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December 1st, 2016, 07:41 AM   #21
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in case you haven't tried it, look closely at the ends of the battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter leads. sometimes the crimp is not good.
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December 1st, 2016, 10:02 AM   #22
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Still think it's the de-comp. Did you say you tried the manual de-comp? Can you get the motor spinning over quickly with it pulled?

Last edited by canolman; December 1st, 2016 at 10:05 AM.
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December 2nd, 2016, 05:52 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by ned37 View Post
in case you haven't tried it, look closely at the ends of the battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter leads. sometimes the crimp is not good.
^^this happened to me.

The hot lead to the starter was degraded and just 1 strand of wire was attached to the ring terminal.
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December 4th, 2016, 03:37 AM   #24
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Well, I'm in the middle of making new wires just in case, nothing to lose. They do look very degraded, but a tester shows they are ok.

Never know if the crank bearings are wearing themselves out but I still don't believe it would it would not crank the engine. It kickstarts very easy.
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December 4th, 2016, 07:58 AM   #25
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degraded leads on an '05 i had would cause intermittent starting problems. testing is difficult because the problem only shows under high amp loads
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January 31st, 2017, 01:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by ned37 View Post
degraded leads on an '05 i had would cause intermittent starting problems. testing is difficult because the problem only shows under high amp loads
I made all new wires just in case. It did not help, but thanks for the advice. They did seem to be heading towards the end of their lifespan but they were still complete and working.

Now when I've tried everything, there is no choice but to hope that a new auto decomp spring will do it.
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February 15th, 2017, 08:11 AM   #27
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I did check my valves again, and there was something fishy going on.

My exhaust valve clearance was HUGE. After re-adjusting, the flat screw is way deeper inside the locknut than before and compared to the intake valves. This worries me. Makes me think if my valves are not seated properly.
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February 15th, 2017, 11:23 AM   #28
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that's because you are trying to adjust when at tdc exhaust, not compression. it's a 4 stroke, you get 2 tdc's. turn crank clockwise thru opening and closing of INTAKE valves and then to tdc . adjust there.
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February 15th, 2017, 01:37 PM   #29
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bent valves effectively sit the valve further away from their seats. the way to tell is simply to take the headers off and with the engine at TDC on the comp stroke just poor some white spirit down an exhaust port. doesn't have to be a lot!

could you have been sold shorter valves are valves bigger than the 30mm you required?

regards

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February 16th, 2017, 03:08 AM   #30
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I always have done the valve adjustment at TDC-C, that is why I'm confused. Never had this before, and I've done the operation countless times.

I need to take a closer look, something is wrong. Taffy, I will do something like that to find out if it is bent. The valves are the same when I bought this bike, so I don't know the specs. I ordered some gaskets from Taffy too to play around with.
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