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August 5th, 2005, 12:43 PM   #1
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Replace the SEM no more!

What's the latest scoop on the 'alternative means' of not having to replace my SEM on my bike every other year guys?

I've seen throughout this section of guys who rewind and rebuy the Stator/Flywheel bargain parts and I havn't yet been able to find an answer other than buying the same part (i've already done the Stator once) at 300 bucks each time.

I do admit the new stator makes the bike like new :P , but once the stator goes again, then what?

I'm sure no one wants an 02 FE 501 when they could have an 04-05 right?

Wonder what the dealer would give me towards a new one?

Any thoughts ?
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August 6th, 2005, 02:02 AM   #2
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ryan

welcome to UHE and keep it coming bud

i bought one over to the states during the force ride and gave it to splat as a gift for all the great things he did for me. it was brand new 'used' and i bid for it on the european e-bay. cost me £50 or $90. postage would be $15 but allow 3-weeks.

so start bidding; here

this is geared to all of europe and bikes and parts.

regards

Taffy
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August 6th, 2005, 12:15 PM   #3
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thanks for the tip on where to look.

Not sure where I'd be without the internet and sites like this to help me out.

It will be good to have a spare without paying a ton.
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August 6th, 2005, 02:46 PM   #4
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carbonone

I have a coil rewinder/electronics man working on one now out of the 6 stators i have replaced(only one being my own) the problem was with the charge coils if the bike runs a starter or even lights we should be able to use a inverter to powere the cdi/coil the guy has made the inverter now needs to dial in the voltage -using the genuine sem stator to charge the battery and signal the cdi- this guy has 40 years rewinding and the same in design and building electronis he makes a peak votage meter that most of the mc dealers over here use for trouble shooting so heres hoping
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August 6th, 2005, 08:20 PM   #5
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I will be on that list for one of those (as will most of the other guys here) as soon as that's sorted.

Thanks for the update and make sure to keep me posted...................
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August 10th, 2005, 06:24 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by nzberg
carbonone

I have a coil rewinder/electronics man working on one now out of the 6 stators i have replaced(only one being my own) the problem was with the charge coils if the bike runs a starter or even lights we should be able to use a inverter to powere the cdi/coil the guy has made the inverter now needs to dial in the voltage -using the genuine sem stator to charge the battery and signal the cdi- this guy has 40 years rewinding and the same in design and building electronis he makes a peak votage meter that most of the mc dealers over here use for trouble shooting so heres hoping
Great Idea !
Some Honda singles use said principle with great success.
Hope it comes to fruition.
Kind Regards,
Dale
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August 11th, 2005, 10:17 AM   #7
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In the late seventies I built a CDI for my moped which did not have a charging coil, and funnily, this CDI still used the points for triggering! The sparks were awesome. Instead of the charger coil a small mains transformer connected backwards was used, powered by the 6 Volt lighting coil. Only problem was that it blew the discharge capacitor after a while since the voltage got much higher than it was rated for. With some kind of voltage limiter perhaps the method would be useful on a Husa-berg whose SEM charger coils said bye bye. An inverter is indeed a good idea and could have advantages over a transformer as well as disadvantages. Another question is wether either method would change the ignition curve.
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August 11th, 2005, 11:49 AM   #8
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I hope your experiment works! If it does it would be a great help to us all.
I just called Penton Imports and they do not have a PVL that will work.
We found that all of the SEM stators for the electric start bikes are the same except for the wire ends. At least all of the ones that we've seen. We substitute part # 250.125.01 on the later model bikes and just switch the connectors over from the old stator. It costs $204.15 US. Expensive but less than the stator/flywheel assemblies shown in the later model parts books. KTM part # 580.31.002.050 should also work. $156.43 US retail.

A few general tips: Please check and make sure that any stator (old or new) has the proper amount of flywheel engagement. Closing the plug gap down to 0.5mm might extend stator life, but no proof. Keeping the stator clean and dry helps for sure. I know that fresh batteries (ones that would accept a charge) drastically improved Suzuki street bike stator life. You wouldn't believe what those little jewels used to cost and they went out all of the time. Always inspect the flywheel, we've seen them crack and come apart internally. I suspect that there are a lot of other ideas out there too.

Best of luck!
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August 12th, 2005, 10:02 AM   #9
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wow jackpot!
Now do the wires color's match from the new plug to the old one or is there a conversion I need to know. After doing my check of the stator (just to see how well its working ) I get nothing while its hot and 2 or so kohms when cold. I think my second one is now on its way out.

Which one of the two part numbers listed would be the best bet. or are they the same? Ive checked the flywheel and it looks fine with no signs of cracking so I think I'd be fine with just the stator.

Thanks a ton for leading me along the narrow wire.........
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August 12th, 2005, 03:20 PM   #10
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They've all had the same blue yellow yellow red green black. If you are confident with solder and heat shrink cut the wires close to the stator and retain the case grommet.
I test dynamic output, not resistance. I've had ohm readings show good on bad parts while output has never lied to me. The problem is that it's a matter of feel and experience, not a number. This is the best I can do to explain it; I use an old style analog meter and look for a nice hard tug on the needle to test the CPS or trigger coil (engine not running, kick start speed) while on a low ac range. The tugs should be in perfect synch. with crank rotation. I look for over 6v ac at kick speed and a nice linear voltage/RPM relationship with the engine running to test the power or source coil. The needle should do an excellent impression of a tachometer.
We've been using the Husaberg stator. Looking at the two side by side, I swear the KTM stator is identical. Just some minor wire differences.
Glad to help, good luck.
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