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June 20th, 2010, 01:36 PM   #1
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Looking at buying an FE

Hi all. I've just joined the forum so this is my first post, please excuse it being a bit on the long side!

I have a year-old Husky TE450 I use just for trail riding, and I'm looking to replace it soon. I'm considering the new BMW-engined TE450, but that won't be out for a while and there's no way to know for sure yet how good it will be. A long time Husky owner (and dealer I think) mentioned that his favourite bike of all was the FE390 which got me thinking. I looked at the Bergs when I bought the Husky, but the Husky comes with a 2-year warranty in the UK and the Bergs are only 30 days, which kinda put me off. Reading all the tests though, they get such good reviews that I thought it was worth looking again and my local dealer tells me that despite the short official warranty, they do replace things FOC if it was clearly a manufacturing defect and this has sometimes happened a long time after the sale. If the bike's good enough I may be prepared to take a risk on that. So:

I like the sound of the 390, but apparently they're sold out in the UK until the 2011 models arrive, which isn't too long but I'm not sure I want to wait. So I'll probably be looking at the 450 and 570. I will try to test ride both, and a 390 if they can find one for me to try (in case it's so much better than the others I decide to wait for the 2011s to arrive). I'm "solidly" built (just over 100kg in full riding kit but it's all muscle, honest) so might I be better with the 450 or 570 anyway?

I will end up doing fair distances on the road to get to the dirt, so might the bigger bikes cope with the road work better? What sort of speed can you cruise on the road on stock gearing without vibes being too bad or the engine life suffering? (the Husky will do 80+ but isn't really happy much over 50 for any length of time, so anything faster than that would be a bonus).

How stable do they steer over rock fields and really rough ground? Just wondering if that could be the flip side of being able to turn so quickly - less gyro stability from the engine could mean you get deflected off course more easily and end up turning where you didn't want to! Does that happen?

Any comments on reliability? From what I've read they seem to be pretty good, most likely better than the Husky which has had numerous things done under the warranty (so no great expense but frustrating, especially if you're without the bike for a while). Should I be worried about only getting warranty service after 30 days on an unofficial basis that I can't be sure about?

How long does an oil change take? At one every 15 hours I could be keeping busy!

Do we know yet what changes there are likely to be in the 2011 models? The dealer says nothing too significant as far as they know, but I'd hate to buy now then find out there were big improvements coming along. On the other hand, I presume I should expect a decent discount if I buy a 2010 model at this point.

Is there anything else I should be aware of? The fuel range seems likely to be a bit short for my use (I get over 100 miles on the Husky with an IMS tank and really need 60-70 miles minimum) so I'd probably be looking at fitting the sub-frame tank at least - not a huge increase but it's a neat solution without changing the bike too much.

Thanks for reading this far! And for any advice. I'm excited to test ride the bikes as I'm hoping the handling will be as sharp and the engine as good as everyone says, and I'll be hooked.
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June 20th, 2010, 01:47 PM   #2
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

Just a quick note: I can't speak for the UK, but in the USA the 2011 models will be EPA/FMVSS certified for 50 states, which should mean a longer warranty period (required by law for the emissions equipment). Maybe that will change for the UK too. Before, the 30 day warranty was because it was an off-road "competition bike".

So far, most of the changes I have heard for the 2011 is the EPA/FMVSS stuff, the CC forks, and a reinforced steering head. The CC forks would be a significant change - not huge, but an improvement.

As for fuel capacity, beyond the sub-frame tank, there are the two Aqualine Safari tanks. In total you can equip the bike with almost 8 US gallons, which should be sufficient for most purposes IMO.

The oil changes at 15 hours are for 'competition' level use. For "hobby" use you can easily stretch that to 30 hours (the owner's manual states this).

Reliability is excellent.

Your weight is above the target weight for the stock springs, so while it will still work okay, you would probably do better having the bike resprung for your weight. I am over 110 kg and the bike is okay, but I am going to have my bike resprung and revalved.

