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January 16th, 2016, 03:48 AM   #1
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New player in the SEM replacement?

I came across this
Products for Motorcycle 2001 Husaberg FE 650 E Euro | RMSTATOR.COM

Made in Quebec Canada
Price seems good. Has anyone tried one?
Thanks from tourist, FE350 and Damo W
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January 20th, 2016, 04:17 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Kayeffess View Post
I came across this
Products for Motorcycle 2001 Husaberg FE 650 E Euro | RMSTATOR.COM

Made in Quebec Canada
Price seems good. Has anyone tried one?

Hi All, Sparks here, yes I'm still here, still doing the SEM winding thing.

Hi Kay, looks to me like an Electrex stator to me.

Regards

Sparks.
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January 20th, 2016, 05:17 AM   #3
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I have a used electrex stator for sale, very good condition hardly used.
Reasonable price.

PM for info
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January 22nd, 2016, 01:15 AM   #4
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In a way I recommend the electrex. they fail quickly, just as quick as the OEM SEM perhaps did back in 2003 and they do knock out the coils as has been said so many times but they are very cheap and you can get through two to my SEM one.

I don't know how much their Zenor Diode costs (to balance the cost equation here) so perhaps that ought to be added in.

I've been here 15 years and I don't recall anyone else here saying that they have used/did use/ have seen one used a flashing timing light? a 'strobe light'?

electrex don't even give you a timing mark and for the first 5 years owners were fitting them and putting them in the middle of their adjustment slot.

it was only when I got hold of one that I found out that they have to be retarded as far as is possible. but electrex NEVER said where it had to go? what kind of company is that????

more recently, and no I DON'T KNOW WHY, I have found the correct timing to be 1mm from the fully retarded point of the adjustment.

FAILURE
the reason all these stators fail is damp. they all get wet. and that I'm afraid is up to the owners. I have always advocated siliconing up the cover to the engine, the top of the wiring tube, the tube into the rubber bung, the bung in the cover.

but even that isn't enough.....

if when you change the oil you split the wiring tube you must replace it strraight away!!!! and that is the owner again isn't it!

lastly, I controversially drilled at the back of the crankcase years ago and was always delighted with the results. logic said that water would go up and in but I felt it worked as long as everything else was done? I also vasoline'd the stator you waterprooof it a little.

what was everyone else's opinion on the above two "controversial" ideas? Vaso and drilling a hole?

regards

Taffy
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January 22nd, 2016, 02:25 AM   #5
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Hi

It looks cool, but also very similar to electrex, can you ask if it's the same ?

Also how they advice how to set up timing, since it doesn't have the timing mark ?

Is there are candidate for a review ?


ZAGA
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January 22nd, 2016, 02:32 AM   #6
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I contacted the company regarding this stator. They replied saying that it was one Of their products. I also asked if it had been field tested with a sems ignition ... To which I received no response. I agree that it looks like an electrex unit. Perhaps they are re reselling. They do manufacture stators in house. I suppose the only real way to know is to order on end compare it and send it back if it is.
I personally don't need one at this point as I think I have 1 fresh rewind and 3 good stators in my workshop.
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Last edited by Kayeffess; January 22nd, 2016 at 02:34 AM.
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January 22nd, 2016, 08:56 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
In a way I recommend the electrex. they fail quickly, just as quick as the OEM SEM perhaps did back in 2003 and they do knock out the coils as has been said so many times but they are very cheap and you can get through two to my SEM one.

I don't know how much their Zenor Diode costs (to balance the cost equation here) so perhaps that ought to be added in.

I've been here 15 years and I don't recall anyone else here saying that they have used/did use/ have seen one used a flashing timing light? a 'strobe light'?

electrex don't even give you a timing mark and for the first 5 years owners were fitting them and putting them in the middle of their adjustment slot.

it was only when I got hold of one that I found out that they have to be retarded as far as is possible. but electrex NEVER said where it had to go? what kind of company is that????

more recently, and no I DON'T KNOW WHY, I have found the correct timing to be 1mm from the fully retarded point of the adjustment.

