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December 14th, 2014, 12:13 PM   #1
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From: Ontario, Canada

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I Ride: 01 Husaberg fe650
A few questions

I've been busy working on my 01 fe650. Removing miles of wiring and simplifying it. Lowering the bike By revalving an f/s suspension. Trying to lighten, lower and make the bike as me friendly as possible.
Questions

1. What mode does the ignition run in when the hi/low switch is removed altogether?

2. With the shorter suspension, should I be looking for the same sag numbers as the taller FE suspension? I've got it spot on for an FE.

3. For improved handling in the tight stuff, do I run my rear wheel in a position to shorten or lengthen the wheelbase?

4. Does removing the bar risers improve leverage on the bars? Increase weight on the front?


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December 14th, 2014, 07:04 PM   #2
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I Ride: 2008 700FK, 2002 628FST
hi KFS number 4 yes increases weight on the front and makes easier to wrestle the bars.
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December 15th, 2014, 02:27 AM   #3
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I Ride: 01 Husaberg fe650
Thanks for the reply. The 650 should be a different bike next season. I found it to be very good in single track, now I'm just trying to fine tune it.
I've head different opinions regarding chain and wheel. Closer to the back, some say handles better because it puts more weight on the front. Others say, forward as far as you can because it shortens the wheelbase.
I'm not really too worried about the hi/lo switch ... The track bike I bought for parts this year didn't have one. Just curious.
The suspension I have right in the zone.... Haven't ridden it yet, but the numbers work and it feels plush.
Thanks from bushmechanic
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December 16th, 2014, 11:33 AM   #4
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I Ride: 02 650 StreetTracker, 92 K100 Special, 92 Triumph Cafe Racer.
For the Hi/Lo switch, if you find the common wire you could take it back the loom and each of the other two one at a time and see which you prefer.
Either do it with block connectors or maybe fit the switch in a more out of the way place for occasional use.

Have fun,

Carl.
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December 16th, 2014, 11:44 PM   #5
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I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
the front suspension is terrible on the Husey. you could re-work the forks for 10 years and not stop!

I have had mine apart 45 times and still improve them bit by bit. terrible items though....

you want LWB unless you physically are using your elbows against the trees.

let's have your weight and height and skill here fella please?

you have the kicked out front end so I'm going to say at the minimum get a set of cheap used run-of-the-mill 20mm offset KTM standard TCs.

run the HSCD at maximum in. that is 3 and 3/4 inwards of the 17mm nut. then the LSCD can be about halfway as well as the rebound.

the front is a total mess. if you are prepared to re-engineer the internals, pay for the knowledge (I make my living from Husabergs) then I may pass the info to you. but you need to be riding fasdt enought o see how shit they are first! the forks will cost $300CDN just to put right even with you doing the work!

get a set of SX bars. by now your ex bars will be worn out at the throttle housing so buy the SX bars. especially if you weigh 12-13 stones plus and are broad across the shoulder.

regards

Taffy
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December 17th, 2014, 12:40 AM   #6
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I Ride: 01 Husaberg fe650
5'8". 170 lbs. B level rider riding tight woods ... I can usually manage a top 3 in my age (50 plus)and skill class. Had I done any better this year I would have prob been pushed up to the the class with all the ex pros. I've changed the front triples to 18mm ktm. Revalved the front based on info here. Changed to .42 fork springs and an 80-250 rear. Rear sag is 32/95 with the lower FS suspension. The suspension feels good with the bike sitting... Haven't ridden it again as I'm waiting for rekluse parts. It does feel nice and plush as it was with the taller FE suspension.
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December 17th, 2014, 01:30 AM   #7
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I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
i would suggest you ride the bike on black top for my next test.

ride up to a corner that tightens up and use only your index and thumb. something that gets down to say 10mph at a hairpin etc.

as you kick down and through the box normally (no need to be a daredevil this time) just turn into this tight bend and say to yourself did I pull or did I push the left bar to help it?

18s would have been good on a dirt bike. I'm going to suggest that 16s are more like it? so therefore I'm going to presume that you had to pull the inside bar back a little and push the top bar?

regards

Taffy
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December 17th, 2014, 01:44 AM   #8
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Ok. Thanks Taffy. It's going to be a while before the bike gets out on the road as winter will be here by the time I get it out. I'm keeping lots of suspension notes. I'm also doing some bar research. I used to run bars high and fwd with risers but just this past season I removed risers on my race bike and went to a more "normal" bar position.... It wasn't as comfortable but, I was a bit quicker. I'll try this with the berg. I have a set of sx bars around that I'll give a try.
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