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July 16th, 2020, 12:51 AM   #11
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From: Ely, England

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I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
I thought I'd show a couple of interesting mods that (typically) Husaberg never did to their bikes but others have.

the photo through the carb is of a Husky PHM carb but they used the alloy slide and you can see the ditch in the front face for the accelerator pump to operate.

so look carefully at the back to the left of the needle, a Husky cut out a notch. this forces the air mostly under the middle of the slide and then around the atomiser WHICH IT HUGS and then leaves via the middle. this means valuable fuel fuel is being sucked, lifted and carried out by air that never strays far off the middle path.

The second photo is one of three I have marked "strauss" so i trust he was an Austrian composer that had a Husaberg in 1784.....

In his photo, he's doing the opposite and spreading the air out "away" from the middle. those cutaways look quite tall but think about it; the venturi is ROUND and therefore the curve 'upwards' of the venturi means this will only appear as a tiny curved slit. like a 70s 'smiley'!

My money is on Husky having it right.

it would be interesting to compare the 'round' atomiser bush versus the 'bishops mitre'.

Taffy
Attached Thumbnails
FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-husky-atomiser-bush.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-strauss-slide-underneath.jpg  

Last edited by Taffy; July 17th, 2020 at 12:12 AM.
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July 27th, 2020, 10:44 AM   #12
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Whilst developing the perfect needle I have had cause to thicken the tip or 'root' of the needle. i dipped it twice in a pot of laquer and then cooked it for an hour before turning smooth and round in the drill with P600.

once it proves itself to work - even once, it goes into the next redesign.

Taffy
Attached Thumbnails
FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-mk-3-special-1.75-tip-close.jpg  
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August 1st, 2020, 11:20 PM   #13
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Well that thickened tip wasn't needed in the end.....

Those who have had the bergbooster kits will know that the needle chosen needed to be in clip SEVEN, yup SEVEN!

I have been having three additional clip grooves added but everything has to start somewhere! when I was out testing one day it dawned on me that I needed the needle lifted higher than clip 4 so I looked around for anything on the;
bike I could use - nothing!
myself - nothing!
among my sparten tools and rucksack....not a sausage!

so all i could do in the end was 'eat the box that feeds you'!

regards

Taffy
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FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-raising-needle-cardboard.jpg  
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August 8th, 2020, 11:41 PM   #14
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thought I'd pass on some more handy tips for when working on a dell orto carb - especially on the 501 or 550. note the photos below and an amazing little spanner that American customer sent me F.O.C years ago as a thank you. (it wasn't bushie....)

with this spanner and a 1/4" drive 3mm allen screw I can get the Air Filter Adapter (AFA) off to do the air jets and also get at the pilot and choke jets.

indeed if I had a "fat" flat-bladed sscrewdriver end it would do the MJ as well.

an amazing friend!

when removing the floatbowl on the 501/550 you do the opposite of logic, you push the base ever-so-slightly away and the FB clears the choke jet....sweet!

Taffy
Attached Thumbnails
FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-handy-spanner-dell-orto.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-float-bowl-clears-choke-jet.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-special-spanner-dell-orto.jpg  
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August 10th, 2020, 12:50 AM   #15
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while working with the K series needle i discovered one serious floor in the design. so each needle I work on now has to have material removed.

I tried the drill in the drill stand and upright but you have no control and can see nothing. so the drill is now in the vice.

I mark the area I want to rework by scratching a deep line top and bottom. as I rub it down, the sharp (not very aerodynamic) edges come off.

Dell Orto, IMHO make not 100 x 'K' series needls but only a handful, then harden them, THEN grind them down into shape and polish. that is why you can see the codes are clearly added afterwards.

THIS MEANS YOU CAN RUB A LOT OF MATERIAL OFF. THERE'S LOTS OF IT.

I use a steel ruler just 12.8mm wide and P400 wet and dry. I use WD40 and have constant use of the vernier. we're talking here of taking NOT a tenth of a MM off but just a HUNDREDTH of a mm off.

I then finish by polishing the needle with Brasso. you can see the tin of Brasso behind me in blue and white. Note in the big photo that the vernier is never far away!

Taffy
Attached Thumbnails
FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-altering-needle-profile-2-.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-altering-needle-profile-1-.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-altering-needle-profile-very-close.jpg  

Last edited by Taffy; August 10th, 2020 at 12:58 AM.
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August 25th, 2020, 12:45 AM   #16
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If testing and wanting to know which area of the jetting you're in you could do worse than increment the throttle grip like I do here. The Husaberg throttle (standard) works over 45 degrees. you probably think that it is evenly spread but it isn't.

The throttle cam works harder at the beginning and opens the slide further than it does later giving refined low speed throttle control. The 'throttle cam' as it is called, starts 13mm from the inside radius of the grip but ends 17mm from it.

the throttle only just goes to WOT even if you have virtually no slack. so make sure you have virtually no slack! oil and grease the throttle assembly.

I attach a drawing of another throttle cam. having played with the G2 throttle cam I can vouch for how good the correct cam is.

Taffy
Attached Thumbnails
FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-incrementing-throttle-movement.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-throttle-tube-cam.jpg   FE501e 2001-2003 Performance Jetting Kit-wrong-drawing-throttle-cam.jpg  
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