Ignition module wiring, where to?

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TheTaXUS

Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
17
Location
Sweden
Hi!

I'm currently swapping the engine in my FE450 -06' to a 550 -03'.
As you probably know they are operating on different ignition systems and I am trying to do the necessary swaps in the wiring for this to work (switching to the old models ignition module and regulator).
I think I have figured out where to put all the wires except the 4 top ones coming from the ignition module. By comparing the old and new wiring diagram where do I put the old ignition module wires to fit the new? (Images below)

c996bcb255beabde75d35edef926c327.png

fb607a30858986e24dd42b69d7479b73.png

61bdcb48b798b44e03b79850589eb74f.png
 
ede said:
Hi,
a while ago I tried to explain it to BigJalle - I guess he want's the same... but I don't know if he could make it work. Check out this link: http://husaberg.org/mechanical/24974-engine-change-650-a.html (http://husaberg.org/mechanical/24974-engine-change-650-a.html)

Please keep us up to date how it worked out!

Regards,
EDE
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, will check this out as soon as the warmth outside calms down a bit :D

EDIT: I read you answer and it looks good but I have 2 questions.
1. Can I use the newer carburetor with the old engine (without the TPS connected of course). And if so, which one would you recommend using. According to the previous owner, who never used the engine, the pre-previous owner put in more aggressive cams. I think my Keihin is 1 mm larger than the Dellorto and the threads where between the carb and cable are gone.
2. "[cdi] orange --> yellow/blue wire (stop/kill switch), connected with your key switch (your 2006 harness)" What if I don't have a keyswitch?
 
Last edited:
Hi,
to your questions:
  1. Of course you can use the newer carb with the old engine. Usually the people mount a (mostly selfmade) billet aluminium adapter where the old carburettor rubber mount is connected. Then they connect the newer carb with the "newer" rubber to the billet adapter.
    Which carb you use is a matter of choice. Many guys on the forum clearly prefer the Keihin FCR over the old Dellorto. Since the Dellorto and its parts is more cheap than the Keihin (and since my bike came with Dellorto) I use the Dellorto. Some guys say the keihin makes the bike easier to control - with the Dellorto it might be to sensitive or having hick-ups...
    I did not feel my engine is having hick-ups with the Dellorto - but it's sensitive on the throttle ... but that's why you bought a Husaberg and not a Suzuki DR, right?
  2. The orange wire shortcuts the ignition spark to ground. You need that to kill the engine. You surely have a kill switch, which somehow is connected to that cable. If you don't have a key/key lock for the bike, than the bike is "always on" (can be started any time). So if you don't need the key-lock, connect orange to the kill switch only and you're fine.

Regards,
EDE
 
ede said:
Hi,
to your questions:
  1. Of course you can use the newer carb with the old engine. Usually the people mount a (mostly selfmade) billet aluminium adapter where the old carburettor rubber mount is connected. Then they connect the newer carb with the "newer" rubber to the billet adapter.
    Which carb you use is a matter of choice. Many guys on the forum clearly prefer the Keihin FCR over the old Dellorto. Since the Dellorto and its parts is more cheap than the Keihin (and since my bike came with Dellorto) I use the Dellorto. Some guys say the keihin makes the bike easier to control - with the Dellorto it might be to sensitive or having hick-ups...
    I did not feel my engine is having hick-ups with the Dellorto - but it's sensitive on the throttle ... but that's why you bought a Husaberg and not a Suzuki DR, right?
  2. The orange wire shortcuts the ignition spark to ground. You need that to kill the engine. You surely have a kill switch, which somehow is connected to that cable. If you don't have a key/key lock for the bike, than the bike is "always on" (can be started any time). So if you don't need the key-lock, connect orange to the kill switch only and you're fine.

Regards,
EDE
Click to expand...

Thought I'd update you on my current situation.
I have wired all the electrics. Blinker works but I don't have any spark and the starter relay just gives a click when I press the starter button.
From my googling the spark issue might be a ground somewhere that's shorting the circuit and the starter relay might be a bad ground.
Haven't had time to troubleshoot properly but I'll go ham with the multimeter in the coming days.
 
The easiest way to check for a bad ground is to connect a jumper cable from the battery (-) connector to the starter motor body . If you any difference when you hit the button, you have a bad ground



Nuno
 
probably the way you have the wires in the starter relay. you need to look at these. I have a diagram or two. drop me an email.

as for the alloy inlet stub. I have never seen it written here that anyone makes their own inlet stub. I sell them. but also the original inlet rubber circa 2000-2003 is still about in used condition. both the keihin and the dell orto can go in this rubber. you remove 5mm from the rubber mouth for the keihin carb and then the lip and the recess inside the rubber fit nicely.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
probably the way you have the wires in the starter relay. you need to look at these. I have a diagram or two. drop me an email.

as for the alloy inlet stub. I have never seen it written here that anyone makes their own inlet stub. I sell them. but also the original inlet rubber circa 2000-2003 is still about in used condition. both the keihin and the dell orto can go in this rubber. you remove 5mm from the rubber mouth for the keihin carb and then the lip and the recess inside the rubber fit nicely.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

I've looked at your diagrams and they don't correspond to my wiring. Also attached a picture of how it looks. I haven't changed the solenoid so it is wired after the diagram above.

I also tested the battery and the voltage drops to less than 2 volts when I press the start button, guess it's bad. Charged it to higher than 12 volts a couple of days ago and now it reads around 11.

Will the bike start with kickstart even with a dead battery (if I manage to get spark of course)??
 

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TheTaXUS said:
I've looked at your diagrams and they don't correspond to my wiring. Also attached a picture of how it looks. I haven't changed the solenoid so it is wired after the diagram above.

I also tested the battery and the voltage drops to less than 2 volts when I press the start button, guess it's bad. Charged it to higher than 12 volts a couple of days ago and now it reads around 11.

Will the bike start with kickstart even with a dead battery (if I manage to get spark of course)??
Click to expand...
Yes it should kick start even with a dead battery



Nuno
 

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