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August 24th, 2010, 03:22 PM   #1
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kill switch no kill

i recently purchased a 1992 350 the kill switch didn't work when i got it and after fiddling around with the wiring i have been unable to figure out how to get it to work i know the switch itself works but it is only plugged into one wire i tried grounding this wire out to the fork and the bike continued to run. after putting a volt meter on the wires i found that one wire reads 20 volts while every other wire reads zero volts. I tried to ground out this wire to the fork with no results. where should the wire that will ground out the spark come from, and is there a color i should look for. i measured the voltage on the wires in dc mode on the volt meter but i have come to understand since then that the power from the bike might be AC.

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Dave
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August 25th, 2010, 09:56 AM   #2
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Re: kill switch no kill

generally, the wire color for the kill switch is orange coming from the coil. it just shorts the coil to ground. if the engine is not well grounded to the frame, it won't work. make a jumper wire from the engine to the frame to make sure.
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August 25th, 2010, 04:11 PM   #3
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Re: kill switch no kill

thanks i will check that out tomorrow
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August 26th, 2010, 05:33 AM   #4
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Re: kill switch no kill

I recently put a new stator in.
Everything worked fine except the back brake light stayed on / no horn & no kill switch and wouldn't turn off at the ignition (had to stall it to stop)!!

1/ Brake light - last time I rode it before the stator went was at an enduro - fell off loads as always and the bark busters shifted - just touching the handlebar break lever - enough to trigger the lamp.

2/ Kill switch & ignition switch - orange wire under the tank was not connected - all that mess of wires at the coil / rectifier or whatever it is - undo and re join all of those - often get dirty & the connections become "dry". Seems strange that if the orange wire wasn't connected the bike still ran - anyway that was the case.

3/ Horn - same as above - red & white wire though I believe.

Point is I assumed it was one electrical problem but turned out to be 3no. differing issues. 12v circuits really need to be kept clean. Did jumper wires as Ned stated to no avail as even with a wiring diagram, I still didn't really understand what was going on.

Cant do any harm just to re-connect all bullet / bayonet fittings.
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