On my '09 the steering is a bit twitchy at speed, especially on pavement over 50 MPH. Off-road it is okay, but I put a steering damper on the bike and that helped a lot - even at the lowest damping setting - indeed, I am going to change the oil in the damper to get a lower rate of damping at the softest setting so I can get some of that agility back, especially on pavement where I don't need the damping at slow speeds like I do off-road - and so I will have a range of damping more to my liking (I do not use any settings above the mid-range). Also I anticipate that having the suspension resprung/revalved will make a noticeable difference.

From what I have read the geometry on the 2010 and later bikes is different from the '09 to give it more stability, and the 2011 reinforced steering head is supposed to help there too.

I love the engine on my bike - especially on the trail. It is very tractable and has power everywhere.
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June 20th, 2010, 03:39 PM   #3
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

Many thanks for the info. Obviously I'm not an expert on Husabergs (yet!), but AFAIK the bikes have been easy to plate in the UK for a while and the 2010 models definitely are as I asked about that (things are simpler here where we don't have so many independent states to cope with!). They already come with headlight, tail/brake light, indicators etc, so I don't know whether there will be any changes in that area for 2011 or whether the warranty will change. Now you've mentioned it though I'll definitely ask as it might be worth waiting for the new models if that would get me a full warranty.

I'll see how I get on with the standard suspension first, but most reviews do seem to say it's plush for the average rider so what you say makes sense. I like it to be quite soft but if it's too much I'll look at getting it resprung. I did have in mind to maybe fit a steering damper but again I'll see how I get on without it first as it struck me it would be a shame to have a really agile bike then lose some of that when you have to turn up the damping. Still, if it's mainly a problem on the road then that wouldn't be so bad if you can get the softest setting to be soft enough and just turn it down for off road. Are you using Husaberg's own damper or a different one? The Husaberg one lists at £322 here and then there's a bracket for it sold separately for another £113! This could start to get expensive... I know the steering head was changed on the 2010 models, so with the suspension set up for me maybe I'll be able manage without a damper. It will be fun finding out anyway.

I would go to the Aquiline tanks if necessary, but I'll probably see what mileage I can get with the sub-frame tank first - hopefully that will be enough and I guess it still gives me a bit extra even if I end up getting one of the Aquiline tanks as well.

That's interesting about the oil changes. I asked the Husaberg dealer about that because there's a similar frequent requirement for the Husky when racing but the Husky dealer said as I was only trail riding I could change oil every 500 miles and it would be fine. The Husaberg dealer told me that it has to be done every 15 hours no matter what, as that's what the manual says. I've downloaded the 2009 version of the manual which is the latest one on the Husaberg site, and I can't see anything about extending it past 15 hours. There are other service items which have a different period for "Hobby" use but oil changes isn't one of them as far as I can see. I'll ask the dealer again when I go in for the test rides, as I don't want to risk harming the engine but 30 hours would be much better!

Great to hear about the reliability and how tractable the bike is. I have a KTM 690 Enduro which I believe uses a similar EFI system and that's dynamite on the full power mapping, so I'm expecting great things from the FE (not as much raw power due to the engines being smaller, but if the throttle response is as good as / better than that I'll be very happy).

Thanks again.
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June 20th, 2010, 04:07 PM   #4
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

You definitely want to do the one hour, 3 hours, 15 hours and 30 hours oil changes/services, after that, if you are out of warranty it is up to you.

I ride my bike very slowly off-road and I think the service schedules are for the most severe uses - I wouldn't even count my use as up to the 'hobby' level so I don't worry about oil changes as much. I am approaching 50 hours total use now and the last time my bike had an oil change/valve check was at about 15 hours, so I am a little overdue - certainly if you subscribe to the 15 hour rule. We'll see how it goes.

