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June 10th, 2017, 07:53 PM   #11
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I Ride: Husaberg FE600 1994, Yamaha FZS1000, Beta Tr33
The cam timing is set with the flywheel TDC mark against the bolt hole mark in the cover. I have confirmed with an indicator dial that this is true TDC. The cam is then set with the cam sproket bolt holes at three and nine which put the lobes in eleven and one position. Cam chain stretched on the pull side. When I pull the engine around it comes back to the same position.

But when I fit the rocker cover and let the engine come to natural rest in TDC with the lobes pointing up, exhaust valves about o close, intake valves about to open, the rotor TDC mark is actually like five mm left of the mark in the cover.

Should I try retarding the cam one tooth? Would this possibly explain the exhaust booms and the flames out of the muffler when I rev it and let go of the throttle? Would this cause hard cold starting and impossible to start when hot?
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June 11th, 2017, 12:40 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Khristi View Post
But when I fit the rocker cover and let the engine come to natural rest in TDC with the lobes pointing up, exhaust valves about to close, intake valves about to open, the rotor TDC mark is actually like five mm left of the mark in the cover.
this has nothing to do with it/ this is the valve overlap stroke and you shouldn't be playing around here?

you set the valve timing with the lobes up, THEN ROTATE THE CRANK 360d so the lobes are down, THEN you do your valve clearances.

so where and why are you playing around on the exhaust stroke?

taffy
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June 11th, 2017, 03:40 AM   #13
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Should be fine on the cam timing then. I'm just grabbing after anything right now, hard to start, impossible when hot. Lots of exhaust boom when letting off the throttle after revving it. But it sedm to respond well on throttle when revving up.
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June 11th, 2017, 04:38 AM   #14
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One of my big performence improvments was to go from original sparkplug c8e to:
c7e, the bike improved in every way, some would say it could damage the engine with a warmer sparkplug if youre unlucky.
Im no pro but im not let the engine rest, the engine alive today is prof enough that it works in my case.
Dont go for the cr7e, didnt work for me.
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June 11th, 2017, 04:41 AM   #15
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sounds like you have to make the idle rpm higher, that will improve a lot of things
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June 11th, 2017, 06:15 AM   #16
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so where and when are you doing your valve clearances?

taffy
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June 11th, 2017, 06:48 AM   #17
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Valve clearances are done at TDC with the lobes facing down (rockers relaxed). I get a 0.1 feeler in easy and I can pry in a 0.15 so that should be ok.
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June 11th, 2017, 09:57 AM   #18
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Question on gaskets: how am I supposed to seal between the head and the exhaust pipes? The parts manual shows no gasket here. The same for the pipes to the muffler connection.

Second question specific for Taffy: Does your head gasket require a higher cylinder/head bolt torque? The fire ring seem to be a bit harder than on the one that was on my bike before. I have torqued to 44 Nm but have a tiny coolant leak at the head gasket. It also seems like the water finds it way to the cam chain channel and the oil goes milkshake but the level drop in the radiator is not noticable, I can only see a drop on the floor once in a while.
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June 13th, 2017, 04:35 AM   #19
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OK, Now I'm totally sure it's fuel related. Everything else is double, triple, quadrouple checked.

Piston within spec measured with micrometer. Rings within spec, measured with feeler gauge in cylinder. Cylinder wall looks like new and within spec, measured with bore dial. Compression is good, it's not possible to kick around without decomp. New exhaust valves lapped in and fluid tested. Old intake valves lapped in and fluid tested. Valve clearences set to 0,1 mm at TDC with rockers relaxed (lobes down).

New cam chain. Cam timing set, lobes pointing up at TDC perfect aligned with TDC mark on flywheel. TDC mark checked with dial thru spark plug hole.

Timing set with pin thru flywheel in to stator. Aligned with flywheel mark 34 mm ahead of tdc (33-34 degrees advance).

New coil (previous owner). New spark plug CR8EIX Iridium. Strong spark even at low speed kicking.

Carburetor. All jets inspected and clean. No ovality in needle jet. Have tried with and without CD1 jet (didn't have it from start), lean popping/flames out the exhaust on deceleration with CD1 installed, none og this without CD1. Floats and float height OK. Idle screw one turn out from bottom (idles high when it starts). Fuel screw two turns out from bottom (seem to be smoothest idle when it starts and choke is off. New intake rubber, no leaks.

Bike is still hard to start. I have found a method that work when the engine is cold and with choke. When the engine is warm it doesn't ignite at all when kicking. If I don't turn it off it will run good with no misfires when warm so I don't think it's got anything to do with overheated coil or stator.
Attached Thumbnails
Dellorto 38 CD1 jet - FE600 -94-img_0636.jpg   Dellorto 38 CD1 jet - FE600 -94-img_0642.jpg  

Last edited by Khristi; June 13th, 2017 at 04:38 AM.
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June 13th, 2017, 05:23 AM   #20
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Hi Khristi

You have done most anything you can do ... you are ready to write a book on how to prepare old bergs to start

If I understood correctly, you are saying that the bike when hot and with the choke on, it doesn't pop ? If that is the case you are obviously lean on the carb.

I haven't read this from the beginning but just to give some ideas to work with:

you should check stator values, and yes when the engine gets hot the stator gets weaker, specially if it's not 100%, because as it gets hotter the windings starts to short circuit

about the ignition timing, you are correct, but if you could use a strobe light it would be better, because this ignitions are a bit crazy, no 2 are alike

some will call me crazy but for the major problem with all of this SEM bikes, is that you can't give them enough revs to make a decent spark, my 400 is a bit decompressed and it kicks like a 2 stroke, and she will start first or second kick every time
so maybe you should consider the newer autodecomp with the stronger spring, I think this will make a big difference

also you can do your version of a hot start, it can help a lot

sorry got run

good luck

ZAGA
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