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September 20th, 2016, 11:23 AM   #1
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Still Blowing Bulbs w/ New Regulator 650

2008 FE 650

Hello,

Been trying to chase down electrical issue for last month. Came home one night to no lights on bike. Ok! Was moron and had hit the starter button when bike was running... (never did this on Berg before)... so maybe my stupidity did it. Fuse was also blown.

Had to run out to suburbs for headlight bulb but replaced them the next day... pop. All three went again after starting.

Was able to run tail light without fuse so had to kick start but light was very weak

Just installed new regulator. Wow! did the tail light shine brightly!

Ok... hoping that the regulator was the problem, but knowing Murphy's Law was more likely, I popped the second headlight bulb.

Started her up and lights looked great. Started revving her to higher and higher RPM's... and pop go both bulbs... but not the fuse!

So fixed the fuse blowing with the new regular but still blowing bulbs.

Running tail light will probably not be an option because it seem higher RPM's will blow it.

Anyone who has experienced this please do share! Don't want to help the light bulb share prices too much by buying so many bulbs!

Thank you for the help!

Some general information:
* Battery being charged at just over 13 volts with bike running.
* Tail light socket has .01-02 volts at idle but is erratic with RPMS.
* Put electrical tape over any loose wire ends under headlight shield.
* Did not see any worn through wired in head light area. Connections to bulb did seem flimsy but solid. Sprayed them with WD40.
*As mentioned previously fuses is not blowing now with new regulator but bulbs still are.
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September 20th, 2016, 03:45 PM   #2
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I'm no husaberg mechanic, but I've been around for awhile and my first thought us you have a short somewhere.
easiest way to find a short is to run the bike or car or truck or sled at night and spray water on the coils and wires, if you see any sparks there's your short.
again no experience on husabergs, but I've don't thus more than once on sleds and came out shinning
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September 20th, 2016, 04:10 PM   #3
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Check the voltage at idle then at high rpm. If the voltage is ramping way above 13.8 volts you have an issue with your charging system. I am guessing your voltage is going wayyyyyyy up above 15vdc when you hit the rpm as per the bright lights when revving. New regulator might not be working correctly or you can have a short as noted prior. My guess is two wires are pinched together in your harness.
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September 20th, 2016, 10:24 PM   #4
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Wow! Never heard of that Canadian boy. Seems like it would be the most time efficient.

FE350, Yeah! I thought it would be that too but when I was revving the engine it was only charging the battery at 13 volts.

Of course my water pump seal just started leaking yesterday! Love when you get that feeling that things are breaking faster than you can fix them!

I'll try that water bottle trick tomorrow night. It will save me some bulbs!

Thank you guys!
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September 21st, 2016, 01:54 AM   #5
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Hi K2Berg,

Remember not to touch the halogen headlight globe with your skin or anything greasy. Causes premature globe failure due to contaminated glass heating up at a different rate and the inert gas inside the globe protecting the fillament leaking.

A short would explain the dull lights but shouldn't make globes fail. They would simply be supplied less voltage. If it's a short to ground, the fuse will blow. I too would've expected an overcharging condition. Maybe your starter doubled as a generator when it was engaged causing the initial failure!! Is it intermittent?

Research using a 'short light' to locate any shorted circuits if that fuse blows again. Relatively inexpensive to make with a blown fuse, wires and a globe & holder.

Good luck
Damo
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September 21st, 2016, 07:48 AM   #6
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I have not looked at the manual or schematic for your machine, but here is some info. Some machines and allot of them charge the battery with DC voltage and the headlight runs on AC right from the stator. With this being said, check the voltage directly at the bulb. You might find different voltage at the bulb. Are you getting 13vdc at the battery when running? Check your grounds and your wires at the battery as if the current is not flowing into the battery when running it can cause a ramp. Damo made a good point about the halogen light but I thought the tail light went as well, so if it did it would rule out the touching theory. Also the dim to super bright thing. I am thinking you have a short across two wires and not to ground, maybe at the regulator. I does not make sense that the lights go super bright and the voltage does not change??????? 13 volts should make your lights go to a normal brightness and not super bright?????
When checking for a short, you will need to check for resistance in your harness with it disconnected and check each wire for shorting to another. Sorts are not just to ground but can be shorted to power and each other. I am thinking you will need to check your harness from the stator to rectifier/regulator as per the bright light issue. Do you have the factory lights on the machine or are they aftermarket??
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September 21st, 2016, 09:23 AM   #7
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Thanks for heads up Damo but don't think this S2 tractor quality bulb is halogen. Once was pulled over in Montana because copper didn't think I even had a headlight! He wasn't too far off! Can barely see anything in pitch black Mother Nature...but fine for the well lit city.

Need to first just disconnect red wire to battery and check with light to see if there is a short... and then just start disconnecting everything.

Pain in the butt but must be done. Disconnected headlight yesterday but tail light still blew.


FE350 - Yes! When I connected voltmeter to battery and increased the RPMS it charged at 13/13.1 volts.

Just installed the new regulator on Monday right when it came in the mail. It stopped the fuse from blowing but not the bulbs... so guessing old regulator was part of the issue.

I did have a loose wire in the clip between the two fuses. Finally got tired of reaching in and pressing the wire to make a good contact when the start button did nothing in June. Crimped the wires better and no problem since.

That was the first place I thought may be the problem... but don't see any corrosion there.

Guess will know for sure when I start unplugging everything when checking for a short from the battery.

Tail light is definitely stock and the white headlight should be too since I bought it from a dealer but obviously a white shroud was not in 2008. Plus it doesn't seem as clean as I would expect the wiring to be from the factory.

Thanks again guys. Will try to have a go at it tonight.
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September 21st, 2016, 04:23 PM   #8
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What is the static voltage? When running at idle as well when not running? I don't think the 13.1 volts is blowing the lights. I am thinking your getting a spike when the bulbs blow as it does not make any sense? I am thinking you might have a short that is intermittent and when it shorts your voltage spikes? I am curious to how many amps are running through your circuit? You have my brain twisting lol. I am going to look at the schematic now and see if I cant find something?
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September 21st, 2016, 04:26 PM   #9
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Just though of something. If you are blowing the bulbs when you hit the starter button then your starter is pulling through the light circuit. This would make the bulbs as a fuse and they can not hold that kind of draw. Check starting circuit and the repair you did to the fuse area. You might be pulling on the wrong circuit?? Just a thought. Might not be a spike in voltage but a current draw through the lights.
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September 21st, 2016, 09:24 PM   #10
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FE350 -

Before I changed the regulator I had to leave the fuse out or the battery would be drained.

With new regulator the battery now stays around 12.85 volts when I stop.

Was going to change brake pads, do values, and do some chasing of this short this afternoon but went to help someone else out.

When I came home I did disconnect my battery to use a test light. It lit up when grounded to the engine but not when used to connect positive wire and battery. Will try it again tomorrow morning if time allows.

I actually wiggled those wires tonight to see if they were loose. Think I will disconnect battery and connect with test light then wiggle each with to see if the issue is here.

The headlight is disconnected so since the taillight still blew possibly eliminated it.

Could be the handle bar light control. I started changing the settings last month after never touching it besides by accident.

I will check the amps also tomorrow.

At idle both lights were fine... until I revved up the engine.

Fingers crossed it becomes black and white tomorrow/whenever I get time to try tracing it.

Thanks again!
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