I have the MotoSportz damper. http://www.motosportz.com/ I like it. It did make a difference on the trails, especially on technical trails and rock gardens and such - I find I am not so busy trying to keep up with the bike. I also have a Rekluse and LHRB, both of which help a lot. The Pirelli MT43 DOT trials tire helps and it is better on the pavement too.

I get between 32 MPG and 35 MPG with about 30 minutes of pavement to the trails, then mucking about on the trails for 2 to 3 hours, then riding home on tires that I have aired down to 8 to 10 PSI once I reach the trails. I have a 12 tooth front sprocket which took me down about 10 MPH at a given RPM (guessed at by feel since there is no tach), so since much of the actual miles (if not time) is spent on pavement combined with a lot of messing around time on trails, the bike could get better mileage. I have read that the 450 gets about 10% better mileage than the 570. I am not really too concerned - I don't ride the bike as a commuter, I am just concerned about not running out of fuel. I can get out to my local trails, ride around until I get tired and sore, ride home and then fill the tank before leaving the city to go out to the trails and each time I have about half a gallon left.

I want to get more capacity so I have more range, but I think I am wanting to get the suspension done first as the range is okay for now, but I am thinking that the suspension being resprung will be the next step in me riding better. The nice thing about the aux. tanks is you can add the sub-frame and that will take you up to 3.3 gallons. Then if you decide you need more you can add one or both of the Aqualine tanks, which can also be taken off later. I will probably do the sub-frame tank before the Aqualine tanks too, only doing the latter if I decide to do some long trip where I am really out in the boonies.
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June 20th, 2010, 04:53 PM   #5
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

Yes it sure makes sense to do the oil changes as per the book at least until the official warranty expires, so I will do that. I'm not sure yet about the 1H one but they said they want the bike back to do the 3H one as there are other things to check at the same time (valves etc) which they want to do so they'll do that oil change while they're at it. After that I will be tempted to spread out the oil changes, but I'll discuss it with them. They did say that after the first valve check, the clearances usually don't change much for quite a while so hopefully it will be just checks rather than adjustments.

Motosportz do lots of kit for Huskys too; I'll keep their damper in mind. I too have about 30 minutes on the pavement to get to the trails we use most often (there are some closer but most of my most of riding buddies live in the other direction). I can fuel up about 5 miles before the end of the outward journey and at the same place on the way back so it's really just the off road sections (and pavement in between) plus about 10 miles. Some days we ride for several hours though, and can do 80+ miles in the off road part so ideally I need 90+ miles to avoid refuelling. At a pinch, so long as I can do say 50+ I can probably manage for a while until I get an additional tank fitted; I'll just need to detour off the route to find a gas station when necessary. Luckily around here you're rarely more than 10 or 15 miles from one, but that can still be a 30 mile round trip to get back onto the trail and you've used 10-15 miles of fuel before you get started again. Course, a few of my buddies have small tanks too so when they're out to play it's not a problem as we'd have to stop for them anyway. Other days it's just me and a guy on a BMW 1200GS Adventure with a 33L tank, so I'm never going to be last to need a fill on those days! A total of 3.3 US Gallons isn't too far off the size of the IMS tank on the Husky, so hopefully the sub-frame tank will be all I need unless I decide to take up rallying at some point. Funnily enough, I also need more fuel capacity on the 690E to do decent trips so I'll be adding safari tanks to that when I can afford it.

Hadn't noticed there was no tacho - there are more options on the speedo than the Husky has, but one of the ones it does have is a digital tacho. I've only used it for checking the revs at road cruising speed just for interest sake after changing the gearing, so I won't really miss it.
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June 20th, 2010, 05:36 PM   #6
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

The one hour oil change/service/run-in they will probably do before they deliver the bike to you. Part of the setup. That is what my dealer did.

