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July 27th, 2018, 05:49 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by PABiker View Post
The battery is weak and not maintaining high enough terminal voltage during cranking, the ECU senses the low voltage and then stops firing the plug.

Replace the battery.
I'll give that a try. When I bought this bike, changing the battery was the first thing I did. I have also tried cranking the bike hooked up to my truck battery hopping the increased CCA would help
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August 1st, 2018, 05:58 AM   #12
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So I have swapped the battery for a new one and it no longer drops below 10V when cranking, but still no start.

I was going to take it to the only KTM shop around, but they do not have the software on their XC1 for a husaberg, only KTMs. I'm assuming since the wiring is different on the berg than it's KTM sibling that it may not work. Also, the tech said the XC1 won't provide much info if the bike won't start.

He said he could diagnose it but they ask for a guarantee of up to two hours @ $100/hr with no guarantee they can diagnose it. So I'm still holding off trying to figure this out with the help of you berg wizards before I throw $200 into the wind
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August 2nd, 2018, 02:12 AM   #13
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Before you start throwing money around, I'll give you a simple and basic checklist to diagnose the problem.

First throw away any crazy and paranormal ideas about the issue.

1) Is there any spark?
2) Do you have spark on the right moment?
3) Is there fuel?
4) Does the injector squirt if you crank the engine. If it doesn't squirt or instead it pisses, then there is your problem.
5) Is there enough compression?
6) Is the valve timing correct?

If you have checked everything on the list above, then the engine fires. If it still doesnt, then your bike can be declared paranormal. Mulder and Scully should investigate it.

and some more ideas:

- If the throttle position sensor plug is loose, then there will be no firing. The tach should give you a fault code
- Try running or pulling the bike with a car to give engine moore starting speed. Even if the engine has for example 6 bars of compression, it should fire.
- If the engine has low compression, starting fluid might not help.
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August 14th, 2018, 08:56 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by V6ll View Post
Before you start throwing money around, I'll give you a simple and basic checklist to diagnose the problem.

First throw away any crazy and paranormal ideas about the issue.

1) Is there any spark?
2) Do you have spark on the right moment?
3) Is there fuel?
4) Does the injector squirt if you crank the engine. If it doesn't squirt or instead it pisses, then there is your problem.
5) Is there enough compression?
6) Is the valve timing correct?

If you have checked everything on the list above, then the engine fires. If it still doesnt, then your bike can be declared paranormal. Mulder and Scully should investigate it.

and some more ideas:

- If the throttle position sensor plug is loose, then there will be no firing. The tach should give you a fault code
- Try running or pulling the bike with a car to give engine moore starting speed. Even if the engine has for example 6 bars of compression, it should fire.
- If the engine has low compression, starting fluid might not help.
1) Yeah I'm getting spark
2) I'm actually not sure how to test if I have spark on the right moment.
3) I have fuel. Verified looking down the TB as well as pulling the plug and it is wet
4) Injector atomizes properly
5) Yeah compression is good
6) Valve timing appears fine. Everything lines up and all valve clearance is in check
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August 14th, 2018, 12:55 PM   #15
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In addition to the checklist:
- is the spark strong enough, like it can bridge at least 7mm other wise it won’t ignite
- check for air leaks in the intake like lose injector house or cracks in rubber
- valve timing, chain tension right ? Do valves open and close on the correct moments? One tooth slip on your chain can make your bike not start
Thanks from bayside08
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August 15th, 2018, 10:45 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ook Peter View Post
In addition to the checklist:
- is the spark strong enough, like it can bridge at least 7mm other wise it wonít ignite
- check for air leaks in the intake like lose injector house or cracks in rubber
- valve timing, chain tension right ? Do valves open and close on the correct moments? One tooth slip on your chain can make your bike not start
I checked for air leaks and verified valve timing.

I'm thinking it's something spark related which is why I posted in the Electrical forum.

I'm an absolute knob when it comes to electrical work, so if anyone can point me in the right direction for testing, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Although spark appears stronger on mine than my buddy's '10 FE, I'm suspecting it may not be firing at the right time or is not truly as strong as it appears. Do you know of a way to test the coil?
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August 15th, 2018, 02:01 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by bayside08 View Post
...
Although spark appears stronger on mine than my buddy's '10 FE, I'm suspecting it may not be firing at the right time or is not truly as strong as it appears. Do you know of a way to test the coil?
Of you have a multi meter, find the resistance values for the ignition coil normaly less than 10 ohms on controller side and more than 5000 ohms on spark plug side. A fast and practical way is using an old spark plug and enlarging the spark gap, it should at least give a spark when the distance is 7 mm.
Timing needs the sensor positionec correctly, would need to check the workshop manual for that. I haven’t got it at hand since I am out for work.
Thanks from tourist, Alan and bayside08

Last edited by Ook Peter; August 15th, 2018 at 02:04 PM.
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August 16th, 2018, 07:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ook Peter View Post
Of you have a multi meter, find the resistance values for the ignition coil normaly less than 10 ohms on controller side and more than 5000 ohms on spark plug side. A fast and practical way is using an old spark plug and enlarging the spark gap, it should at least give a spark when the distance is 7 mm.
Timing needs the sensor positionec correctly, would need to check the workshop manual for that. I havenít got it at hand since I am out for work.
Thanks Peter! Pardon my ignorance, but when measuring at the spark plug side, do I just probe inside the coil where the spark plug connects to? And then for measuring on the controller side, I would just measure the black box under the frame?
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August 17th, 2018, 06:53 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by bayside08 View Post
Thanks Peter! Pardon my ignorance, but when measuring at the spark plug side, do I just probe inside the coil where the spark plug connects to? And then for measuring on the controller side, I would just measure the black box under the frame?
Nope, you’re measuring the coils’ resistance that is normally between where the spark plug connects and the “-“ of the battery or the metal of the engine. I just checked my 390 and it reads something like 30.000 ohms (30kohms).
You can also enlarge the gap of the spark plug to 1cm which corresponds to the normal condition in the engine to check it. Strong ignition can bridge up to 1,5cm.
But somehow this sounds more like faulty timing to me.
You really only changed oil for the right oil in the right amount? And around 1l oil came out?
Thanks from Alan and bayside08

Last edited by Ook Peter; August 17th, 2018 at 07:08 AM.
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August 21st, 2018, 08:04 AM   #20
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Hi, Did you solve this issue? I have the same problem in my 2011 450FE...

Thanks, Jandro
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