stupid seals. Doh!!!

Anyway, here's a short video if the bike running.
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November 20th, 2017, 09:56 AM   #25
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I Ride: 2016 Kawasaki KX450F, and hopefully a 2001 FE650E...
Thought maybe I should update this thread now that I've got a few rides in on the 650 (three rides to be exact).

Let me preface this by saying that this build took over a year. I didn't always have time to work on the bike which is why the project took so long. Once I finally got it fired up, I just wanted it gone. I wanted to sell it. I was tired of working on it. But alas, I decided I should at least ride the thing one time to make sure it was fine before offering it up for sale.

Ride #1: At first the bike felt terrible. It has a terrible stinkbug stance (feels like the rear fender is pointing at the sky), the del-orto is anything but crisp. I'm not used to linkage-less suspension, the bars were too far back (I'm 6'2"). The carb's return spring is stiffer than anything I've ever felt. Lots of compression braking too. The e-start is not installed (due in part to a broken gear) and kickstarting the 650 was difficult at times (sometimes quite easy). Generally the bike felt very crude and unrefined. Like farm equipment. But the more I rode it, the more I got used to all of its idiosyncrasies.

At the conclusion of that first ride, I discovered several oil leaks, and a head gasket leak. These issues would need to be resolved before the bike could be sold.

I tried to re-torque the head but that didn't solve the problem. So I ordered a new head gasket from Taffy. This time I went with the OEM one which had some sort of blue strip of silicone (?) on each side. I think this is important in terms of mitigating coolant leakage. That, and the higher cylinder head bolt torque (as discussed on this forum in other threads) were effective in sealing the head. As for the oil leaks, I replaced and re-sealed the clutch cover gasket, and I replaced the shifter seal and kick start o-ring. On this old 2001 'Berg, the kickstart sealing arrangement is poorly designed IMO. The o-ring solution at this location is not optimum. I believe the newer 'Bergs utilized a "proper" oil seal (lip seal). I would like to come up with a better solution for my bike. I'm not sure if a newer clutch cover will fit, or the old cover could be modified to accept a better seal (I'd love to hear some ideas to modify/improve this potential leakage point). Oh, and there was also a bit of leakage from the valve cover but that obviously needed to be resealed since I had the cylinder head removed.

I'll follow up with the subsequent rides in individual new posts. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the aftermath of ride #1...
Attached Thumbnails
2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg0629.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg0630.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg0632.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg0634.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg0635.jpg  

2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1216.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1219.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1221.jpg  
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November 20th, 2017, 12:56 PM   #26
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I Ride: 2016 Kawasaki KX450F, and hopefully a 2001 FE650E...
Ride #2:

First I played with the carb in the driveway. I think I got it jetted adequately now. Maybe not FCR level, but pretty decent for the del-orto

Out on the trail, I felt off at first. Was hating the bike again. But the more I rode, the better I felt. This time I took it on some really tight stuff as well as a few technical hillclimbs. Just generally more challenging terrain. I've got it geared really low. Toward the end of the day, I was having a hoot, and enjoyed all the looks I was getting from "the uninitiated". The bike is a lot more nimble than one might expect from a 650. It just eats up the hillclimbs too. I just get a little nervous because having to kickstart it on the side of a steep hill would not be fun.

Now for the technical stuff....I sprung a fuel leak. Turns out, the fuel tank was rubbing on the fuel line right there at the [del orto] carb. After replacing the fuel line, I rotated the carb's fuel intake port to move it away from the tank. I also added a washer to the fuel tank rubber attachment and thereby spaced out the fuel tank a tad (probably moved it about 5mm). In addition to the fuel leak, I developed a clutch master cylinder leak. I used a scotch pad (brillo pad) on a small rod in a hand-held drill to "hone" the master cylinder. Installed a new rebuild kit, and fresh mineral oil. With the fuel and clutch leak resolved, I decided the bike deserved yet another chance before I placed an ad...
Attached Thumbnails
2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1294.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1300.jpg  
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November 20th, 2017, 01:12 PM   #27
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Joined: Jun 2016
From: California

Posts: 16
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I Ride: 2016 Kawasaki KX450F, and hopefully a 2001 FE650E...
Ride #3:

Once again, things started out rough and once again, the more I rode the more I liked it. This time I attempted some really challenging climbs and I was super impressed with the bike. The "crude" nature of the bike is really growing on me and I enjoy being different.

Technical: This time I went for a longer ride so I put more fuel in the tank. I noticed a pretty significant leak from underneath the gas cap (which is a new gas cap and seal). From what I recall, this was not uncommon on the KTMs and Husabergs of the era. But what is the solution? Anybody?

I also busted one of the original handguards. I've got it zip-tied back on. But I'm thinking I'll buy some wrap-around aluminum handguards and bolt the stock plastic units to them. I find the seat a tad bit uncomfortable. I might reach out to Guts Racing to remedy that.

One annoying issue I have is that the bike starts well when hot or cold, but when it's just sort of "luke warm", I have trouble getting it fired. Anyone have any ideas?

I still have some oil leaking from the decompression lever, next to the starting mechanism. It doesn't seem as though there is any seal intended at that location. Anybody else dealing with this issue?

So after I got back from the ride, I called up Hyde Racing and ordered up a plastic skid plate. The bike came with a home-built aluminum skid/bash plate. It probably weighs 10lbs and is missing some mounting provisions. Rather than trying to make it work, I decided on the plastic one from Hyde racing. I think I'm going to order up the handguards next.

Wait a second...why am I spending more money on a bike I intend(ed) to sell?

I'm somewhat confused I guess. Been spending a lot of time thinking about other improvements. Need to get that e-start working. But I need a new "gear wheel slip clutch" P/N 250 283-01 (haven't been able to find one....do you carry them, Taffy?)

Hmmm....I dare say....it's starting to grow on me...
Attached Thumbnails
2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1408.jpg   2001 FE650E basket case - rebuild-kimg1409.jpg  
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November 21st, 2017, 12:57 AM   #28
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From: Ely, England

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it's all about just keeping working on it and improving it with each job.

I can't find that part number but i recognise the name of it and yes, we have them.

try turning the fuel screw in or out for easier starting.

the sseat is cruel and I have just imported a soft tall from guts for my 650SM

regards

Taffy
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