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Fuel Fuel Delivery

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March 6th, 2019, 04:42 AM   #1
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fuel pump, TPS or what???

2011 FE390, been running hare scrambles all year no problems, ran one last week, bike stalled about 10 times on practice lap, would start again after a few minutes of waiting on side of track. When I bought my bike it appeared original owner did all the preventative stuff for bike's known quirks. Have fan on radiator, have heat shield on tank, exhaust wrap, etc... So I've been all over internet trying to see where the fuel pump is, all I get is KTM videos showing fuel pump bottom of tank. But mine is a 70 degree motor and original tank so is it behind the regulator under 4 bolts. I can't pull out the filter from the small hole to get to the pump. I also noticed there was some white painted writing (can't make out writing) on the regulator plate so I wonder if previous owner had pump replaced. I did lay the bike down in practice. Does this sound like a pump issue or TPS? Track guy that helped me knows these bikes said it sounded like a pump issue. So do I not need to pull the gas tank to change the pump?? As I said I can't get the large fuel filter out of the little hole from regulator mount. Is something else holding pump down inside, I'm getting resistance when I pull on hoses, etc...160 hours on bike

Last edited by taamatrix; March 6th, 2019 at 05:08 AM.
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March 6th, 2019, 08:22 AM   #2
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I Ride: 2011 Husaberg FE390, KTM 990 Adventure
It sounds enough like a fuel pump & system issue that that's the first place I would start. The tank has to come off to get to the fuel pump. See the link below for Husaberg 70° manuals. There is a 2009 450/570 repair manual in the folder but that shouldn't be an issue for the info you're after.

Last edited by jdubb75; March 6th, 2019 at 08:25 AM.
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March 6th, 2019, 02:10 PM   #3
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My guess is fuel pump, as dodgy fuel pumps where apparently on the pre-Oct 2011 model 70* bergs. Apparently good pumps on 70* bikes made after that date. Somebody mentioned that there's supposedly a thread around, I think somewhere on Unofficial Husaberg about identifying if you have the original crap pump or it has been replaced. I've got a 2010 FE450 and a local shop replaced mine last year at the same time I was having some other work done. Hope this helps.
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March 6th, 2019, 02:34 PM   #4
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fuel pump, TPS or what???

Bad pump has a black cap, good replacement factory pump has a brown cap:

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March 6th, 2019, 07:27 PM   #5
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So I pulled my pump and it has the brown cap and someone put there name in white paint on tank so it was probably changed. We'll see if it was the pump or not I replaced it anyway with an aftermarket. Maybe the brown ones are good for a while, but not forever. I was wrong about the hours I stated up top. I have about 70 hours
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March 7th, 2019, 12:33 AM   #6
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What you need to do first before anything is all the service items. Its hard for people to advise whats the issue if you havent plus it shows respect to those that you seek help.

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March 7th, 2019, 04:17 AM   #7
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What fuel filters do you have, and what condition are they in?

I believe stock setup is filter in tank pre-pump, then filter in injector.

The filter in the injector is, well, a bad design. The little filter will always tend to clog or block, and is also hard to get at and clean.

The suggested solution is to put an inline quick-disconnect filter (I got a Golan Super Mini: 10 Micron, KTM & Billet Fuel Filters in California | Golan Products) and completely remove the small gray or black filter in the injector.

(I'm repeating info I got from Jon Andersson on here! - Thanks! - There are a few useful posts on this.)
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March 7th, 2019, 11:16 AM   #8
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Have a FE390 - 2010. Mine started to do the same thing last summer - ran fine when cold, but started to stall/flameout at technical/low rpm speeds and idle poorly when warmed up.

The first and easiest thing to check is the plug and plug cap as the 70 degrees are hard on them. Check the resistance on the plug cap. It should be 5K ohms. Mine was infinite. I have replaced it. As engines warm, the plug cap (or wire from the coil) will increase resistance markedly. This will cause the misfire and stall. It's a classic. Its the easiest and first thing you should check.

The second is adjust the TPS to .61v. mine was low - .57v

Third - Are your valves adjusted - too large a gap -particularly on the exhaust valves) will cause this (apart from not being good for the valve stems)?

I pulled my fuel pump, but could find no evidence of clogging or the "white stuff" that people have reported on a failing pump. Don't know if it was replaced before I bought it.

I will let you know if this fixes the issue when I have the time to ride it again! Good luck. Get back if you find a solution. Cheers BMR
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March 7th, 2019, 12:47 PM   #9
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It is my feeling that the heat management issues these bikes have cause persistent cavitation at the fuel pump inlet. Over time this damages the impeller which in turn causes fuel pressure/supply issues and a lean condition. The lean condition causes elevated EGTs which then dumps even more heat into the fuel tank compounding on the issue.

The CA Cycleworks primary improvements over OEM are to the inlet and impeller. This would fit with the above theory. The in tank Mahle filter also ends up turning black within hours of use. I suspect this is material being knocked off internal pump components by cavitation.

Do everything you can to keep heat out of the fuel supply and make sure there is not an underlying issue causing the bike to run lean.
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Last edited by NoClassic; March 7th, 2019 at 02:54 PM.
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March 7th, 2019, 02:35 PM   #10
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Some 2011 had that small inline filter retrofitted. Easy to check, easy to change or remove and might be the culprit..
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