New bike, need some help

Beave945 · August 9th, 2015, 07:49 AM

I just bought a 2004 FS650. I was smiling from ear to ear as I was leaving the dealer, I was impressed with the torque this thing has! I had a fun 45 minute ride home but as I got into town the bike died when I pulled up to a stop sign. Battery was dead. Thought maybe the dealer just didn't charge it. Got it home and put it on the charger. Went to fire it up the next day and the starter just free spins. Got it started by pulling in the decompression lever to get the starter moving. But again after an hour of riding the battery is dead again. Took it back to the dealer and they're telling me "that's just how the bike is designed". They tested the battery, it's good. Stator output is 13.4v, 12.3v with the headlight on. They also bench tested the starter and say it's good as well. It just doesn't make sense to me that a bike is only good for an hour before the battery is dead. Kicking over a 650 is not something I want to do all the time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

akshun · August 9th, 2015, 08:00 AM

I don't know what the rules are over where you are but If it was me, I would be asking the dealer for a replacement battery and see how that goes. It definitely isn't " how the bike is designed"!!!

Oregon Trail · August 9th, 2015, 08:31 AM

Isn't 12.3v with the head light on low? 12.3 volts would indicate it is only charging at 60% or so, each cell is 2.15 volts x 6 (12.9 volts). Can you ride it for a hour with the headlight off and check the battery? Is it the stock headlight or aftermarket? Can you post a picture of the headlight and taillight?

Battery Charging Tutorial | ChargingChargers.com

Beave945 · August 9th, 2015, 01:39 PM

The dealership still has the bike. They said they still have a few more tests to do, but the guy I was talking to didn't seem to confident in what he was telling me. When I get it back I can run some tests of my own. I believe it still has the stock headlight and taillight. And I forgot to mention, after about 15 - 20 min of riding the bike will start to die at idle and I have to keep the throttle cracked. Any ideas where to start looking would be appreciated.

Idle · August 9th, 2015, 07:03 PM

Pull the headlight bulb, read the fine print on it and report back with your findings.

It's supposed to be a 35/35 h-4 bulb. Maybe the previous owner switched it to a
55/65...
I've tried that bulb, and it draws too much amperage at idle and will stall the bike just like you described if you don't keep the revs up when you come to a stop.

Good Times? If so, I'm curious what you had to give for it. And...I would go get your bike back as soon as possible.
Perhaps you can get them to give you a helmet or at least some nice road race gloves.

You don't need them working on it, you can get it figured out.

Rainerio · August 9th, 2015, 07:30 PM

I'm learning all the time by reading these post and some of it Is that I'm old and need to learn new tricks. Thanks to all

FE350 · August 9th, 2015, 10:42 PM

FWIW,

The output of 12.3v is showing something wrong when charging for sure. Oregon is correct with the cell measurement. I instructed that each cell output of a good battery is 2.125 by theory.

Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 2.23 V for gelled electrolyte; 2.25 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 2.32 V for flooded cells.

Your charging should be at 13.92 for a lead acid battery. When loaded the voltage does not matter as much as amperage. You seem to have the voltage close to charge when no load but how about the amps? Amps are required under load and without your voltage will drop and continue to drop until the battery is dead and if the stator can not supply enough to keep it running without the battery then it will stop. I would question the shop if they told you it was ok to have 12.3v running with headlight on.

I would check the regulator/rectifier as most motorcycles charge at 14.4 and should maintain this at idle with the permanent magnetic generator system.