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August 21st, 2015, 07:29 AM   #1
Joined: Jan 2010
From: Southlake, TX

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I Ride: 2004 FE650e
2004 FE 650E Accelerator pump rod missing

I removed the carb to fix a leaking float needle valve and noticed the rod for the accelerator pump was missing. I bought the bike used and this is the first time to have the carb open.

The bike runs great (as far as I was concerned ) so I never suspected a problem. It doesn't seem to stumble or bog on acceleration, but I don't have anything to compare it to.

1. Should I install a rod or just put it back together and go?

2. Is there anything I should inspect or replace while the carb is off? I found a piece of fuel line rubber in the needle valve, so the flooding is fixed. I don't really want to rebuild the carb since the parts seem expensive for what you get.

3. Any tips on how to change jetting without removing the carb completely? I rode in the mountains of Colorado ( I live in TX) and limped the whole time because of rich jetting. If I go back I need to rejet for altitude.

4. Any recommended sources for carb parts in the US?

Fire away.
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August 21st, 2015, 08:48 AM   #2
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I Ride: 2 2005 FS650C; 2 2004 FS450C; 1993 Honda F2; 1972 Triumph Daytona; 1969 Ducati 450 Jupiter; 1974 rd
It's a Keihin, should be able to find carb parts just about anywhere that sells bike parts. Ktm dealer, summit racing, Dan at Motoxotica, Offroad boss. Yeah, that part should be very easy to find. Though, I'm curious about your terminology. Aren't accelerator rods found in the CV carbs and not FCR?
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August 21st, 2015, 11:51 AM   #3
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I had Dale Lineaweaver jet my carb.
He said, "some people cringe when I do this" and then he pulled the AP rod out.

I believe he said the reason it doesn't need it is this:

The FCR was developed for I-4 engines with a bank of carbs with displacements from 150-250 cc's per cylinder.

Those bikes needed a little shot of fuel to get them going from idle.

The FCR was then later adapted to singles, and they kept the AP.
perhaps it is/was needed on 250-450cc bikes.

A 650 has 3 or 4+ times as much displacement per cylinder than a I-4 750 or 1000.
Idk if the intake velocity is 3-4 times greater, but it sure is likely.

So, much higher intake velocity negates the need for a shot (ie; an accelerator pump)

That higher velocity sucks enough fuel through to get the bike going from idle, and also from way below idle speed without even touching the clutch.
I've experienced this many times, it rarely stalls.

Check your metering rod out. If it's silver/grey, and no markings on it it's probably a Lineaweaver needle.

Also, it may have an adjustable air screw, on the left looking through the intake side of the carb. There would be a brass screw with a spring behind it, instead of a fixed jet.

FWIW, I paid $200 for a complete jet kit installed.
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August 21st, 2015, 12:00 PM   #4
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i think you can loosen the clamps and rotate the carb to pull the top plate off.
Then you can lower the needle by raising the clip a notch next time you ride a mile high.

You can also swap main jets out thru the bowl drain but be careful you don't tighten it too much.
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August 21st, 2015, 07:11 PM   #5
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From: Southlake, TX

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I Ride: 2004 FE650e
Great information. I am feeling a little more comfortable.

The carb is indeed an FCR and the parts manual shows an AP rod.

The needle is brass, but I haven't taken it out to check the letters or the clip setting. Since it runs OK, I'm not sure I will.

I'll look for the adjustable air screw, however I don't know how to adjust it.

When I get it back in the bike I will try rotating the carb for access. Seems like there is a bracket for securing some wires and cables (bike is at a different location), but maybe I can rotate in the other direction.

I might get by with a bowl gasket, fuel inlet O-rings, and anything else that stands out. If I decide to tear into it there will probably be more.

Sure do appreciate the explanation.
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August 22nd, 2015, 02:09 AM   #6
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my lineaweaver needle was made from brass John
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August 22nd, 2015, 02:30 AM   #7
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I have a brass Lineaweaver needle too. I'm still running the AP rod though, with the BK mod to manage the stroke. Only need a couple of tenths of a mm for a nice snap, any more and its too hard to ride in technical terrain.

With this arrangement, the stroke is adjustable easily externally, and the gap to the locknut <> the stroke.
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Last edited by steve; August 22nd, 2015 at 02:34 AM.
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October 11th, 2018, 11:34 AM   #8
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I Ride: pine barons
So I recently bought a f 650 2004 and the Accelerator pump rod was missing so I rgoogle it and this thread come up . It's the same. Bike I had it shipped from Texas. Lol small Husaberg world
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  Husaberg Forum > Mechanical and Technical > Fuel

2004, 650e, accelerator, missing, pump, rod

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