2009 FE 450 won't start - Page 3

bayside08 · August 21st, 2018, 11:37 AM

Originally Posted by Ook Peter

Nope, you’re measuring the coils’ resistance that is normally between where the spark plug connects and the “-“ of the battery or the metal of the engine. I just checked my 390 and it reads something like 30.000 ohms (30kohms).
You can also enlarge the gap of the spark plug to 1cm which corresponds to the normal condition in the engine to check it. Strong ignition can bridge up to 1,5cm.
But somehow this sounds more like faulty timing to me.
You really only changed oil for the right oil in the right amount? And around 1l oil came out?

Okay thanks Peter, I'll try to do that measurement this week. How would I check for a timing issue?

And yes it ran fine and then shut off after changing oil. Around 1L came out and I filled it up to right around the middle of the sight glass

bayside08 · August 21st, 2018, 11:38 AM

Originally Posted by hackaasodensson

Hi, Did you solve this issue? I have the same problem in my 2011 450FE...

Thanks, Jandro

Hey Jandro,

Still haven't figured it out, but haven't been working on it lately since I'm not sure where to go. If you figure out your issue, please report back and let me know what your issue was.

Thanks!
TG

Ook Peter · August 22nd, 2018, 07:04 AM

Sorry to answer this late, I have not yet have to rebuild this engine (and glad so) therefore I had to search a little.
Page 148 of the Repair manual ( e.g. from here https://drive.google.com/folderview?...ms&usp=sharing) shows how to set/check timing chain (when installing). The repair manual also has a checklist in case of particular faults, something to look into as well maybe.
I was surprised to not find anything particular on the ignition timing. This means it is completely handled by the flywheel and the ECU, nothing to check/set there.
This triggered another thought. The various sensors (see e.g. page 2 of https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...W1aYm9qX0o4MWM) together determine timing and injection. Maybe wiring got bad or sensors are failing?

jon andersson · August 22nd, 2018, 04:05 PM

I'm mostly curious what can go wrong changing oil. It can be unrelated with freak timing but most often it's not.

Following this, it will be interesting to get the answer

robinasu · June 21st, 2019, 07:35 PM

Bad gas?

robinasu · June 26th, 2019, 02:12 PM

Maybe double back and check the fuel system again. Remove all filters temporarily (assume you have clean gas and tank). Check the injector for any gel or particles. These bikes are prone to injector clogs. Put voltage to the injector to hold open and blow out with air and brake cleaner.

Remove the spark plug and put bike on a stand. Spin the rear wheel to see if the engine drag is reasonable and smooth. Check spark (make sure no gas vapor is around) and make sure it happens at a reasonable time compared to TDC. Might need to ground spark plug to engine. Wear gloves.

Buy electrical meter back probes and check the ECU signaling compared to service manual. If no spark, check ECU signal to ignition module. Check crank sensor while cranking. If you have a cheap oscilloscope it might help if you can’t find a random oversight with a hand meter.

You can fake out sensors by putting proper value resistors in the connectors.

Make sure the idle adjust screw has the right number of turns. Did anybody add a random petcock valve?

Is throttle position sensor correctly set around 0.6V? Is the throttle butterfly fine adjustment stop near the cable attachment correctly set?

With spark and fuel it should light. Is fuel pressure ok?