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September 22nd, 2007, 05:05 AM   #11
oyk
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sorry but i read the post partially!!

under no circumstance i would buy a new stator , since there is sparks around , send your old one if it is faulty and if you don't decide to go with the trans mod.
sparks rewind stators has saved a lot of trouble from our people here in uhe
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January 21st, 2008, 10:16 AM   #12
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does anyone have a diagam to do this conversion , i am prepared to try it out , and i see no reason why it should'nt work perfectly, i have a spare cdi so , if it blows , then it blows, i have heard that sparks does an excelent job on sems , but no one made any progress by not experimenting a bit?and why oh why do we need to use these stupid four little unreliable coils anyway, as we know that they are going to pack up eventually and leave us stranded miles from home.I just wish someone would manufacture a complete ignition set up that is as reliable as japanese electronics, they would soon be very very rich, and i would buy one .
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January 22nd, 2008, 12:02 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by scrapveiw
does anyone have a diagam to do this conversion , i am prepared to try it out , and i see no reason why it should'nt work perfectly, i have a spare cdi so , if it blows , then it blows, i have heard that sparks does an excelent job on sems , but no one made any progress by not experimenting a bit?and why oh why do we need to use these stupid four little unreliable coils anyway, as we know that they are going to pack up eventually and leave us stranded miles from home.I just wish someone would manufacture a complete ignition set up that is as reliable as japanese electronics, they would soon be very very rich, and i would buy one .
I think Oyk rides his on the road I think yours is enduro, the transformer could be a bit vulnerable to water and dirt and once in these conditions you might find the electricity going else where to where it should, OK if you can keep it dry.
The only reason the OEM ignition stator is so unreliable is the way it is put together and the quality of materials used, where mine are totally different.
I give 12 months guarantee with my rewinds and after over a 1000 out there I am yet to see one returned.
As for the Japanese ignitions I have rewound bucket loads of them they used to fail for the same reason as the SEM but in later years they have become very reliable.
But feel free to go down the transformer route it is an interesring experiment and I'm sure it could be very reliable.

Regards

Sparks.
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January 22nd, 2008, 09:51 AM   #14
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hi, if you read carefully though my post and you have some basic electronics - electricity knowledge you will figure the diagramm easily.

if you are not inclined i recomend let someone who is inclined to help you out cause there is some risk involved with the wiring-might damage your cdi if for instance if you don,t rectify the output with a bridge.

if i have some time this week i will make up a jpg showing the wiring.

what model you have?

if it is has a batery the capasitor at the output must be one of a bigger size (20μf propably) because in "E" models one winding is used for lighting (one yellow wire) rated at 70 watts, which results in a simultaneus voltage drop for some milliseconds when turning on the lights. this some times lead to the engine to turn off. with the capacitor no problem.
this is my transformer:

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

it is 220/12 volts, 50 watts very compact and strong. with some "personal care" it can become 100% water resistant. me and 2 more bergs that i modded use it for more than a year flawless.

the cost of the transformer is 5 euros and the estimated mounting time 1 hour ( this is my ussual time for a battery model because i use to solder every wire connection for security).

propably this weekend i will also upload in my gallery the simple electric diagramm.


regards
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January 22nd, 2008, 07:24 PM   #15
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thanks for the replies guys, i tried the transformer route and it works! but i still have the same problem allthough it did run better, but when i stopped it ,it would not restart.thats what it was doing before, ive checked the valve clearances ,checked the cam timing ,messed about with the auto decomp, changed the carb , changed the sem,changed the coil pack,changed the plug?checked all the ohms readings, even changed the flywheel...and then i put it all back to original wiring spec because the spark jumped 10mm on the original set up?????.....what else can it be , i am beginning to think that i have been supplied with a duff plug,and i was still at it at 3 am this morning, but then it back fired again and the kick start snapped in half when i was tryin to kick it up for the millionth time, my left leg is now thicker than my right,HELP!!!,i feel like taking a hammer to it.ive been a mechanic for 22 years and some of those years were as a motorcycle mechanic too. ive got to admit that this one has realy got me scratching my head..........regards......ian
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January 22nd, 2008, 07:27 PM   #16
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forgot to say , its a 1995 fc501 ,
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January 23rd, 2008, 05:48 AM   #17
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cured it , i think, the problem was a brand new NGK spark plug!, went to the bike shop this morning and purchased 5 new plugs , i put the first one in gave it a bit of choke and a good hard kick and she fired up and ticked over like a brand new berg, and it restarts now .....but , oyk when you read this i would still like to go down the transformer route so that i can attatch it to my bike and use as a switched back up just incase, the sem dies when i am out, i used an old trans former out of an old radio cassette 220/9v , it worked fine, i then tried one out of an old TV which was 220/12v but was twice as big in overall size than the radio cassette one it produced a spark but it was weak, also my generator lighting circuit has two yellow and one blue ,i had to join the two yellow together and use the blue to make the circuit to the transformer, is this ok to do that?..........regards .....ian.
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January 24th, 2008, 07:53 AM   #18
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hi, glad you find the problem.
in fc models you will need to put an ac voltage regulator to keep your voltage down to 12 volts.
now if you connect directly the two yellows and along with the blue without the regulator you will ruin the cdi.

you can adapt a universal regulator also.

to test a transformer if it is suitable you have to test it in a bench.
feed 12 volts at the secondary and measure the output voltage with no load connected.
then put a 5 kohm resistor in the output and measure voltage again. if voltage remains high then it is ok.
if the voltage drops very low then you need to go to a higher wattage rating.

in no case a cassete transformer will do.

if you put it on you can only idle , when you open throttle the engine will die due to the higher load of the cdi in higher rpm.
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January 24th, 2008, 08:39 AM   #19
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thank you for your info, the rad cassette transformer did actually allow the bike to achieve maximum rpm with no hiccups , i think the best thing to do is get a transformer identical to the one you are using and go from there, because yours is still working with no probs,the bike i have has all the lighting circuit including regulator and they worked ok, so i can regulate it, i did go and buy a 220/12,100va lighting transformer from the local electrical store , but i was dissapointed to find that it is not a true transformer inside , its full of capacitors and semiconductors chips and things and two circular very tiny coils , so cant be used , hence the radio cassette and telly transformers, so what i need is the exact make and model of your transformer , i looked at the pic in your album but i cant make out all the writing on it. you are a clever chap and have been a great help ...thank you .....ian
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January 27th, 2008, 06:27 AM   #20
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hi scrapview, i believe my transformer is ACA which propably is an unknown brand made in greece!

well go to a electricians shop and ask for a 50watts HALOGEN lighting transformer i believe with a bit of search you can find one like mine
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