FAILURE
the reason all these stators fail is damp. they all get wet. and that I'm afraid is up to the owners. I have always advocated siliconing up the cover to the engine, the top of the wiring tube, the tube into the rubber bung, the bung in the cover.

but even that isn't enough.....

if when you change the oil you split the wiring tube you must replace it strraight away!!!! and that is the owner again isn't it!

lastly, I controversially drilled at the back of the crankcase years ago and was always delighted with the results. logic said that water would go up and in but I felt it worked as long as everything else was done? I also vasoline'd the stator you waterprooof it a little.

what was everyone else's opinion on the above two "controversial" ideas? Vaso and drilling a hole?

regards

Taffy
I can attest to dampness probably being one of if not the main reason for a SEM stator failure. On my 01 the stator went out within a few years. I remember starting it one time and bubbles started coming out of the stator cavity. I took the cover off and it was full of water. From washing it no doubt because I only ride in the desert. I think that when water gets inside the SEM stator plastic cover it wrecks havoc on it. So yeah, keep that bugger dry at all costs.
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January 26th, 2016, 01:18 PM   #8
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I suppose I was the first sucker here.

I saw them on ebay and went to their web site. SEM Direct Replacement Stator Husaberg 1999-2003, Husvarna & Vertimati (some models) European Models - English | RMSTATOR.COM

They give the resistance values for the stator.
Wire to wire resistance:
Alternator: = 0.4ohms +/-20%
Pickup: = 30ohms =+/-20%
Source: 1295ohms =+/-20%

Now that 1295 ohm figure concerned me. I contacted them and told them that the OEM needs to be ~3000 ohm. Is their's going to work? They replied with a standard "with our improved engineering, blah blah blah, it will work great.

They had a 15% off deal for Canada's Boxing day so I decided to buy one. I thought I would then have the SEM rewound, and have a good spare.

When it arrived the box says "Made in China" right on it. I know most everything is made in China now, I guess I just thought that maybe a stator company would wind their own.

First off I noticed that there are many more arms, or bobbins on their stator. On the charge side it has 6 instead of the 4 on the SEM, and nearly 2 to 1 for the alternator side.

As Taffy said there is no timing mark on it. I lined it up with the old one and got a close idea where it should be. I installed it, and tried to fire it up. On the starter, it would pop and backfire but not start. Kicking it, it would kickback violently and about launch me. I did get it to start, but VERY rough running, lots of backfiring. Couldn't rev it 1/4 throttle without it backfiring so bad it would start to die. I tried the full range of adjustment and it never got any better.

I have a timing light, but it is not adjustable, so finding the mark in the little window didn't work. It was way off.

It damaged my engine from all the kickbacks. The sprague clutch went from working great, to now just spinning most of the time. Will have to pull the clover one more time now!

I put the SEM back in it, and it fired right up and just purrs. No backfiring, no kickbacks, it just starts right up and runs smooth.

RMstator had me return it to them to check out, but I am doubtful it is going to work. When I get it back I will give it one chance. If I get the same backfiring monster, it is going back for a refund.

I asked them about the Electrex, which looks identical to theirs. (Both made in the same shop in China I am sure) Electrex shows a 98 and earlier stator with roughly the same resistance as this one. But Electrex does have one for 99-2003 that looks identical, but seems to have the right resistance. They had no comment on that.

I'll reply again once I get it back and see how it all shakes out.
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January 26th, 2016, 02:03 PM   #9
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Anyone tried running the sems in oil ?

My kokusan loves it
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January 26th, 2016, 02:08 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by GWS1 View Post
As Taffy said there is no timing mark on it. I lined it up with the old one and got a close idea where it should be.
really?

so did you try it how I said?

Taffy
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