My valves have been checked 3 times; and each time they were well within spec with no changes. The dealer says that generally the new gen bikes do not have the valves change much if at all.
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June 20th, 2010, 06:25 PM   #7
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

It will be great to read your future post after you test ride the 390, 450 and 570.
I never tested first, I just walked into the shop and laid my money down on the 570. I'm not a good rider but would not swap it for any other bike.
570 is real docile down low and wild up top so I am real happy. 1st gear feels real low for the tight stuff which suits me fine.
Can't help you on the top gear cruising as I get scared around 130Kmh and it gets there real quick and does it very easy. When the front wheel starts coming off the ground you will be hooked with the power delivery.
My riding is too crap to help you with the steering over the rocks, but man there are some posts on this forum about suspension that are just amazing. For me I am impressed at the stuff you can hit and it seems to effortlessly get over them.

Reliability has been good but I have only done 20 hours
I have had 3 of the cough and stop things that all the new Husabergs seem to do, it is something that does not worry me. Just hit the starter and away you go again.
When my bike was new it was a little hard to start occasionally when hot but that seems to have gone away. Starts every time now. My mates Husky TE450 it is a pig to start and he is always friggen around with the decompression lever to start it.
There are also both bad and good reliability reports on this for forum. Some bad reports are followed up with Husaberg coming to the party, makes me even more brand loyal when I read them. There is a dude on this forum (Dustbite) running the new Bergs as hire bikes the reliability reports are great.

Oil Change is easy:
1 Bolt to drop the Bash Plate off.
Undo 2 plugs at the bottom of the engine, clean the screen that is in one of the plugs.
2 x 5mm bolts hold the Oil Filter cover on the side. Real easy spot to get to.
You are supposed to remove the Banjo Bolt on the head and clean the screen, but I only do that every couple of changes.
I use a Torque Wrench on that Banjo Bolt as I would hate to strip the thread.

Air Filter changing is so simple and easy too. Seat pops off with a pull of a cord, and the air filter is held in by a simple wire clip. I hate washing Air Filters though.

Don't worry about the fuel range just buy one of 70 Degree Racing's sub frame fuel tanks. www.70degreeracing.com
The tank does not alter the bikes original stunning looks.


I’m only a newbie on this forum so I’m not sure if it is appropriate for me to say, “welcome to the forum”, but welcome anyway.
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June 20th, 2010, 07:07 PM   #8
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

Both of you guys need springs! The stock fork springs, 4.4Nm, are for riders that weigh between 75-85 Kilos. For those weighing 85-95 kilos the fork springs are supposed to be 4.6Nm. The both of you being over 100 Kilos are going to need at least 4.8 Nm springs.

Riding the bike with stock springs, with your weight, and being under sprung by that much is going to make the bike inherently unstable, and blow through the travel on any thing much bigger than a cigarette butt, and feel harsh all at the same time. with your weight.

Moving out back, the stock shock spring is a 7.2Nm, again, with your weight you are going to need an 8.0Nm minimum.

Don't screw around wasting your time riding an under sprung bike, it isn't going to handle right, do all kinds of weird things, like be twitchy because it's hanging down in the travel, and you'll end up chasing your tail trying to fix something that you'll never be able to fix with clicker adjustments, sag adjustments etc etc, unless it's sprung right. Trust me, the difference in this bike being sprung right is a night and day difference in performance. And that's what you're buying this bike for right? Performance?

Once you get your suspension sorted, which will involve some one who knows what they're doing to re valve your suspension, and once you find a setting you should just be able to leave it alone unless your riding conditions change dramatically, say from open desert to single track trails.

The only geometry change on the 2010's was the addition of 22mm offset clamps from the 2009 19's, and the fact that the chain came shorter so that you didn't have to cut a link out of it within the first 15 hours. The steering head was not changed in 2010, and in 2011 the head was stiffened for less flex=stiffer. And the 2011's also have gone to the closed cartridge forks.

