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June 1st, 2013, 08:34 AM   #11
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

as far as what size to use on a 600, i would go as big as possible. it would be easier to optimize your top end power. the fun of a 600 is grabbing big handfuls fro midrange.
i put a 37mm fcr on my 400 and am quite happy with it.
the reason a 38mm 501 had quick response (mostly too quick) was the slide cutaway not being high enough.
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June 1st, 2013, 07:10 PM   #12
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

Originally Posted by ned37
as far as what size to use on a 600, i would go as big as possible. it would be easier to optimize your top end power. the fun of a 600 is grabbing big handfuls fro midrange.
i put a 37mm fcr on my 400 and am quite happy with it.
the reason a 38mm 501 had quick response (mostly too quick) was the slide cutaway not being high enough.

I agree, with a 600 i would also go big or go home in case i didnt say it like that already, the advantage of the faster response can be made up for by getting a pumper carb then you can still have the larger opening for top end power too like ned said!!!
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June 3rd, 2013, 04:39 AM   #13
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

Thanks for the replies. I'm no carby expert to be sure, but I have been around them long enough to get the basics. I actually have put a 2 stroke carb on a 4 stroke...it was a '76 z400 cafe racer project i was working on....took the twin carb set up and junked it, replaced it with a custom 2-1 manifold and a CR flat slide 2 stroke carb off a Honda 250. Worked great...I seem to remember that in higher hp 4 strokes the lack of emulsion tube in a 2 stroke carby is an issue (or maybe it was the other way around)
Anyway, i digress...so I was riding the berg at altitude yesterday (11,300') on a pretty simple jeep trail. (low end to mid range stuff) and it never missed a beat. It does sound a little "weazy", but i assume that is a function of no real air box and lots of filtration. But response was quick and had all the power i would ever need. I'm the 3rd owner of this bike that has always lived here in the mountains. So I assume that one of the POs must have had some carb tuning done for it to run that well at altitude.
So, i think i'm going to be a politician and flip-flop I'm going to try and at least inspect the condition of the Deloroto this weekend. I'm starting to understand/think that figuring out my top end prob's might be easier than a carby swap...especially for the number of times i'll ever use the top end here in the mountains.
Bergini...i'll take that AF device off your hands. PM Sent
Thanks again Ned & Bergini
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June 5th, 2013, 06:18 PM   #14
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

I used a 37mm fcr carb from an early YZ250F on a 1995 501 in totally stock trim except for soldering the leak jet closed and installing a bolt to restrict the amount of accelerator pump squirt, this works great for me at around 1000 ft above sea level. It has stupid power at high rpm even though it is only 37mm. Carb was like new and cost me only $75.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15562&p=131616&hilit=37mm+fcr+ works+great#p128873
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June 5th, 2013, 06:37 PM   #15
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

interesting article huscan,

At what throttle opening do you have the accelerator pump set to spray and when to stop pumping? i beleive that i have to set my mikuni tm-40-6 to start a little later but am almost out of room on a original screw too........
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June 6th, 2013, 01:19 AM   #16
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

Hey Dingo

just spruce up the carb and ride it. make sure the tappet clearances are set at the 'sixth of a turn' and also that the ignition timing is as follows

the white line that you can see through the hole in the cover is about 1mm to the left of centre.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUSABERG-DELL ... 3cd17d6680

at the altitude you're riding at I would suggest a couple of smaller MJs as well and then a little experimenting. the easy thing about altitude riding is that you are testing the bike's jetting without changing it just by going up and down. testing is very easy although a compromise is always a balancing act.

regards

Taffy
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June 8th, 2013, 03:22 PM   #17
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

Bergini:

This is what I did to my fcr carb with the bolt and spring.
http://www.thumperfaq.com/ap_mods.htm

I did not spend a lot of time adjusting the bolt that I put in to limit the squirt. I just "guessed" and it worked.
I later tried adjusting it in an out and went back to where i had guessed.
that plus soldering the leak jet closed is all I did, every other setting is stock.
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July 4th, 2013, 05:36 AM   #18
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

Hi all, thanks for the informative replies. I picked this up on fleabay the other day;

FCR41









I also attained an AF meter from a kindly husamember (thanks bergini). The plan is to follow the wealth of information i've learned from this site;

- Strip & Clean the Carb
- Purchase Taff's FCR Kit
- Adjust/Limit the AP
- Heat wrap the headers
- Tune & ride baby!

It looks as simple as that hey? Did I miss anything obvious?

Also, a quick question....in the last photo, there is a button that is marked choke, and then a cable that goes to the bars directly above the choke location. I assume that is is the hot start? from other carbs I've looked at, it seems they are arse about face. Shouldn't the choke be on the bars and the hot start down low?
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July 4th, 2013, 07:13 AM   #19
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

the only thing i could think you maybe would be forgettting would be fitting of the carb to the bike.....for the mikuni to fit mine i had to get a shorter intake rubber from sudco that bolted to the engine, this way it would still fit into the elbow on the back side of the carb that goes to the frame.....not sure what needs to be done to the fcr maybe nothing?? if needed you maybe could just cut down the front one?
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July 4th, 2013, 08:04 AM   #20
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Re: 98FE600 Carb Swap

Hi

For the FCR retrofit just buy the kit from Taffy


ZAGA
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