Is my starter solenoid dying?

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L

LeFrog

Joined
Mar 6, 2005
Messages
2,710
Location
Mesa, AZ
Battery is juiced up, starter motor works fine.

But when I push the button, the solenoid does not make one click but about 10 per second, uninterrupted, until I stop pushing the button.

Is the solenoid dying? Or is there some kind of a drain somewhere?

If yes, can I replace it with an array of other solenoid?

Thanks!
 
Make sure your battery cables are tight,if so try another battery.If you can start the bike with another good battery yours is toast,if you can start the bike by shorting the starter solenoid,get a new solenoid.A jap one should fit fine.
 
I'd Check The Energizer Wires. The 400's Came Loose And Would Just Stop Every Now And Then. Just Tightend The Nuts Up
 
Yes, when I short the solenoid, the starter whirrs. New solenoid, then...

Does anybody know with what I can cross-spec?
 
Just take your old on to your local bike shop.There are lots of aftermarket ones available for the ATV world.Seems
to me you will do well with a Yamaha part # 4kd-81940...
 
Thanks. Actually so much can be found on eBay once you know what bike it fits.

Why pay $150 for a starter motor when you can get one for $15 (shipping included) on eBay?
 
the 2110-0080 is Yamaha part #4h7-81940 updated to 3ay-81940 now updated to 4kd-81940 ...try it
 
I think it's either the battery or something else, now.

Battery fully juiced on the Optimate III. I push the button, one click, whirr. Like this several times, until I get the crazy click-a-click-a-click from the solenoid, then nothing, and the Optimate switches to desulfate for 2 minutes, then charge.

I don't think the solenoid is toast, now.

What do the experts think?
 
Re: RE: Bump!

LeFrog said:
Never done that, Jzfe. How do you go about doing that?
Click to expand...

Smarter people than me will give you a better answer but try this out.

Get a multimeter on the battery and record the at rest voltage (should be 14v +/-) and then hit the starter and record how far the voltage gets pulled down - if you get under 10v you have a weak battery.

There is equipment for doing a proper load tests which measures the battery's ability to produce energy not just voltage. This is a poor layman's explanation but its the best I can offer....

Cheers

Mark
 
If one of your buddy's work at auto-repair facility they will have one("VAT 45" or similar)...if not Auto-zone, Carquest, napa will test it for free. Make sure the battery is fully charged, at least 75%. The tester places a load on the battery to check its state of condition. A 12v battery must maintain 7.2v for 20 seconds while loaded at zero degrees F. At 70 degrees it is 9.6 volts.
Open circuit voltage/specific gravity 12.66volts or 1.260s.g.

You can test it on the bike while cranking with a multi-meter, but yours cranks intermittently...
I would...
1) pull battery out, trickle charge, then test...replace as necessary
2) while battery is out, CLEAN all connections + and - & associated connectors
3) if problem still persists, check for a voltage drop in the intact start circuit. A multimeter and wiring diagrams will be required for this, all multi-meter instruction manuals describe this procedure.(Ohm's law, Kirchoff's law etc..)
4) after that, if problem still persists, tap on the starter while cranking, if normal operation occurs, starter brushes/contacts are worn.(voltage drop)

Voltage drops are the #1 cause of malfunctions in electrical/electronic systems. (i.e. ...high resistance...open circuit...short circuit)

hope this helps...good luck!!! :)
 
Yup!

Someone smarter than me came along - just like I knew they would... :-0

Kirchoff's law - I had forgotten it even existed let alone what it states.

Thanks for stepping in and giving him the information he really needed.

Mark
 
jzfe said:
If one of your buddy's work at auto-repair facility they will have one
Click to expand...

I think I do :) But I may just take it out and try with the other battery I have.

Pity it would die after a year.
 
nic,
use a vom on the battery. read no load voltage, should be 12-14v. hit the starter, read that voltage, should'nt be significantly lower, 10-11v. then put the leads on the solenoid connectors, read that while starting. should be the same as battery loaded. then read hot lead to solenoid and the other lead to battery negative, should be the same as the last one. also check starter post to ground. my guess is you've got an oxidized connector in there somewhere. clean them all from bat leads down to starter with some sandpaper and make sure there aren't any patially broken wires.
(btw..nice odo and cable) 8)

ned
 
voltage drop tests measure the amount of voltage expended to overcome resistance (an opposing force to the flow of electrical current created by a circuit or component) The lower the voltage drop reading, the less resistance in the circuit.
battery cable up to 3 ft 0.1v
magnetic switches 0.3v
solenoid switches 0.2v
mechanical switches 0.1v
battery cable connectors 0.05v
connections 0.0 v

For instance, if you place your dvom leads on the neg battery terminal cable at battery and where the cable bolts to the block, while cranking, the reading should be less than 0.1volts.
 

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