Oil is cheaper than metal. IMHO your oil should never come out black. You are talking about riding an F-1 Dirt bike. Do you really want to extend beyond 15 hours? Or for that matter let it go 15 hours? I change my oil after every time I race/ride my bike, a race or a ride is about 100 miles, or about 5 hours. I have pushed it to 200 miles when doing a fair amount of dirt road riding. It's super easy to do, and doesn't cost but $10 USD, and takes about 10 or 15 minutes max when you come in from a ride. Your motor will last a heck of a lot longer if you keep it clean inside, and not let all that crap float around in there. Think about it, you're making a lot of power from a small displacement motor that is in a pretty high state of tune, with a very small amount of oil.

The main thing you're going to want to do for road work is to mount the front rim lock 180* out from the valve stem to help even out the weight on the wheel. For the life of me I can't understand why they put the rim lock and the valve stem within 30* of each other on the wheel. Then get the wheel balanced at a shop that does spin balancing and this will really improve your "road" experience. On the rear, add another rim lock 180* out from the stocker to even out the weight, and get it spun balanced, again, this will make the ride silky smooth comparatively speaking. Not to mention the handling improvement off the tarmac.

If you're planning on doing a lot of tarmac riding on this bike, you had better look into a dampened rear hub or you're going to be looking at transmission problems down the road. There's a reason the FS 570 comes with a dampened rear hub.

As for fuel capacity, the sub frame tank will be going into production this next week. I am going to be updating the thread in the Vendors section tomorrow with some pics. So that will give you another gallon. I get about the same mileage as Code when riding in the desert, 32-35, same as my 04 550. Riding single track up high, around 3000 to 4000 meters I was getting around 44 mpg, with a little road work 6 miles, some jeep road maybe 6 miles, and all the rest single track, on this trip I did 55 miles on 1.25 gallons. On another trip out in the desert, at 1000 meters riding mainly on hard pack trails and some dirt roads I got 72 miles out of a tank without running out.
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June 20th, 2010, 08:00 PM   #9
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

Originally Posted by DaleEO
Both of you guys need springs!
Yup - definitely high on my list of things to do. In Seattle we have a shop that is very well respected and I plan on sending them my suspension soon. It just takes a little while for me to force myself to spend $600 to have it done when I am unemployed, but then I do need to to it to properly enjoy the bike, so I guess I just need to bite the bullet and do it.

If you're planning on doing a lot of tarmac riding on this bike, you had better look into a dampened rear hub or you're going to be looking at transmission problems down the road. There's a reason the FS 570 comes with a dampened rear hub.
I take it pretty easy when I ride pavement to the trails, but it is at least 20 miles each way each time I ride. If/when I get SM wheels, the rear will have the cush hub. There is the debate about whether the new models have a damper built into the transmission/clutch somewhere - I have seen that mentioned a few times:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12190&start=0

As for fuel capacity, the sub frame tank will be going into production this next week. I am going to be updating the thread in the Vendors section tomorrow with some pics. So that will give you another gallon. I get about the same mileage as Code when riding in the desert, 32-35, same as my 04 550. Riding single track up high, around 3000 to 4000 meters I was getting around 44 mpg, with a little road work 6 miles, some jeep road maybe 6 miles, and all the rest single track, on this trip I did 55 miles on 1.25 gallons. On another trip out in the desert, at 1000 meters riding mainly on hard pack trails and some dirt roads I got 72 miles out of a tank without running out.
One thing I have noticed after filling the tank - after a very short time, just a couple of miles, the gas settles in the tank despite my jostling the tank during filling - so much so that it cannot be accounted for by fuel consumption. I assume there is an air pocket at the rear of the tank that only fills after a short ride.
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June 21st, 2010, 03:27 AM   #10
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Re: Looking at buying an FE

