Taffy

I thought I'd show a couple of interesting mods that (typically) Husaberg never did to their bikes but others have.

the photo through the carb is of a Husky PHM carb but they used the alloy slide and you can see the ditch in the front face for the accelerator pump to operate.

so look carefully at the back to the left of the needle, a Husky cut out a notch. this forces the air mostly under the middle of the slide and then around the atomiser WHICH IT HUGS and then leaves via the middle. this means valuable fuel fuel is being sucked, lifted and carried out by air that never strays far off the middle path.

The second photo is one of three I have marked "strauss" so i trust he was an Austrian composer that had a Husaberg in 1784.....

In his photo, he's doing the opposite and spreading the air out "away" from the middle. those cutaways look quite tall but think about it; the venturi is ROUND and therefore the curve 'upwards' of the venturi means this will only appear as a tiny curved slit. like a 70s 'smiley'!

My money is on Husky having it right.

it would be interesting to compare the 'round' atomiser bush versus the 'bishops mitre'.

Taffy

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Taffy

Whilst developing the perfect needle I have had cause to thicken the tip or 'root' of the needle. i dipped it twice in a pot of laquer and then cooked it for an hour before turning smooth and round in the drill with P600.

once it proves itself to work - even once, it goes into the next redesign.

Taffy

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Taffy

Well that thickened tip wasn't needed in the end.....

Those who have had the bergbooster kits will know that the needle chosen needed to be in clip SEVEN, yup SEVEN!

I have been having three additional clip grooves added but everything has to start somewhere! when I was out testing one day it dawned on me that I needed the needle lifted higher than clip 4 so I looked around for anything on the;
bike I could use - nothing!
myself - nothing!
among my sparten tools and rucksack....not a sausage!

so all i could do in the end was 'eat the box that feeds you'!

regards

Taffy

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Taffy

thought I'd pass on some more handy tips for when working on a dell orto carb - especially on the 501 or 550. note the photos below and an amazing little spanner that American customer sent me F.O.C years ago as a thank you. (it wasn't bushie....)

with this spanner and a 1/4" drive 3mm allen screw I can get the Air Filter Adapter (AFA) off to do the air jets and also get at the pilot and choke jets.

indeed if I had a "fat" flat-bladed sscrewdriver end it would do the MJ as well.

an amazing friend!

when removing the floatbowl on the 501/550 you do the opposite of logic, you push the base ever-so-slightly away and the FB clears the choke jet....sweet!

Taffy

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Taffy

while working with the K series needle i discovered one serious floor in the design. so each needle I work on now has to have material removed.

I tried the drill in the drill stand and upright but you have no control and can see nothing. so the drill is now in the vice.

I mark the area I want to rework by scratching a deep line top and bottom. as I rub it down, the sharp (not very aerodynamic) edges come off.

Dell Orto, IMHO make not 100 x 'K' series needls but only a handful, then harden them, THEN grind them down into shape and polish. that is why you can see the codes are clearly added afterwards.

THIS MEANS YOU CAN RUB A LOT OF MATERIAL OFF. THERE'S LOTS OF IT.

I use a steel ruler just 12.8mm wide and P400 wet and dry. I use WD40 and have constant use of the vernier. we're talking here of taking NOT a tenth of a MM off but just a HUNDREDTH of a mm off.

I then finish by polishing the needle with Brasso. you can see the tin of Brasso behind me in blue and white. Note in the big photo that the vernier is never far away!

Taffy

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Taffy

If testing and wanting to know which area of the jetting you're in you could do worse than increment the throttle grip like I do here. The Husaberg throttle (standard) works over 45 degrees. you probably think that it is evenly spread but it isn't.

The throttle cam works harder at the beginning and opens the slide further than it does later giving refined low speed throttle control. The 'throttle cam' as it is called, starts 13mm from the inside radius of the grip but ends 17mm from it.

the throttle only just goes to WOT even if you have virtually no slack. so make sure you have virtually no slack! oil and grease the throttle assembly.

I attach a drawing of another throttle cam. having played with the G2 throttle cam I can vouch for how good the correct cam is.

Taffy

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Taffy

https://www.taffmeisters.co.uk/produ...oducts_id=3491

A nice readable quote here from one of my customers. Thanks to Bastion for reporting in. This is it verbatum;
Quote; “Brilliant kit and advice and expertise from Taffmeister! Solved jerking throttle response, bike bogging and backfire issues for my FE 501 2002. I have yet to complete the last step of the re-jetting/refurb of the Dellorto carb from the Berg Booster Kit (reduce Pilot Jet from 58 to 45 and Pilot Air Jet from 100 to 40) but already a massive difference, night and day, compared to default/factory carb settings.

My issues were: bogging on acceleration and then stalling after 10-15min of riding, would not start again. Jerking and skittish throttle response on acceleration. A lot of deceleration backfire. Uneven power distribution when transitioning through the gears.

Before you buy: Make sure your issues are carb related or this kit might not solve your problems i.e. your engines timing is correct, the valve clearances are in spec, no vacuum or air leaks from carb/cylinder/exhaust etc, carb is receiving enough fuel, float height is correct and that you have spark!

More detail: My Dellorto had 38 Pilot Jet and not the standard 35 Pilot Jet, everything else was factory settings. The carb was cleaned thoroughly had no blocked jets or passageways. Fiddled with float height and needle clip settings but nothing solved the bikes issues. I installed the Berg Booster Kit and I am now singing and dancing. Installation of jets, needle, etc. was very straight forward. Increasing the mouth of the slide (4mm to 6.5mm) requires a bit more courage but nothing insurmountable. You will need a vice, a metal file, a Vernier calliper (I used a digital one), wet and dry sandpaper (P400 with WD40), steady hands and patience, as you do not want to rush this step. After installation the bike initially did not want to start, even with choke (I have the manual choke leaver next to the clutch leaver). Fuel Screw was at 1 turn out and Idle Screw was on 0 (not affecting slide height). I then started turning the Idle Screw in by half turn increments. Got some response after 2 turns in. Bike started easily on 3 turns in with a bit of choke. Currently runs smoothly with Fuel Screw on 0.5 turns out, Idle Screw on 2.5 turns in, Pilot Jet 58, Pilot Air Jet 100, Main Jet 185, Needle Clip on 7 (nearest to the tip/bottom of needle). I live right next to the ocean and did this on a cold dry winters day in December. I expect Idle Screw and Fuel Screw settings to slightly change for the summer and perhaps Needle Clip set to 6 (a bit leaner) rather than 7 (richest setting). I still have to change the Pilot Jet to 45 and reduce Pilot Air Jet to 40, to further improve fuel consumption and fine tune the bike (not an absolutely necessary step but why wouldn’t you!?). Thanks again to Taffmeister for putting in all the initial hard work, for creating this carb tuning kit, all the advice and tips and tricks given via telephone!”

cheers

Taffy

rikschipp

Thought you were retiring, Taf?! Working on Xmas eve?! Hope you had a good one!!!
Rik