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September 21st, 2007, 02:28 AM   #1
jmb
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No spark - SEM Stator failure or not ?

Hello all,

Sorry for this new topic regarding SEM Stator but I have read so many posts concerning this subject that I'm a bit confused now, so if anybody can help me it would be nice ...Here are the data of my problem:

-I've got a FSE 650 2002 that i do not use very often (3000 km only),
- Since the beginning, I have always had difficulties to start it up (cold or hot): tipically it cranks whenever it wants, sometimes at the first pressure upon the e-start button, sometimes it doesn't want to cranck at all for a week. Once crancked, it usually runs without any problem (except a too weak idle).
- A few weeks ago, it has crank at the first pressure then stopped. I never managed to start it up again.
- There is no more husaberg dealer where I leave (middle of indian ocean)...
- If i put the bottom of the sparkplug onto the cylinder and i press the e-start button, i quote no spark at all,
- I have changed the plug (new) and the plug cover (new as well) and inspected all wires (which all seem to be ok)>> no spark at all,
-I have inspected the stator (which was changed two years ago - 1000km) and the flywheel >> no apparent problem (compared to the first stator I had which died because of rust). I put WD40 on it >> still no spark,
- Regarding the stator, I have quoted the following values with my digital mulimeter:
*red to black voltage: 22 to 24 VAC with wires unplugged and when e-starting - 3.5 to 4.5 VAC with wires plugged and when e-starting - I have read somewhere that the best value would be 30-35V AC but that it should still work upper 20VAC , is that right ?
* green to black voltage : 3.3 VAC with wires unplugged and when e-starting - 2.1 VAC with wires plugged to the CDI and when e-starting
* resistances values (ohms) are ok.
- I can systematically have one big blue spark if i follow the following process:
1° I unplugg the green wire (trigger coil),
2° I e-start for about 5 seconds,
3° I plug the green wire then e-start again : one (but only one) big blue spark happens (but one spark is not sufficient to cranck the bike...)

What I understand is that the capacitor is not sufficiently charged unless I artificially suspend the trigger voltage for a while. I suspect that the charging coils are disfunctionning (despite the fact that I quote 22 VAC betwwen the red and black wires) unless it be the capacitor itself (which is inside the CDI in my understanding).

Does anybody can confirm this before I either order in France a new husaberg' stator or send it to Sparks in Spain ? Unless I try the electronic tip described by OIK in the "sem's charging coil replacement!" topic, but i do not understand very well how it works...

If anybody can help...
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September 21st, 2007, 04:22 AM   #2
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Hi jmb,

I can feel with you. It´s really bitter.
You´ve done a lot. I think, generally spoken, all the values you´ve given us, are not that important.
More important are the values for the resistances. And so far, to me it sounds that your stator is still ok.

Years ago I had the same problem on my ´02 FC 470, I had no e-start, but the same characteristic in the spark.
Kicking one time, there was a spark, but only a single one. There came a bang out of the silencer, but nothing more.

Mercifully I had a CDI in reserve, plugged it on, one kick and the engine started.

I think you have a CDI problem. It would be helpful, if you could find one for a test.
Otherwise, things like this are really cost intense.
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September 21st, 2007, 04:48 AM   #3
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Hi Jmb.

These are the tricky one's is it A or is it B, I have to disagree with what hribman says, it's the voltage when the leads are connected to the coil that worries me, when you disconnect the Green trigger lead the capacitor can't discharge so what ever voltage is coming from the source coils it is being stored in the capacitor, now when you reconnect the trigger lead and kick you are releasing the stored voltage hence the 1 solitary spark, but because the voltage coming from the source coils is low there isn't enough voltage to recharge charge the capacitor.
But with out running up the complete system on the test rig even I can't be 100% sure.

Regards

Sparks.
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September 21st, 2007, 09:07 AM   #4
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JMB, I don't know if I know you, because I used to know a few dirt riders on Reunion, but I would advise you send the stator to Sparks in Spain. It will be cheaper than a new one and better as well.
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September 22nd, 2007, 01:40 AM   #5
jmb
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Many thanks for all your replies. It feels good to have support in these hard times.

HRIBMAN, I quote 168 ohms between the green and black wires (standard value being 165 ohms) and more than 2 Kohms (my multimeter unfortunaly don't quote upper values) between the red and black wires (standard value being 3 Kohms). That's why I assumed the resistances values were ok. Nevertheless, I will try to find another multimeter to quote the exact value between the red and black wires. Note that all theses values were tested with wires unplugged (hope this is the right way to test). Unfortunaly, I did not ever see another 1999 to 2003 Husaberg onto the island so that I could exchange the CDI unit for testing.

Besides, I have to say that I quote the same (apparently good) resistance values onto my old and all rusty first stator...That's why I'm not so convinced that good resistance values make good operating stator...

SPARKS, I was in the same opinion than yours until I quote 22-24 VAC between the red an black wires and read in another topic that stator should not be deemed as failed unless this value was below 20 VAC. Unfortunaly, the post did not specify if this last value has to be quoted with wires plugged or unplugged...That's the question...

LEFROG, unfortunaly, I don't think I had the pleasure to meet you. Nevertheless, i have to say that all the replies posted from people who have sent their stator to SPARKS convinced me that he makes really good job. I just want to be shure (as far as this is possible...) that I will not have to buy an expensive CDI in a second time because the stator was not in cause...
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September 22nd, 2007, 07:11 AM   #6
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I had good resistance values as well, but my stator failed as it was getting hotter. The volts generated were sub-par and that's what made this bike run badly all along. Bad spark, bad bike.

You have to command Husaberg to have tried to use mostly Swedish and European parts but once they switched to Keihin and Kokusan, most of those issues (hard to start, easy to stall, hard to restart) disappeared.

I know the guys from Toolenduro (that's the French enduro site) also rave about his rewinds.
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September 24th, 2007, 11:27 PM   #7
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JMB,

I have another idea what else you can check and what doesn´t cost any money.

Dismount the CDI from your bike and heat it up a little bit. Put it into an oven or put it in the boiler room for a few days to dry it. Maybe the CDI got wet and the electronic circuits temporary gone mad.

What I also tried with an old SEM CDI was heating it up by an hot air gun. Afterwards the spark was fine again and the engine started.
Till next time I washed the bike with a high pressure cleaner. Then I had to repeat the whole procedure.

Just try that out. You have nothing to loose.
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September 27th, 2007, 11:29 AM   #8
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JMB,
I have every sympathy with you. discovered that my FE501 after renewing my piston rings and valves that my machine has no spark. so I am now sharing the confusion as which is at fault stator or CDI?
Engine was running a bit poorly and I may have wrongly diagnosed the worn rings and inlet valve chipped as why engine cut out and would not start again!!
All the fun eh!!??
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October 27th, 2007, 08:25 AM   #9
jmb
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Hello everybody,

I've finally decided to order the new electrex ST5401L stator with the 3 phase regulator/rectifier for my FSE 650 2002 Berg.

I will let you know should I'm satisfied or not.

Thanks again for your support.

JMB
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October 27th, 2007, 01:08 PM   #10
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What can you use to replace the SEM CDI? Does it have to be same or a different one can do the trick?

Thanks!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf RA_Husaberg_2004_E.pdf (90.3 KB, 4 views)
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