Originally Posted by Davo
I have had 3 of the cough and stop things that all the new Husabergs seem to do, it is something that does not worry me. Just hit the starter and away you go again.
When my bike was new it was a little hard to start occasionally when hot but that seems to have gone away. Starts every time now. My mates Husky TE450 it is a pig to start and he is always friggen around with the decompression lever to start it.
...
I’m only a newbie on this forum so I’m not sure if it is appropriate for me to say, “welcome to the forum”, but welcome anyway.
Thanks for the welcome! My TE450 used to do the cough and stop so it's not new to me, but it can be a literal pain if you're half way through climbing over an obstacle! It almost never happens since I fitted the Ti exhaust system and race ECU, so it is fixable on the Husky if you spend enough money (that's not why I fitted them, it was just a nice little bonus). If you're mate's bike is an EFI one, the only time I've known them difficult to start is when the water temperature sensor has failed (I've had 4 die in a year as they had a bad batch of them). It won't always show FAIL in the dash as it depends how it fails - it most often sits permanently at a high but acceptable temperature so the EFI just thinks it's starting a warm engine, which doesn't work well when it's cold and I often found that pulling/releasing the decomp lever while turning it over helped so it sounds like the same problem. Once warm it then starts ok-ish, but the fan wouldn't run if the engine overheated as it wouldn't know, so ideally it needs fixing. Worth checking it out on the iBeat software if it is an EFI bike.

I guess 130Km/h would be enough! If I could cruise at anything over 100Km/h I'd be happy. Oil change sounds easy enough, so I'd probably do them every 15H as per the manual - the cost isn't an issue, I'd just be reluctant to keep doing it so often if it took 2 hours. DaleEO: I was asking about extending it because my Husky dealer (who is also the UK importer) said the periods in the manual really are intended for race use as it too is a race bike, and for trail riding there was no point doing it that often - the 2-year warranty isn't invalidated by doing it every 500 miles for trail use so that tells you they don't think it's a risk. The oil never came out particularly dirty and all four filters were always quite clean. If the Husaberg dealer tells me it really does need to be done every 15H on the FE then it will be. BTW, it will cost more than 10 USD here - the oil change kit is £12 and that doesn't include the oil (probably another £10 or more I'd guess so something like 35 USD total); not a problem as it *will* get done as often as necessary regardless of cost, but it does start to add up if you do that after every ride.

The air filter looks if anything slightly easier than the Husky - I don't mind washing/oiling the filter and it does get changed after every ride (I keep a spare which gets washed during the week so it's always ready).

DaleEO: noted about the springs, thanks for the info. I'll discuss it with the dealer as they have a race team, so I guess they'll either have someone in house who does suspension or someone outside they normally use. If I can get the bike quickly it will probably be on the stock suspension to start with so I'll get a chance to see how undersprung it is for me, but most likely I will get it resprung/revalved as soon as time/money allows.

I have the Husky's wheels spin-balanced and will do that on the FE too, as it's really noticeable otherwise at road speeds. I've seen it suggested that having the lock and the valve close together makes it easier to fit the tire, but I'm not convinced it's necessary and as you say it doesn't help with the balance. Like CodeMonkey said, I've seen it discussed that there is some sort of cushioning/damping in the transmission near the clutch - if so what is that meant to do and how effective is it? I won't be dual-sporting it so no really long road trips, just getting to and from the dirt but it does need to cope with maybe 30-40 minutes at a time on the road. Glad to hear the sub-frame tank's about to start rolling out! Good timing for me and it sounds like it could give me a big enough range for most rides (of course it will take the usual 6 months to get through UK customs but no avoiding that I guess).

CodeMonkey: Re the air pocket in the tank, does it help if you fill up, do a few wheelies next to the gas pump to shake the air out, then top up again?

Or is it like some tanks where the bit at the top near the filler neck actually has a very small cross-sectional area and so drops very quickly when you first start using fuel? My 690E tank's a bit like that with a flat section just below the filler neck which only holds a very small amount of fuel so it soon drops below that into the main (wider) section of the tank when you start riding.

Lots of useful info, thanks guys!
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