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February 11th, 2018, 06:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
I have lots of videos about ignition timing on my facebook page Gekko.

all you need is for the red, green and black wres to be connected and the orange to be dangling from the coil and NOT earthing as it is your kill wire.

on the '03 the two yellows went to the reg/rec and the blue to earth.

check the readings on your stator.
green to black is 165 red to black always goes wrong and is 2,750 or so.

Taffy
Thanks Taffy! I checked out your vids, and will use them when i have to set the ignition timing for sure.

Can you explain what you mean with:
green to black is 165 red to black always goes wrong and is 2,750 or so
?

What kind of unit are the numbers and where can i see them? i can't find anything about it?

Last edited by mxgekko; February 11th, 2018 at 07:23 PM.
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February 11th, 2018, 07:22 PM   #12
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A little update/question post

Still haven't got the wiring good but when we were working on it, the electric starter was starting but the sound wasn't good like it made full rounds if you get i mean:P.
The kickstarter wasn't coming back from itself and without a plug in the engine it still needed very much power to get it down, it didn't feel good so disassembled the engine and removed the big lid behind the kickstarter to see whats going on.
What stood out was when i cut through the tyrep (see picture) that was holding the decrompressing lever down (seller of the bike said i needed to stay that way), the kickstarter was feeling normal again when i pushed it down.

So a few questions :
- Does the lever need to be held down with a tyrep? My Thought is to just connect it
with a cable to the decompression lever on the cilinder head upper part..

- Does it matter that the kickstarter doesnt come back via a spring? i think it is missing but if i want to place one i need to dissemble the clutch what i think is not that easy work.

- You guys name rectifier/regulator and rectifier but are those 2 different parts? if so, does anyone have a picture of the difference so i can see (i dont get it with the wiring diagramm)

- The magnet in my flywheel is damaged, is that a problem? see picture

- What is the difference of the 2 yellow wires coming out of my generator? i tried to follow the wires but cant see where they are going (see picture).



Found some readings on parts:
Cilinder head upper part: 200228
Flywheel: 101 801 05 C2
Generator: C4
on the lid Lid on right side under the oil sight glass: 220 070

Big thanks in advance
Attached Thumbnails
SEM ICU10 + ingition colors??-20180210_142141.jpg   SEM ICU10 + ingition colors??-20180210_142410.jpg   SEM ICU10 + ingition colors??-20180211_235332.jpg   SEM ICU10 + ingition colors??-20180211_235405.jpg   SEM ICU10 + ingition colors??-20180211_235438.jpg  

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February 11th, 2018, 11:26 PM   #13
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too many questions!

flywheel magnets loose. they last many years like that so don't worry! loctite also make a special 'magnet glue' called 326.

someone has changed the red wire to a square female. it should have been a round female still. why?

the two yellows are the same. it doesn't matter.

the 2750 and the 165 are the ohms reading you should get with a multimeter going between the green and black and then the res and black.

I always remove the kistart and manual decomps and do a proper job of getting the camshaft AUTO decomp working.

Taffy
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February 12th, 2018, 12:38 AM   #14
ede
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Hi,

I attached a picture where you can see what the wiring diagram means with:
  • regulator/rectifier
  • regulator
  • ground contact star ring

You can also count the number of contact pins to figure it out.

Regards,
Ede
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February 12th, 2018, 09:22 AM   #15
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thanks guys! sorry for all the questions but you are really helping me with it!!

Taffy:
About why they changed the red to a square one i don't know, it does fit with the square red one on the ignition where it should.

good thing that there is no difference in the yellow wires, i only have 1 yellow one coming from my regulator/rectifier so 1 will remain dangling from the generator.

i will measure the stator, hope it matches the values you posted.

About the decrompression lever still don't understand it, is it best to tyrep it like it was or install it with a cable?
(those are the 2 options i know)


Ede:
When i look at the picture, i think i dont have a regulator or the ground contact star ring.

The only have the ignition OCU10 and a regulator/rectifier SH721AA between the buttons on the steer and the stator, thats the reason i can't figure out the wiring diagramm to connect it the right way.

the ground contact star ring is that really needed? i can use a bare/blank steel piece on the frame to connect the ground wires on too right??
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February 12th, 2018, 10:48 AM   #16
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just get rid of the kickstart and the manual levers. just use the auto decomp on the camshaft. out of sight and automatic.

this is the best way.

taffy
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February 12th, 2018, 04:53 PM   #17
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Something We should all do is to check all wiring for voltages AC DC and ohms write it down for the future. And yes I know this might not help you if ignition system is different from the original but it won’t hurt at least it will give a starting point. Of coarse do it before You have a problem. Life will be easier. If Your lazy then good luck to You. Also if You’re selling the bike with that paper work I’d think it would be a plus......
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Last edited by Rainerio; February 12th, 2018 at 08:25 PM.
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February 13th, 2018, 04:17 AM   #18
ede
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mxgekko:
You don't need the ground contact star ring - when your bike is somehow a 2003/2002/2001 model, I thought it will be there. Just mentioned it to help you. You can connect to ground they way you like - it just needs to work

Your rectifier seems to be a newer model. The connector is different. Research and make sure it can handle the power of your electrical system (I guess it's able to handle the old SEM-unit). Change the connector if you don't like it - it's up to you.
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