Crashingchris

Took the throttle body off cleaned and inspected as well as inspecting plugs to sensors and injector but all appears ok here ?

BRod

I've also been plagued by a stalling issue which I'd believed to be solely fuel related until recently.

Background:
I've had the bike (2010 FE570) since new in spring of 2011. Ran great for the first 1-2 years. After being left stranded in the woods a few times I replaced the original fuel pump with CA cycleworks and the stalling problems went away...for a while. A couple of years ago the bike would start to stall again when hot, maybe 20-30 minutes into a ride. It would start back up fairly quickly and usually at least get me home. I changed the tank filter and no change or improvement. It was dark brown and in need of change anyways. Earlier this year the stalling got much worse and it would often not re-start. When it did eventually re-start the throttle was erratic and would bog and lurch and spit and sputter and backfire and run terribly.

Work done this spring:
I sent off the injector for ultrasonic cleaning. Probably needed it anyways. I installed a Zipfly racing 10 micron fuel line filter to keep the newly cleaned injector clean. I also adjusted my TPS so I had a reading of 0.61 volts (up from 0.58 something). With a positive attitude I took off for an asphalt ride 30-45 mph with a full tank of fuel. 13 miles in it dies, exact same symptoms as before the injector cleaning, filter installation, and TPS adjustment. I let it cool down for 20 minutes, restarted, and within seconds it was running very poorly again (should have been cooled down by then), I barely made it home and it stalled 4-5 more times on the way.

Thinking that I'd gone through the fuel system thoroughly I set my sights on the electrical system. I'd changed the spark plug last season and it only had maybe 20 hours on it. I did check it and it looked fine. I cut 1/2 inch off the plug end of the spark plug wire and reconnected it. I disconnected 90% of the electrical connections on the bike, cleaning each one and applying dielectric grease. I also increased the TPS so it read 0.64 volts. The first improvement I saw was in starting the bike. In the past, it always took forever to start when cold. When hot it starts fine (provided it had not just died) but cold it was always a beast and I sometimes used starting fluid. Now it starts up immediately. I took it for a 45 mile asphalt ride (30-45 mph) on a warm day. It was running great. I was very pleased. I was just a few blocks from my house when it died. It started right back up and seemed to run the last few blocks home okay (no sputtering). I was running late for a kids soccer game and could not do any troubleshooting at the time. This was last Saturday. I could not ride it again until Monday evening. Took it out for 20 miles (asphalt, 30-45 mph) and it started right up, ran great, no stalling. I plan to get out again tonight for a longer ride to see what happens.

The good news is whatever electrical (or other) issue I had, it seems to be much better now, AND the bike starts great when cold. The bad news is I'm still not comfortable taking her out to the middle of nowhere. If I learn anything new I'll be sure to share.

webmonstro

When it stalls , can you check for spark ? Before it cools down ? Maybe carry a spare spark plug and check it when still hot . Could be stator or coil failing when hot

tourist

The 10 micron inline filter, where is it located? I've seen it repeated often by reputable sources that there should be NO inline filter in the injector housing because none of them are reliable, and that 10 micron was small enough to swell and clog - at least in the injector filter location.

In other words, I think I agree with statements that the only filter after the pump should be in the quick disconnect between tank/pump and injector, and that it should probably be 20 micron (unless it's confirmed and verified 100% that a 10 micron filter won't clog there).

BRod

tourist: The filter is in the line just downstream of the quick connect, actually replaces the male end of the disconnect. It has a 20 micron basket type disposable filter and a 10 micron stainless steel screen filter (or appears to be stainless). I attempted to attach a photo above.

webmonstro: Great suggestion. I'll carry a spare spark plug on my next ride, hopefully tomorrow.