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November 19th, 2017, 05:45 AM   #11
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Husabutt, thanks for the reply.

I realize that FrankMXparts, JetsRus, keihin-fcr, tokyomods, etc., sell these type of parts, aftermarket, for the FCR. I have checked all of those vendors, they do not sell the mid body gaskets that my FCR needs.

Neither of the gaskets in the pic you posted are the correct gasket for my FCR.

Which is why I stated "I cannot find a vendor that sells the mid body gasket for my FCR."

Does anyone know of any other vendors that sell these gaskets?

Or where I can find a comprehensive listing of all FCR MX "generations" information? Basically, a manufacturing history that correlates the ID number stamped/etched on the mid body flange to the parts contained details.

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by husabutt View Post
Keihin doesn't sell them. You have to go aftermarket.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mid-body-ga...JZ0gzY&vxp=mtr



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November 19th, 2017, 09:45 AM   #12
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As far as I know there were only 2 generations of the FCR. The original Flat CR (had no choke and was originally designed for multi carb street bike usage) and the FCR MX.

The lower gasket in the drawing looks correct to me for your usage. Parts drawings are never spot on.

A good part of my day is spent writing auto collision damage estimates and it is almost appalling how bad some of the parts drawings are in the estimating guides.
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November 19th, 2017, 10:39 AM   #13
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I thought as well. I have a new one on hand. It is waaaaaay off. Cut and splice it in multiple places off. The upper gasket is not correct for my carb either. The biggest tell for both is the o-ring that is molded into the gasket, and where the 2 intersections to that circle occur. And, the 2 inner sealing oval(s) are dimensioned wrong. And that "kit" is missing 4 small o-rings and another molded o-ring "bubble" gasket for the part that the slide straddles (called the slide tower), all of which are needed when you disassemble the carb at this flange. JHFC...

It's %$#@$$%$@ing frustrating that it's this hard to buy the correct gaskets (molded o-rings) for this $@@##@#$ing carburetor. At the $$ this stuff goes for, it should be extreeeemly easy to get it all exactly right. IMO.

I'm pretty sure those are photographs of gaskets.

I have emails out to 7 vendors that sell such, maybe I'll get lucky with an ID from one of them.

Originally Posted by husabutt View Post
As far as I know there were only 2 generations of the FCR. The original Flat CR (had no choke and was originally designed for multi carb street bike usage) and the FCR MX.

The lower gasket in the drawing looks correct to me for your usage. Parts drawings are never spot on.

A good part of my day is spent writing auto collision damage estimates and it is almost appalling how bad some of the parts drawings are in the estimating guides.

Last edited by wescat; November 22nd, 2017 at 01:25 PM.
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November 19th, 2017, 12:20 PM   #14
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I think there are three generations of FCR casrb.

there was the Mk1 which was very downdraught in design and had a rubber gaitor on the right side. this carb is very narrow.
then there was the MX carb in the early noughties.
then finally there was what i term the production carb or 'proddie' carb. this has a one-piece body and no curved inlet flange. this carb is very wide.

regards

Taffy
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November 20th, 2017, 05:22 AM   #15
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Documentation, hope it helps someone.

1. All of these images make for good reading prior to rebuild: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/keih...views&page=all
2. This post makes for good reading prior to rebuild: http://www.djhcyclesport.com/carb101
3. As does this one: http://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?171766-AC-Pump-101
4. Most of the exploded diagrams for this carburetor on the www are fuzzy as hell. This one is clearer: http://216.104.185.253/images/carburetion/FCR-MX.gif
5. The following vendors sell Keihin FCR MX parts, direct to users, in the USA:
a. Tokyomods.com
b. Jetsrus.com
c. Jdjetting.com
d. Frankmxparts.com, they ship out of the Netherlands, and list most of their parts on eBay.
6. IMO, the best kit value is this, but it does not reseal the mid body. At $50 it is a good value: https://tokyomods.com/shop/fuel-air/...rb-o-ring-kit/
7. There are many mid body gasket “kits” available. The “Athena Gasket Kit for Dual Spray Venturi Jet Kit P400 000 500 001” is $20 on Amazon, it has both of the currently available mid body gaskets plus the rectangular o-rings for the bowl vents, but you do not get the bubble gasket.
8. Make sure that the tiny orifice in the accelerator discharge nozzle jet is clear. I stuck a vacuum hose on it, dipped it in soapy water and blew soap bubbles to check mine.
a. This small brass part is not shown on any exploded diagram that I have found. It is shown here, upper split half, the slotted brass circle: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/75676627
b. and here: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/130398239
c. and here: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/130366629
d. Although it has a screwdriver slot, it is not threaded into the carb body. At least, mine wasn’t. It’s a light interference fit.
9. If you have a FCR MX that has a removable (with 2 screws) inlet funnel (the flange that connects to the air filter boot) you cannot, as of this writing (11/20/2017), buy the correct gasket to reseal the mid body flange. You have to buy a gasket that partially fits and modify it. All of this is documented pretty well by jdjetting.com starting at this image: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/140910519
10. The mid body flange gasket consists of a perimeter seal with 2 oval partitioned seals inside of and attached to the perimeter seal, and the slide tower uses a bubble seal. The 2 vent towers use rectangular o-rings.
11. I’ve read the threads detailing repairing the wheel grooving caused by the throttle valve. And some guys shim between the plate and the valve. My carb had no wheel grooving in it (well, maybe 0.002”). IMO, all you need to do is:
a. Make sure that no part of the throttle valve, without the vacuum release plate, touches/drags on the engine (downstream) side of the rectangular cross section bore that the throttle valve reciprocates within. Hold it horizontal, to the light, stroke the valve through its range of motion, observe.
b. Make sure that the vacuum release plate sliding surface is smooth. Mine was not. I surfaced mine on a glass plate with a piece of 600 wet or dry. It didn’t take much.
c. Make sure that the carburetor surface that the vacuum release plate slides on is smooth. Mine had long scratches from use. I surfaced mine using a 1/16” piece of steel plate with a piece of 600 wet or dry. It cleaned up quick.
d. Perform b. and c., above, to improve the seal and minimize sliding friction between the 2 surfaces, not to perfect them.
e. Make sure your vacuum plate lip seal is intact and properly oriented: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/133895321
f. Be careful not to install the vacuum release plate upside down, which is possible. The hole goes down.
12. A new Keihin FCR MX 41 float, part number 1052-856-2100, (SKU # 018-202) weighs 12 grams.
13. Check the accelerator pump spray pattern dynamically before installing the carb. The spray stream should be decently centered in the tunnel, it should not hit the throttle slide, it should start and stop as per your desired timing, it should refill properly, etc.

To be continued.....

Last edited by wescat; November 26th, 2017 at 05:54 AM. Reason: Updating
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