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January 27th, 2016, 05:53 PM   #1
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I Ride: 2011 Husaberg FE570, 2007 Triumph Speed Triple, 2010 Kawasaki Kx450Sm
Getting the Fe570 prep for next seasson. Have a couple questions.

So, I want to get everything ready on my Berg for next season. And I have a few questions.

I got my valves checked last year because of the hard starts and noise I was getting. The valves were all perfect but they replaced some spring they said was the cause of the noise. However, the noise is still ongoing. I told them it sounded like the cam chain tensioner. And I still think it is.

So I am thinking about replacing it with a DJH tensioner. How does everyone feel about these? Are they worth the $80?

Also, talked too the KTM dealer about the hard shifts. They said it was the oil I was using. "Castrol Power RS 10w50" They told me to use Motorex instead and it would making the shift into first and finding neutral allot easier.

Finding neutral is still an issue. I have never had a bike so hard to find neutral. I bled the clutch with the ridiculous mineral oil crap... "Bought two bottles just in case "

The bike is still hard to get going but I think I found the issue on that. Think my Shorai battery isnt doing the job anymore. My dash has been displaying RB. So I will try that. Otherwise, it could be a number of things.

Also, wanted to ask you guys something. I have the 70 degree aux tank. I wanted to know how well that thing would handle jumps? Went to a MX track and found my self babying it in worry the tank would break.

Its taking me allot longer to get used to the bike than I thought. The KX's feel completely different.

Last thing. My muffler cap keeps breaking loose. Every time I re-rivet it the Carbon fiber breaks. Any home solutions for this?
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January 27th, 2016, 08:12 PM   #2
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This is called, "bullshit".

Motorex oil contains small gremlins that help push the gear lever into neutral whereas castrol has anti-matter preventing it from resting in neutral. Castrol oil is said to haunt your engine, so you should contact a priest to perform a Motorex-approved exorcism.

Originally Posted by LeDelmo View Post
Also, talked too the KTM dealer about the hard shifts. They said it was the oil I was using. "Castrol Power RS 10w50" They told me to use Motorex instead and it would making the shift into first and finding neutral allot easier.
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January 27th, 2016, 09:51 PM   #3
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Finding neutral is difficult for me too. My enduro has recluse so it not so bad but my tuned I have to stop to find it most of the time. But I see it as a potential good thing as it's less likely to end up there while driving.

And the engines do rattle. The question is if your is rattling too much. I can't understand what spring they could have changed out, and I don't think it's the oil.
Maybe check the cam chain to see if it's to worn (how many hours?). I have a DJH tensioner but I removed it. The KTM is doing it's thing just fine imho and is constantly adjusting itself. The DJH is stuck in one position so it might need manual adjustments as the chain gets more worn.

I wasted some money on a Shorai. I made a post about why I never will buy another again in this forum and linked to another forum where a person who knows what he is doing tested it and explained why it is bad.
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January 28th, 2016, 02:59 AM   #4
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I vote to the dirttricks instead of DJH.
When I put motorex first time to my 650 the shifting and finding neutral became really smooth. I think you should try some different oils and then you'll know. Only the price is the problem with motorex.
And maybe you should check the aliant batteries.
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January 28th, 2016, 05:04 AM   #5
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I use Amsoil, no hard shifting, but finding neutral is always a challenge.

I use a DJH tensioner, with no issues in 4K miles, never needed to adjust after it was set.

I have the rear aux tank and have had no issues riding off-road , never motocrossed the bike though.

I've run an earth x battery with zero issues
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January 28th, 2016, 05:42 AM   #6
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FWIW I can tell the difference in the gearbox between Motul 5100 (blend), 7100 (synthetic), and 300V (fancy synthetic) in my DRZ. It's clearly less notchy with the expensive stuff.
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January 28th, 2016, 07:50 AM   #7
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For Trails riding I used the Silkolene 10-50 oil, and now the Motul 300v for the ice abuse, never had a problem finding neutral. Not saying this to imply im better or anything, its just I find this 'dark hole problem' interesting as no one seems to know why.

If the clutch has the tiniest drag it will be difficult to find N, but here it seems that is ruled out no?
Just an idea; From ducati that I wrench a lot there has been problems with the steel discs. As they come new a few of them had one of the teeth slightly bent and this rendering the same problem, long shot I know, but easy enough to pull them and make sure all teeth are straight?
Thanks from bushmechanic and tourist

Last edited by TomTom; January 28th, 2016 at 08:10 AM.
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January 28th, 2016, 10:50 PM   #8
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Finding neutral seem to be a common thing on the 70 degrees. I have the same problem. and i have drag with clutch and gear to. I was thinking of bleeding my clutch and see if i can make it slightly tighter. could it do any difference?
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January 30th, 2016, 08:28 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Palle View Post
Finding neutral seem to be a common thing on the 70 degrees. I have the same problem. and i have drag with clutch and gear to. I was thinking of bleeding my clutch and see if i can make it slightly tighter. could it do any difference?
Drag is bad here. Try put the bike over to the left on the floor and open the clutch engine cover, then pull the clutch lever while turning the pressure plate by hand and see what it looks/feels like. If a steel tooth is bent the pressure plate wont come out evenly like it should.

Other possibilities may be a too thick clutch pack or a too short push rod, but if oem parts are in there, no.
Unless you already did; Fill the clutch fluid from slave up to the master, NOT the traditional way master -> slave, and use mineral oil; Fork oil/baby oil/KTMs superexpensive oil, fork oil cheapest. You may use a syringe for this, but I find using a 1,5L soda bottle and drilling the cap to fit is just as good, keep it simple

Last edited by TomTom; January 30th, 2016 at 08:42 AM.
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January 30th, 2016, 10:27 AM   #10
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Thnx tomtom, good advice. Il do this. But i know myself. So i might as well buy new clutch plates right away. Im an unlucky one. Allways end up changing more then planned.
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