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September 22nd, 2016, 07:42 AM   #11
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Could be the handle bar light control
if it's the euro style "do everything" type: i never had luck getting them to last. i use a simple toggle on mine and i've got a brand new oem switch still in the box (and it will stay there).
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September 22nd, 2016, 09:22 PM   #12
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Well I disconnected positive cable from battery and clipped the test light to the loose positive wire and touched the positive battery terminal with the light. It didn't light!

To test the light I attached the clip to the starter frame and touched the positive terminal. It lit up.

According to this there is no short. Now that makes it more confusing!

I reattached the headlight clip to the harness and then checked again with the test light via the disconnected positive cable and terminal.

Then I checked voltage of the headlight bulb socket to see the volts running through. It was difficult to check with the engine running but it stayed the same...basically zero.

Guess I need to play with the light switch and see if there is any corrosion.

This is perplexing why the light bulbs would be blowing.

Anymore leads would be great appreciated.
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September 22nd, 2016, 09:28 PM   #13
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Ned37 - Yup! It is the stock one. I saw that some people had problems with it.

When this all started I sprayed WD-40 in the cracks of the on/off/high beam switch. Need to do it for the turn signal switch.

I am surprised it did not show up as a short. I do not have a dead or good headlight bulb in... so maybe the circuit isn't complete.

(My previous post was done before I read yours.)

Than you.
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September 23rd, 2016, 12:21 PM   #14
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Sacrificed another tail light bulb!

The one I took out literally exploded! Had to big holes in it with the glass pieces sitting under the bulb in that little well.

This last one shot the filament on to the bulb glass... and it just stuck there!

Well... battery is now well charged and starting on the "button" is super easy... just need to find this gremlin!

Spoke with Rick - OffRoad Boss- today when ordering parts and he said it cold be one of the turn signal connections. Since I disconnected the headlight in a test it should not be my issue but it may help someone else chasing this gremlin when it appears.

May have new water pump seal, brakes, sprockets and chain on before I catch this little electrical devil!
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September 23rd, 2016, 12:38 PM   #15
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FWIW

K just to clarify, You are using a test light to check for a short???? A short is not only a wire grounding but also a wire pinched to another wire. So for instance a high beam wire and low beam wire touching each other would be a short. Anything that is removing the circuit from the length it runs can be a short.

Short to ground
short to power
short to anything in the circuit.

I am thinking the wire to the headlight and tail light are on the same circuit. the circuit is shorting to a high amperage/currant circuit such as the starter and when a load happens it is blowing the lights. I would check the rectifier/regulator circuit as it might be shorting and supplying way to much amperage Thus using the bulbs in a way a fuse would be used, the resistance of the bulbs can not handle the high currant and then it blows the bulbs as it would a fuse.
You need to use a ohm meter and check each wire from one end to the other and then check the headlight or tail light and test other wires to see if you have a short to the other wire. undo every connector you can find and test each circuit, so take the meter and go from one pin on the connector to the pin besides it and so on until you find the short. Disconnect all ground wires as well the battery and see if the ground is shorting to anything as well. The switch might be the issue as high and low might be coming on at once and then back feeding to the tail light.
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September 27th, 2016, 11:40 PM   #16
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FE350 - Yes! I disconnected the red wire and clipped the test light to it. Then I touch the light to the positive battery terminal. It should light up if there is a short.

Thanks for the direction. Hopefully I get a chance tomorrow to do some more gremlin chasing. Haven't had time and wanted to organize a way to search for it.

Just changed both sets of brake pads and more parts are coming in... hoping I figure this out before I get everything else done!
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September 28th, 2016, 12:00 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=K2Berg;174870]FE350 - Yes! I disconnected the red wire and clipped the test light to it. Then I touch the light to the positive battery terminal. It should light up if there is a short.

This would only light if the short was to ground and we know this is not the problem as your fuse is holding. I am thinking your short is to another circuit such as the stator and or regulator/rectifier prior regulating the voltage direct from the stator, possibly AC current??. If you have two wires shorting together such as this, a test light will tell nothing what so ever and if this is a intermittent short than even worse to find.
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